Too much vibration.

That's a super solid setup ....
1. you fitted a extra frame-tube ... my setup has the same problem, that bent frame makes the engine sit lower...
2. Whole frame & engine mount did you make it yourself?
3. That exhaust bracket is super ....
 
I just went for a test drive on my2015 model Grubee Skyhawk and OMG that thing was smooth!!! Barley any vibration at all!! At any speed too. It seems like they finally started balancing cranks!!
 
Greeting to you in Indonesia! You can't get much further away than half way around the world.

The wood engine mount I made myself with hand power tools. As you mentioned, the engine seated too low against the pedal chain guard with the stock mounts. Not to mention the rear clamp is at the wrong angle for most bikes and fits like crap. Taking the time to make a wood mount was more an act of desperation. The side benefits were the integrated muffler mount and the elimination of the chain tensioner since the engine assembly is adjustable forward-back. The wood rod along the down tube is oak. Spruce would be too flexible. The angle of the wood rod is set to keep the carburetor level. The plywood on the sprocket side of the engine is 1/2" maple sold at Menards. The upper rear screw under the buckbar lever extends into the plywood. The plywood on the clutch side is 1/2" 4 ply pine and is held to the engine by (2) 10-24 bolts and tee nuts using the existing screw holes holding on the clutch cover. The factory rear mounting system is not used. Under the motor is a V shaped piece of pine that maintains the orientation of the engine when the screws are loose during chain adjustment. There is a couple of fancy mill cuts and some shimming to match the downtube, the diameter of the seat post, and clearance at the drive sprocket housing . The subframe is extended in the back to add bolts to clamp the frame and to reverse the pull of a clamp so as the clamp is tightened, the engine moves forward to adjust the chain. For safety in the event the wood rod would break, the muffler support would prevent the motor from being pulled to the left by the chain. In addition, there is a safety strap bolted to the engine that loosely wraps around the downtube. I would not mind making a batch of mounts and selling them; but I have not found a comfortable, affordable way of dealing with liability issues.
The rear engine mount is replaced by three existing screws; but since the load pulls the engine into the mount, it seems to be adequate.
I should go on to add that the wrist pin has been replaced with a lighter titanium pin from Juice Motor Supply; reducing vibration from a stock motor. With this motor build, I could ride all day without vibration related fatigue letting the wood mount absorb much of the remaining vibration.
Up until recently, the fastest this all steel bike would go is about 24 mph. With the iridium plug and the NT throttle cable sheath taped where it meets the carb, I'm going 30 mph. This makes a difference as to how often I am willing to take the lane going through town; increasing the usefulness of the bike. The added utility makes the wood subframe worth the investment and also more needed since now the engine is running at higher rpms.
 
I have often wondered about a top motor mount as many motorcycles when the top motor mount comes loose or breaks it vibrates like hell.
 
what people need to realize is that no matter what you do to dampen the vibration before it reaches your handlebars the vibrational forces at the crank are putting excess stress on the bearings which shortens their life. best to correct the problem at its source.
a big engine needs a head stay because even the best balance still produces considerable vibration. In a small engine the best balance produces little vibration. (read my vibration cure page on my site to fully understand why)
 
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Greeting to you in Indonesia! You can't get much further away than half way around the world.

The wood engine mount I made myself with hand power tools. As you mentioned, the engine seated too low against the pedal chain guard with the stock mounts. Not to mention the rear clamp is at the wrong angle for most bikes and fits like crap. Taking the time to make a wood mount was more an act of desperation. The side benefits were the integrated muffler mount and the elimination of the chain tensioner since the engine assembly is adjustable forward-back. The wood rod along the down tube is oak. Spruce would be too flexible. The angle of the wood rod is set to keep the carburetor level. The plywood on the sprocket side of the engine is 1/2" maple sold at Menards. The upper rear screw under the buckbar lever extends into the plywood. The plywood on the clutch side is 1/2" 4 ply pine and is held to the engine by (2) 10-24 bolts and tee nuts using the existing screw holes holding on the clutch cover. The factory rear mounting system is not used. Under the motor is a V shaped piece of pine that maintains the orientation of the engine when the screws are loose during chain adjustment. There is a couple of fancy mill cuts and some shimming to match the downtube, the diameter of the seat post, and clearance at the drive sprocket housing . The subframe is extended in the back to add bolts to clamp the frame and to reverse the pull of a clamp so as the clamp is tightened, the engine moves forward to adjust the chain. For safety in the event the wood rod would break, the muffler support would prevent the motor from being pulled to the left by the chain. In addition, there is a safety strap bolted to the engine that loosely wraps around the downtube. I would not mind making a batch of mounts and selling them; but I have not found a comfortable, affordable way of dealing with liability issues.
The rear engine mount is replaced by three existing screws; but since the load pulls the engine into the mount, it seems to be adequate.
I should go on to add that the wrist pin has been replaced with a lighter titanium pin from Juice Motor Supply; reducing vibration from a stock motor. With this motor build, I could ride all day without vibration related fatigue letting the wood mount absorb much of the remaining vibration.
Up until recently, the fastest this all steel bike would go is about 24 mph. With the iridium plug and the NT throttle cable sheath taped where it meets the carb, I'm going 30 mph. This makes a difference as to how often I am willing to take the lane going through town; increasing the usefulness of the bike. The added utility makes the wood subframe worth the investment and also more needed since now the engine is running at higher rpms.

Yeah it is a good place to live .... it seems I'm the only one who has a 2-stroke here ... they sell electric bikes only .... so it is special....

I like the looks and love the craftsmanship you put into this ..... hope I can follow suit.... tinkering is a virtue

I am making the aluminium extension block as per below picture.... hope it works..... so the rear mount is lined-up and the front also .... we will see if it works

but your one looks much better....

1465217920990-1869367349.jpg
 
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