[PICTURE] WTF is this HOLE in my engine block???

Discussion in '2-Stroke Engines' started by stingray99, Sep 19, 2008.

  1. stingray99

    stingray99 New Member

    hey guys,

    i recently got a powerking PK-80 installed and i've put about 200 miles on it so far. when i first got the motor, there was no hole in the block. however, as i was checking the bolts this evening i noticed the hole and some exhaust spittle around the area originating from the hole.

    anyone else seen this issue or know what to do about it? i've been reading about the "quality fade" from the chinese manufacturers in recent years, but jeez!!!


    thanks y'all, -stingray

  2. fetor56

    fetor56 Guest

    Common problem particurly on cheaper kits but if it doesn't extend to the bore then it's up to u if it's worth worrying about.Some ppl fill the hole or have it welded but that's also up to u.
    Doesn't instill alot of confidence does it & personally i'de ask for a replacement barrel,a non airated barrel. :)
  3. arceeguy

    arceeguy Active Member

    It's just a cosmetic casting defect. Out of the three HT engines I have purchased, all of them had perfect chrome plated cylinder bores even though there were some cosmetic flaws like yours along with casting flash and generally rough external appearance. All of them run great with great compression and easy starting.
  4. stingray99

    stingray99 New Member

    thanks for the info guys -- yeah, the engine seems to run fine so it's good to know it's harmless.

    y'all think j-b weld might withstand the temps to plug it up? i don't have easy access to a welder or anything.

  5. BoltsMissing

    BoltsMissing Active Member

    That area of the cylinder is a minor heat trap to, that might be why there is a bit of exhaust spit.
    One way I found is to make a "heat sink".

    Think of this principle:
    You make a very hot cup of tea, stir in the sugar with a metal spoon, and leave the spoon in the cup with the hot tea. The heat will rise and warm the stem of the spoon and the cup will cool sooner than if had no spoon left in it.

    So, as it was explained to me this way, I have not had any problems with exhaust splatter since, see pic.
    Use a long allen key bolt,flat washer, 10m nut ( screw up to end), 3 spring washers and flat washer again on exhaust header plate. Tighten evenly both sides.
    Run the engine, and keep tightening slightly when hot, not over-tight so it don't snap. Then check for tightness when cold.

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Sep 19, 2008
  6. fetor56

    fetor56 Guest

    JB is worth a try & i think u understand now it's not a huge structural problem,merely cosmetic(provided the bore is intact)
    Hopefually someone will chime-in with JB results(or similar)
  7. they have JB weld that is "heavy duty" or something like that on it ... and its made for more machinery-tractor-mechanical sutff .. and one of the things is it can withstand higher temperatures ... same price as regular JB

    Last edited: Sep 19, 2008