BoltsMissing
Active Member
Already wrote what is being applied, it sticks like maple syrup to metal so when it's on a chain, it don't splash like oil or grease does.
Not sure what it's heat properties is like, seems ok though.
Siezed Clutch Gears & Plates
- Thread starter BoltsMissing
- Start date
Already wrote what is being applied, it sticks like maple syrup to metal so when it's on a chain, it don't splash like oil or grease does.
Not sure what it's heat properties is like, seems ok though.
How to use that tool
Boltsmissing ,
Before I have a crack getting off my fly wheel myself, and braking something.
How do you use that tool for getting off the flywheel??? I think I know how it comes off,,,, but I don't want to force it and find out the hard way.
Boltsmissing ,
Before I have a crack getting off my fly wheel myself, and braking something.
How do you use that tool for getting off the flywheel??? I think I know how it comes off,,,, but I don't want to force it and find out the hard way.
BoltsMissing
Active Member
Ok,
I assume you have that little black tool with all these threads on it, and a bolt that screws in the middle.
Undue that bolt in the middle and smear all the threads with oil. Dip it in oil if you have to, that way the theads get lube entirely in the grooves.
Screw in the large part of the tool with fingers only in the shaft where the large gear is, being very carefull not to cross-thread at the start. Work it in slowly back and forth as if ya trying to crack a combination lock, ever so carefull cos the threads on these thing are not the best and start thread, CAREFULLY.
Once you have the threads started, wind it in all the way as much as you can, wind it back out half way once, so the threads just work a bit and clear with that smear of oil, then wind it back in again finger tight, then nip it up with the spanner. No need to go too tight, just flick the spanner at the end so it tightens and ya feel it's firm and a bit more.
Wind in the small bolt in the middle of the tool, same thing with the thread process at the start, finger tight first, then tighten with the spanner that fits the small bolt. Get to firm and a bit more to.
Then, put a spanner on the large part of the black tool so ya hold down anti-clockwise, and screw in the small bolt with the other spanner clockwise, while holding the gear and stopping it from turning with the big spanner. Wind in the small bolt and you should notice the gear sliding out. It might make a crack sound at first, you'll know it ain't a broken crack sound, but the sound of the pully initially moving off the shaft. Then again it may not, it depends.
Keep winding in the small bolt till the large gear is off.
Make sense ?
I assume you have that little black tool with all these threads on it, and a bolt that screws in the middle.
Undue that bolt in the middle and smear all the threads with oil. Dip it in oil if you have to, that way the theads get lube entirely in the grooves.
Screw in the large part of the tool with fingers only in the shaft where the large gear is, being very carefull not to cross-thread at the start. Work it in slowly back and forth as if ya trying to crack a combination lock, ever so carefull cos the threads on these thing are not the best and start thread, CAREFULLY.
Once you have the threads started, wind it in all the way as much as you can, wind it back out half way once, so the threads just work a bit and clear with that smear of oil, then wind it back in again finger tight, then nip it up with the spanner. No need to go too tight, just flick the spanner at the end so it tightens and ya feel it's firm and a bit more.
Wind in the small bolt in the middle of the tool, same thing with the thread process at the start, finger tight first, then tighten with the spanner that fits the small bolt. Get to firm and a bit more to.
Then, put a spanner on the large part of the black tool so ya hold down anti-clockwise, and screw in the small bolt with the other spanner clockwise, while holding the gear and stopping it from turning with the big spanner. Wind in the small bolt and you should notice the gear sliding out. It might make a crack sound at first, you'll know it ain't a broken crack sound, but the sound of the pully initially moving off the shaft. Then again it may not, it depends.
Keep winding in the small bolt till the large gear is off.
Make sense ?
Last edited:
Yes make good sense
Hi Boltsmissing,
Thanks yes what you wrote makes good sense.
