Steve Best
Well-Known Member
Actually wider chain does not "divide wear to last longer", and "last" (life) is not an issue if the figures I read are correct.
With perfect lubrication a 40, 41, 0r 410 chain will last over 15000 hrs (300,000 miles!) under these loads, so life is not an issue. Even with poor lube, any of these chains should last longer than the bike (+10,000 miles). So quality of the chain, lube and cleanliness from grit are the issues, not the chain size, because even the multi-speed chain will last over 10,000 miles and stand the load.
So, we have all seen worn and broken chain. What did it?
Worn is easy. No lube, rust and grit. Especially on cheap chain. Many 50 year old bikes are still using their original chain. Let it get rusty and try riding on it and we have a perfect grinding compound in the links.
I have broken several motorcycle chains over the years. It was never pure torque that broke them. Something entered the equation to leverage an over torque or shock load to the links. A rock or stick under the sprocket, or a misalignment that stressed the chain, or a loose chain that jumped a tooth. Would the next size stronger chain have survived that event? Maybe, but better to solve the problem and use the lightest chain possible.
What about sprocket wear? Surely a wider chain will be easier on the sprocket teeth?
Yes, but only if the sprocket teeth are the same width to match, and it doesn't matter because sprocket life of the thinnest is over the 10,000 mile life of a bike also. If you are running 1/4" wide chain on 1/8" wide sprockets there is no gain and possibly a loss of sideplate guiding and stability and possible pin bending.
Conclusion?
1) Fit good quality chain
2) to the sprocket width,
3) make sure you have enough strength for the torque plus shock loads (about 3x, all 1/2" chains do)
4) line everything up true
5) minimal (but existing!) slack
6) keep the chain clean, lubed and rust free
Any 1/2" chain will run the life of the bike.
Steve
With perfect lubrication a 40, 41, 0r 410 chain will last over 15000 hrs (300,000 miles!) under these loads, so life is not an issue. Even with poor lube, any of these chains should last longer than the bike (+10,000 miles). So quality of the chain, lube and cleanliness from grit are the issues, not the chain size, because even the multi-speed chain will last over 10,000 miles and stand the load.
So, we have all seen worn and broken chain. What did it?
Worn is easy. No lube, rust and grit. Especially on cheap chain. Many 50 year old bikes are still using their original chain. Let it get rusty and try riding on it and we have a perfect grinding compound in the links.
I have broken several motorcycle chains over the years. It was never pure torque that broke them. Something entered the equation to leverage an over torque or shock load to the links. A rock or stick under the sprocket, or a misalignment that stressed the chain, or a loose chain that jumped a tooth. Would the next size stronger chain have survived that event? Maybe, but better to solve the problem and use the lightest chain possible.
What about sprocket wear? Surely a wider chain will be easier on the sprocket teeth?
Yes, but only if the sprocket teeth are the same width to match, and it doesn't matter because sprocket life of the thinnest is over the 10,000 mile life of a bike also. If you are running 1/4" wide chain on 1/8" wide sprockets there is no gain and possibly a loss of sideplate guiding and stability and possible pin bending.
Conclusion?
1) Fit good quality chain
2) to the sprocket width,
3) make sure you have enough strength for the torque plus shock loads (about 3x, all 1/2" chains do)
4) line everything up true
5) minimal (but existing!) slack
6) keep the chain clean, lubed and rust free
Any 1/2" chain will run the life of the bike.
Steve
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