Stage 3 Simple Heavy Duty Clutch Solution

I think a little higher would be good as it has its own specific problems never addressed or tested becuase the torque. So as the test conducted by grubee is of a smooth rpm it does'nt have a gerking torque test conducted. So it does and it doesnt kinda.
I would also tend to say no because of the low end torque. As I need low end torque I have it tuned there.
So as the rpms climb to about 6K the sound and torque smooth out from bwaw bwaw to vrooom. So at the beginning of the run and after a shift change I have the need and ability to climb into higher rpm making the need to shift.
If I use 80 90 weight gear oil it should stop the grenade tranny from from blowing and stop the chop chop clutch stuff.
If you notice in the cheap video I have thats described as video with blown out exhaust is sitting there at idle speed so in-fact the engage time might be ok as far as engagement.
I you can picture a torqued out motor pushing open the clutch and letting it compress all in a single stroke or rotation whatever you call it.
I was just trying to clarify the reason there was old information that wasnt mathcing my situation.
Heres the video with exhaust leaks and back blown out of the exhaust.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7BKZrQWDw2Y
I had some two other videos but the sound wasnt on. I was rather busy trying to figure why the chop chop problem was going on. Luckily I only strecthed some cheap chains.
 
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What I would like to see is the need to lower the tension of the springs from the wet tranny/clutch. The reason being the lower rpm the chop chop problem the less reverse stress on the motor from the torque. So if the clutch engages at a higher rpm then 3000 at this point the motors in the strongest powerband and could cause some damage.
Another way of looking at it is the new excelleration power (torque) creates a push but not harnessed. So if I can harness the push with slippage from the wet clutch I wont push my engine to death.
it is a bomb yoo but you need to harness it.
 
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The mods you made to increase low end torque also got me thinking you may be going the wrong direction with the springs. I've always been taught that you want the clutch to come in right at peak torque, so if your mods have broadened (and lowered) the torque curve you may want the clutch to come in sooner (lower RPM) not later.
 
Yea other wise engine stress.
Also a smoother engagement is possable by lightly greasing the clutch pins.
Someone came up with that one I read it around here.
 
So I think I'll take that a step further and place grease in the spring holes that are sealed by the bolt. So it will decrease the chance of the spring binding.
 
The stock exhaust is really technically better as it has the lip in the picture to create a complete seal.
In my last test the seal at the same place also had a leak besides the back blowing apart.
 

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