TIPS I learned the hard way

Discussion in 'Rack Mounted Engines' started by bamabikeguy, Mar 2, 2007.

  1. bamabikeguy

    bamabikeguy Active Member

    THIS comes into play on certain bike models, where a screwhead, in the frame of the back wheel gets in the way.

    Wal Mart Avalons, and the last three Huffy's I've built all had that pesky screw head that disallows tightening it down properly.

    On the rack, there really is a FRONT/REAR difference.
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    Notice the two nipples, which slide over the axle, are different, one is narrower.

    ALWAYS POINT THE NARROWER END TOWARD THE REAR OF THE BIKE.

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    If you don't have that bothersome screw, it doesn't matter, like on a single speed cruiser.

    But if you are going to assemble them for friends, get in the habit of aiming the narrow part to the back. You won't have to go back to square one when installing it.
     

  2. bamabikeguy

    bamabikeguy Active Member

    More emphasis of the TIP above

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    Another thing I do, not pictured (yet) is have my front strap installed before slipping the axle mount on, so when I tighten the axle nuts, I just push the mount forward and slip it onto the holes in the strap.



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    Well, here's a picture that sort of shows what I mean EXCEPT that was my Denver Setup, and I really had two straps holding that engine.
    It was just the handiest place to carry a spare strap.


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    FOR extra insurance, I put A LONG HEAVIEST DUTY ZIP TIE, through a hole in the strap and around my fender/frame support, just in case I hit a pothole and snap the front strap hole in a fluke accident.

    I don't have that pic, but the fluke happened ONCE, the mount slid backwards, pulling the throttle to full blast !!

    Better safe than sorry, and zip ties cost pennies.
     
  3. bamabikeguy

    bamabikeguy Active Member

    When I started assembling bikes for sale, I fashioned a VERY CRUDE measuring gap/gauge to check as I snapped the ring onto the spokes.

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    THE VERY BEST IDEA, if you are going to build bikes for others, is to have Dennis at GEBE send you one wheel with the ring pre-snapped on by him.

    Then you can make spacers
    , like I did with used animal syringes, using my grinder I made 4 "pretty close to perfect" devices.

    [​IMG]
     
  4. bamabikeguy

    bamabikeguy Active Member

    MUFFLERS KNOCK OFF 25% of the noise.

    MUFFLERS affect horsepower, my guesstemite is 10% less on the 25 cc engine.


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  5. bamabikeguy

    bamabikeguy Active Member

    I'll have pix later:

    This is about the plastic black cover, keeping it from cracking.

    Road conditions and/or potholes will jar you, the bike, the rack, and the "WEAKEST" spot is where the wingnut screw that holds the cover on.

    Yesterday, I took a ride down a recently graveled road, about a mile of bone shaking fun. The entire threaded rod broke off at the base, BUT NO CRACKING WHERE THE WING NUT HELD IT ON.

    I have spare threaded rod, so that's no big deal, but if you reinforce the cover, it won't ever crack, and if it DID on a long travel, it might slide over a fraction, interfere with the tension arm/tension arm slot in the cover.

    It's really simple-

    1. Put a layer or two of duct tape squares UNDER that wingnut hole, on the inside of the cover.

    2. Find a small rubber washer, and have that hold the cover on, under the regular washer and wingnut.

    My lesson was learned on the Denver trip, the SAME pothole that snapped my front brace. With the hairline crack under the wingnut, the cover slid slightly, and caused the tension arm to rub.

    I stopped, took the cover off, and at the bottom third of the tension arm slot, I whittled a little wider teardrop, so the tension arm bounced freeely.
     
  6. Hive

    Hive Guest

    What is the engine?

    Just curious. Looks like Z 2-cycle. I like the way the fuel cell sits upon top.

    Thanks.
     
  7. bamabikeguy

    bamabikeguy Active Member

    Yeah, I had 1 of the 40's, with the tank at the bottom, never quite liked it since I was familiar with the 25's.

    I "heard" there was a way to turn the 35/40 Tanaka's by 90 degrees and make those tanks upright, rather than under the engine, but know ZERO details.

    [​IMG]

    The 25 cc tank is 22 ounces, which carries me between 40-48 miles on average. I have also "heard" a search is on for a little bit larger tank.

    Dennis at GEBE has spoken about a setup where an auxillery tank can be installed (I think he mentioned a Whizzer "peanut" tank, mounted under the seat, feeding by tube into the engine fuel cell), which would increase the range of the 35/40 cc's, and if I was using the bigger engine, THAT would be an important addition....
     
  8. Hive

    Hive Guest

    Very good

    Yes, It is a Zenoah 2-stroke, as I thought. Lots of ooomph!

    Am guessing if it could push me up a hill, the Tanaka at 33CC should be even better. Now, will have to see if I can flip the tank.

    BTW, Revopower is about to market their in-the-wheel bike, which uses a tank that sits in the drink cage. I have not asked, but for fuel, this might be the ticket for some of us.

    Interesting bike out of Denver, but cannot freewheel it.

    www.revopower.com/
     
  9. Torques

    Torques Guest

    That looks like a pretty nasty system. Why would anyone want that much mass and junk inside the front wheel even with the limited performance it offers. 100 mpg? I don't like it.
     
  10. Hive

    Hive Guest

    I agree, but it is

    Still a fascinating machine. Originally designed in the 1920s, I think.

    I suppose if one is sure to be on a flat surface and not inclined to pedal, it might be the thing to have. We all know it will appeal to quite a few, if for no other reason than to "have one." It sure looks to be an easy install; just not for us.

    I like that fuel cell arrangement, however and emailed them for information.
     
  11. bamabikeguy

    bamabikeguy Active Member

    I've ordered my first 33 2 cycle. Did you get any info?

    My spare canisters are swiss doublelined steel, hold 25 oz. $17 each. Looks like that may be adaptable.
     
  12. Hive

    Hive Guest

    A COMMENT OR TWO

    Referring to the black gear cover: Take a stainless steel washer and Pliobond it to the case (you can do to both sides, if you feel it is necessary), using the wing nut to press firm.

    I never worried about centering the drive ring, as it self-centers when carefully a placed. I use WD-40 to lube and snap the drive ring on to the wheel.

    When I received the Tanaka 33 from GEBE, the clutch housing etc. was already installed so it rides vertical. Not difficult to change any of them, as the four bolts are squared. Was going to turn the housing on the Honda to vertical tank but checking th oil would have become a pain.

    I installed on a recumbent bike and will put up thread with pix when finished.

    I fabricated a new engine strap from aluminum stock I bought at Mills Fleet Farm (Home Depot etc) as I had cut my old one and sent the newer ones from GEBE to fellow who bought my Honda GX25 engine and new GEBE kit.

    Also fabricated a support for TREK shopping bag to ride just outside belt drive side.
     
  13. bamabikeguy

    bamabikeguy Active Member

    Hive- this interests me very much....

    I have those black saddlebags, bungied to the handlebar post, have always thought something could be done OPPOSITE the belt side, but your idea is probably conducive to mounting the saddle of a fully packed pony, from the left hand side every time.

    I was listening to a cowboy show in Oklahoma at sunrise on a Sunday morning (The Ranch House??) and people mount horses from the left because they can raise the right leg an average of 6-8 inches higher than the left leg.
     
  14. Hive

    Hive Guest

    Recumbent is

    Posted as new thread.
    [​IMG]
     
  15. Torques

    Torques Guest

    Wow, very nice, very nice.
     
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