GW's Motorized
Well-Known Member
You could also use a bit of wax or clay if you take the head off. I used solder because I have a single piece jug
You could also use a bit of wax or clay if you take the head off. I used solder because I have a single piece jug
Ehhh I'll just run it, I've got almost everything on nowYou could also use a bit of wax or clay if you take the head off. I used solder because I have a single piece jug
Just know if it is too tight you have a risk of the piston slapping the headEhhh I'll just run it, I've got almost everything on now
You need thicker solder, it's only .8.
Yeah, from the look of your pictures, looks like over 2mm. You need some modeling clay to measure it accurately.It doesn't squish
I lost on you "on a piece of glass tape"Account for the "stretching" effect of the piston in motion, if you're running an extremely high RPM build you should probably go on the safer side of a larger squish gap just for longevity but if you're trying to tighten the squish gap then simply take the top piece of the head and sand it down on some 500 grit than 1,200 grit on a piece of glass tape the sandpaper down after you spray the glass down with water to help it stick and run it in slow circles that'll give you a better seal it'll also bring the squish gap down and up your compression if you have ceiling issues you can always use a squishable copper gasket
You use a flat glass plane because it is a perfectly flat surface then you take a spray bottle and you add some water onto the glass then tape the sandpaper down to keep it from shifting left and right if you keep the pressure light and even then when you are done you should have a near mirror finish on your head naturally a higher grit sandpaper will yield you a smoother finishI lost on you "on a piece of glass tape"
Use 500 and then 1200 grit to sand it down, and then to get a good even seal I can tape the sandpaper down and move the head over it in circles so the sanding is even, correct?