oldpete,
I point out inconsistencies and I'm "aggressive" and have an "attitude" Yes pete you and I do have a history on the issue of the Staton Hub and weather or not it builds a Dishless wheel (for anyone interested see these threads)
http://www.motoredbikes.com/showthread.php?t=6497&page=4
http://www.motoredbikes.com/showthread.php?t=6835&page=4
Now once again lets look at the evolution of your rear wheel and the inconsistencies over the past 6 months
7-19-07 Thread Where to buy 12 guage spokes: 14g DT spokes 4 cross, very little dish, 2mm different spoke length
8-30-07 DT spokes now built with 267mm both sides
9-1-07 DT 14g straight 4 cross total runout in both directions .005 GEBE drive ring attached centered to a total runout of .007
10-29-07 Thread How to climb hills with original GEBE 14g WHEELSMITH SPOKES
11-14-07 Thread Rear Wheel Woes 14g WHEELSMITH SPOKES
12-2-07 Thread 12g spokes or mag wheel 14g WHEELSMITH SPOKES 266 4cross
1-30-08 Thread (this one)14g DT spokes 267mm 4 cross .007 total runout
Number of wheel sets built by old pete 8-30-07 18 claimed 1-31-08 14 claimed
For some reason pete you seem to think that the critical factor to building a dishess wheel is the length of the spokes. This is not so, the critical factor in building a disless wheel is that the distance of both left and right hub flange is equal distance from the center of the hub. You indicated above that you tried to vary the cross to get spokes of equal length. Even if you had been able to get equal length spokes this way you havent changed the dish of the wheel. The easiest way to make any hub dishless is make the overall spacing wider and the additional space has to added to the non dished side of the hub. If you make the hub wider though you also have to spread and realign your frame or fork. Depending upon material this can be a easy job (Steel) to a rather difficult /not recommended job (Alum) to virtually impossible (titanium or carbon fiber)
As to how you go about dishing a wheel using a straight edge and the bike frame you've totally lost me there. And using washers to center a wheel after its been built and properly dished, once again I'm affraid you've lost me.
As to using BOB axle nuts, What do axle nuts used to hold the wheel into the bike have to do with wheel dish and proper spoke length? If you don't have enough engaged threads it seems to me that you need a longer axle not adjust the dish of your wheel. Now I admit that as i understand the Staton Rear Hub getting a longer rear axle may be very difficult and may even require having one custom built for you.
12g Spoke Source? I've always bought DT 12g spokes from a company called Paceline, but they are a Wholesaler that I believe sells only to bike shops and businesses in the bike industry thru independent outside sales reps. They also only carried 12g spokes sporadically. The rep that serviced my shop knew I was interested in 12g spokes and always let me know when they had them in stock. A retail source that you could try not far from you would be Tony at Chicago Bikes in Newport Beach, CA In years past he has carried DT12g spokes. You should expect to pay $1.00+ ea. for them from him if he has them in stock. Also be advised Tony can be very difficul to deal with at times. You also may want to try checking sources in England and Europe for DT 12g spokes as I believe they are used quite offten in city bikes and touting bikes there.
10g Spoke Source? I don't have a clue? I've never felt the need to build a wheel using them.
I feel no particular need to teach how to build wheels. There have been several links posted here to Sheldon Brown's Wheelbuilding Papers and he does a far better job of explaining how to go about lacing and building your first set of wheels than I could.
Once again I've said enough on these issues. The members who read these threads can come to their own conclusions now as to who is agressive and has an attitude and who knows what they are talking about.
ocscully
Trying to get spoke tension equal on deeply dished rear wheels I did a couple 2 cross on one side and 4 cross on the other. Seemed to work OK on a pedal bike.