I thought that this was how it came off and I had a small go at it on Friday night, but I didn't want to put more pressure on it just in case I was missing something. I'm in no hurry. The kids and my wife are making sure of that! I spend about 10 mins working on my bike, and there's always some thing else around the house that needs to be done. Anyway thanks. I will try to do some pics for the group. This may have to wait as my eldest daughter is the only one of us who has a digital camera, and she has gone camping with some of our relations for a week.
Hi Boltsmissing,
Thanks yes what you wrote makes good sense.
I thought that this was how it came off and I had a small go at it on Friday night, but I didn't want to put more pressure on it just in case I was missing something. I'm in no hurry. The kids and my wife are making sure of that! I spend about 10 mins working on my bike, and there's always some thing else around the house that needs to be done. Anyway thanks. I will try to do some pics for the group. This may have to wait as my eldest daughter is the only one of us who has a digital camera, and she has gone camping with some of our relations for a week.
Thanks Boltsmissing
Thanks Boltsmissing for taking the time to replie and taking the time to explain. I put the new flywheel on Sunday. It's made a world of difference.
Those ball bearings that you also had trouble with, well that was my problem too. When I get our dig camera back I'll take pics of how to do it and I will also take some pics of the main shaft as well as I have a spare one. The thread on one end is a bit Shagged but I only needed the flywheel.
I found that instead of holding the tool with a spaner I use a quality pair of vise grips, much easer to keep it steady whilst tightening the bolt.
Thanks Boltsmissing for taking the time to replie and taking the time to explain. I put the new flywheel on Sunday. It's made a world of difference.
Those ball bearings that you also had trouble with, well that was my problem too. When I get our dig camera back I'll take pics of how to do it and I will also take some pics of the main shaft as well as I have a spare one. The thread on one end is a bit Shagged but I only needed the flywheel.
I found that instead of holding the tool with a spaner I use a quality pair of vise grips, much easer to keep it steady whilst tightening the bolt.
BoltsMissing
Active Member
Good to see that it worked out.
My mistake was I cleaned the original clutch plate with metho. and forgot about the tiny bearings. Thats when it seized after a test run. Fortunately I had a spare and the new clutch assembly has arrived, I'm not happy with the shaft, it's bent and I will fix it myself at a friends friend who has a lathe, along with some other things I want fixed, inlcuding the clutch handle pin.
On that there is a round circlip that pops off and say goodbye to the pin and spring. Well, I got news for HT Land, you don't put a circlip where there is a springloaded pin. You put a hole in the pin so a spilt pin and a washer fits and it stays in place. I hope I can get the last batch of split pins made locally, the HT Land ones might snap !
My mistake was I cleaned the original clutch plate with metho. and forgot about the tiny bearings. Thats when it seized after a test run. Fortunately I had a spare and the new clutch assembly has arrived, I'm not happy with the shaft, it's bent and I will fix it myself at a friends friend who has a lathe, along with some other things I want fixed, inlcuding the clutch handle pin.
On that there is a round circlip that pops off and say goodbye to the pin and spring. Well, I got news for HT Land, you don't put a circlip where there is a springloaded pin. You put a hole in the pin so a spilt pin and a washer fits and it stays in place. I hope I can get the last batch of split pins made locally, the HT Land ones might snap !
screaming emu
Member
Yo boltsmissing, I have had the same problem on one of my bikes that had only done around 900kms. It seems there has been a bad batch of those little bearings in the clutch wheel. I replaced my clutch wheel and have done another 500kms with no probs. Before it shat itself it was making a nocking noise so it gave me some warning but had been to busy to tinker with it. Another building buddy of mine has had one go on him from the same batch after only 500kms. I have had the same problem with cheap clutch bearing on the other side as well. When you feel how light the metal is compared to the existing ones its no wonder they are getting flattened. The lattest batch of 48cc motors have not incured any of these problems as yet. I have checked the single bearing and its back to a decent quality.
BoltsMissing
Active Member
G'Day emu, need to check everything it seems. If a bearing scratches with a file, it's no good.
But then again, don't use a file made in the same place they make the bearings !
All the Best
Boltsm
But then again, don't use a file made in the same place they make the bearings !
All the Best
Boltsm
