Troubleshooting engine start fail

[Steve Best]

You are right, the roundish metal thing in the center is the magnet and the yellow thing with bars top and bottom are the coil.

You broke the rule about going slow preventing injury and damage.
You didn't need to cut the cover. If you had spark you didn't need to go there.
If you carefully drill the center of the bolt head off the cover would have come off. (NOW I tell you...)
Mag covers are $5 here in Canada, no great loss.

Yeah, clean the metal dust off, always a good idea. It is aluminum so no great danger to the magnet and coil. Everything in there looks fine, although I cannot see the timing. If you haven't had it apart since it last ran, timing should be fine.

Now go to post #9

 

[Nahom]

What about the thing which it threads through that actually spins? whats that called? Is it bad that the nut around the magneto is rusted?

 

[Nahom]

You are right, the roundish metal thing in the center is the magnet and the yellow thing with bars top and bottom are the coil.

You broke the rule about going slow preventing injury and damage.
You didn't need to cut the cover. If you had spark you didn't need to go there.
If you carefully drill the center of the bolt head off the cover would have come off. (NOW I tell you...)
Mag covers are $5 here in Canada, no great loss.

Yeah, clean the metal dust off, always a good idea. It is aluminum so no great danger to the magnet and coil. Everything in there looks fine, although I cannot see the timing. If you haven't had it apart since it last ran, timing should be fine.

Now go to post #9

Ok so I've never taken the rotor off if the rotor is the metal thing that spins and the thing which the magnet is threaded through. So I will assume timing is ok.
The compression seems fine - when disengaged only the plate spins and gears don't turn and easy to wheel. The rotor also doesn't turn.
When engaged- rotor turns and both gears turn as well as the clutch plate.
Now I will try the carb

 

[Nahom]

This is the idle screw?

And this is the screw at the bottom that you meant?

Fuel dribbled out of that yes. What does that indicate? flooding?

 

[Nahom]

You can see the droplet coming off it and and that the left side of the engine underneath where that screw was is wet with fuel

 

[Nahom]

You are right, the roundish metal thing in the center is the magnet and the yellow thing with bars top and bottom are the coil.

You broke the rule about going slow preventing injury and damage.
You didn't need to cut the cover. If you had spark you didn't need to go there.
If you carefully drill the center of the bolt head off the cover would have come off. (NOW I tell you...)
Mag covers are $5 here in Canada, no great loss.

Yeah, clean the metal dust off, always a good idea. It is aluminum so no great danger to the magnet and coil. Everything in there looks fine, although I cannot see the timing. If you haven't had it apart since it last ran, timing should be fine.

Now go to post #9

I tried it with screw off fuel line disconnected. screw on fuel line connected. still nothing. I don't know what to do. spark plug just smells of metal that's all.
How can it be neither wet nor dry ?

 

[Steve Best]

Fuel should pour out of that carb drain non-stop with the fuel tap on. Not just a dribble and stop.
If the fuel comes to the carb when you pulled the line off, the problem is inside the carb.
Plug should smell of fuel.

This is trouble shooting. Look for what you need, and see that you are getting it.

 

[Nahom]

Fuel should pour out of that carb drain non-stop with the fuel tap on. Not just a dribble and stop.
If the fuel comes to the carb when you pulled the line off, the problem is inside the carb.
Plug should smell of fuel.

This is trouble shooting. Look for what you need, and see that you are getting it.

Yup fuel does pour out non stop. I meant when the fuel tap was off. when i turned the tap off and unscrewed the bottom screw- the bit of fuel left in the carb seeped out .
Are you saying when the tap is off and I disconnect the the fuel line connecting the carb and fuel filter fuel should not drip out?
Also this is a brand new carb from the kit I installed after removing the one which came with the bike

 

[Steve Best]

Yup fuel does pour out non stop. I meant when the fuel tap was off. when i turned the tap off and unscrewed the bottom screw- the bit of fuel left in the carb seeped out .
Are you saying when the tap is off and I disconnect the the fuel line connecting the carb and fuel filter fuel should not drip out?
Also this is a brand new carb from the kit I installed after removing the one which came with the bike

Think about what you are looking for: "Is fuel getting from tank to carb?"
You have answered it, yes it is. Don't worry about anything else at this point.
New carb, trust it, leave it alone.

So, back to post#9
You have spark, timing is good because you didn't have the rotor off.
You have compression because it will drag the tire if you push the bike but goes THUP-THUP when you try to start.
And you have checked for fuel flow to the carb. When you pulled the plug, it didn't smell of fuel.

This tells not enough fuel getting to the cylinder.
Are you using the choke?
Is the carb and intake tube seated tightly so there are no air leaks?
Are the headbolts tight and the base gasket in place for no air leaks?

Steve

 

[Nahom]

Think about what you are looking for: "Is fuel getting from tank to carb?"
You have answered it, yes it is. Don't worry about anything else at this point.
New carb, trust it, leave it alone.

So, back to post#9
You have spark, timing is good because you didn't have the rotor off.
You have compression because it will drag the tire if you push the bike but goes THUP-THUP when you try to start.
And you have checked for fuel flow to the carb. When you pulled the plug, it didn't smell of fuel.

This tells not enough fuel getting to the cylinder.
Are you using the choke?
Is the carb and intake tube seated tightly so there are no air leaks?
Are the headbolts tight and the base gasket in place for no air leaks?

Steve

The choke has always been up the whole time,
my fuel line has broke again I've ordered 2 metres of it now- I keep pressing to hard with the pliers and creating tears- do you know of a better tool please for this disconnecting fuel line?
Does the base gasket and the plastic things which line both the sides of the engine actually matter- they had loads of red grease on them to make them stick- they've now all worn on- I didn't align them that well I guess- surely that can't be a serious deal?