Turnigy HXT Powered Custom Cruiser Worklog

[AussieJester]

Not so much an Update today, i spent most of the afternoon stripping and sorting through donor bikes so i can
chuck what i dont need and make room. The headsets and bottom brackets are cut along with any decent lengths of tube, hubs
rims and any 3 piece cranks of worth are packed away for future use the rest is ready for the scrap metal merchant
I also stripped my compressor down to find the motor is burnt out :-( !00 buck compressor has lasted me a good 4 years
so i no complain...shall have to pick up another in a couple of weeks when funds allow...

I have also pretty much stripped my trike down, seeing i had the forks off the trike i set them up on the cruiser frame to
gauge better the distance i will have from the front down tube to the front wheel, with mountain bike forks on
the frame it is close call for the pedals hitting the front tire if i place the bottom bracket where I had planned
to put it, my mind was put at rest when i put the springers on, theres HEAPS of room ...

I shall cut ~3inches off the forks, and also re-angle the rocker to be ~90 degrees to the fork tube, the springer tube will
obviously need re-sizing to do this. I should reduce the weight of the fork a little with the reduction in length...
I think i might also make new rockers, i would like to try the disk callipers position at the rear of the
rotor rather than its current position on top of the rotor.

Shall cut the fork up tomorrow and return with pics of a nice lowered front end on the cruiser...I want the same hight as
it had with the mountain bike forks, with the 3inch trail on the springer i will still have ample pedal clearance
from the tire, the pedals will also still clear the ground by 4 inches


Back soon

KiM

 

[AussieJester]

Miles..or Matt would appreciate your advice here please...
I wish to build a girder style fork similar to the one in the below pictures, I had planned to extend 4 front hubs
and use them in the fork rather than running rod straigh through the fork tube and fastening with a nyloc...
but have been thinking about this and would
appreciate your opinion.

...Is it viable? you see any issues with this? Just need a second/third opinion before i start cutting to find it isn't feasible
and to K.I.S.S and use a bushing arrangement...which i would rather not do as there is 4 pivot points
on the girder style fork which will equate to a fair amount of 'slop' once the bushes start to wear... ;-S
I think this was one of the drawbacks of Noleen's Girvin fork.

The post was directed at Miles and Matt as i know they are a couple of the more
clueing individuals here on ES when it comes to things of mechanical nature...that said though, please
if anyone would like to critic the idea please feel free,

Thanks in advance

KiM

 

[AussieJester]

After thinking about the whole hub/girder fork design and Miles suggesting the "full compliment" bearings
i decided (for now) i will go with the Springer. If i can get more time on the metal lathe
at mates workshop i will be able to turn up some bearing holders, making them
half assed (no bearings at all) isn't an option for me, after minimal use there would simply be too
much slop due to the high number of pivot points. So....

I have altered the springer tube to lower the front ride height and im
rapt with the way the bike sits now, less "chopper" more "pro-stock/cruiser" look to it

...the trail is also spot on not a hint of flop i can wheel the bike around holding the top tube of the frame and the front wheel stays nice and upright not flopping side to side. I would estimate the front end sits ~4in lower than
before.

Matt has informed me my package is on its way WoooHooo!!!! i'm thinking it should
be here mid next week (bout standard time for freight from US of A...to OZ) So things will speed up
considerably as mounts for the drive are fabbed along with the stabiliser wheel setup!
Once this is done ill move onto a battery enclosure, this will be molded from
foam and fibreglass mould made from this, i want a nice "streamline" no square looking
box that will also double as an enclosure to hide the linear actuator...few nice vents and
scoops added to compliment the aesthetics hehee I want it slim and compact but still
big enough to hold AND lock in ~12X 22v 5000mah Lipo packs

Back when i have the reduction drive in my hot little hand...

KiM

p.s I forgot also, im heading to mate's workshop this weekend to use the
metal lathe to turn the rear V pulley down making it suitable for flat belt, shall report back how
that goes when i return

 

[AussieJester]

Update

Good mate Noeeeel...came by this morning picked me and the 10 inch "V" Pulley
up to take to his workplace (Modified Vehicle Systems) to turn it down on the Metal Lathe.

As always, pictures of the whole process were taken for your
viewing pleasure-->

Pictures a pretty self explanatory i think? the sides were first removed, before a 15.5mm 'flat'
surface was created for the belt, the center was then turned to allow fitting of the 3speed hub
sprocket (see below pics of Matt's completed pulley)

Extremely pleased how the pulley has turned out, HUGE thanks
to Noel for his time and to the boss of MVS for the use of the workshop/Lathe.

As mentioned in the work log before epoxy teeth will now be added to the pulley in the
same manner as Matt (1000watt) has done on his 10in Pulley i.e-->

I shall borrow Matts 'cut' belt... if the pulley needs additional material
removed so as the belt teeth spacing is accurate this isn't a problem, bulk of the
turning has already been completed another 0.5mm can be taken off the circumference
if need be....

Back soon folks

KiM

 

[AussieJester]

ITS HEEEERE!!!!! Courier just dropped it off i havent even opened the box yet im so excited i had to tell someone, HOW FAST 7 days exactly from Matts door to mine !!!! Be back with pics when my heart rate calms down enough to open the box...

EDIT:


Ok opened everything ABSOLUTELY outstanding CNC work on the drive Matt The actuator fits perfect on lower tube heres some pics-->

VERY well packed Matt!!!

I'm off to swap about the drive and mount the motor OH hahaha i didnt have the right size allen key for the **** bolts can you beliiiieve it, 30 seconds with the angle grinder and an old allen key rectified that though LoL


EDIT 2:

KiM

p.s Also like to thank Fechter for the throttle interface, will make things soooo much easier to connect up and hopefully less likely to blow the HV110 straight away haha cheers mate ;-)

 

[AussieJester]

Update

I wish! Spent a few hours though and made a good start on mounting the reduction drive
unfortunately it is after closer inspection a tad too large to mount on the seat tube
but i had allowed for this hence the "stretched" rear end :: wink::

First i need to make a mount to bolt the redcution drive to using the 4 provided mounting
holes on the drive itself, this is how i have decided to go about it-->

(yes the threaded shaft on the motor will be lopped off so nothing will be protruding outside of the frame )

I think the pictures are pretty self explanatory? The metal rule's in the last pics will obviously be replaced
by tubing, the drive will be sideways adjustable to allow for correct belt alignment.. VERY
happy with how it fits neatly into the space in front of the front wheel, looks too good for the rest
of the bike though, needs some colour on the frame to pretty it up some hahaa

Back tomorrow with a fully mounted reduction drive and motor

KiM

 

[AussieJester]

EDIT: you snuck a post in there when i was writing mine Matt hahaa...yes i will be haing an idler
wheel very close to the pulley Matt, had thought this might be the case, will use the
same setup that Matt(1000watt) used on his cruiser-->

..Here's a quick photochop of how i intend to have it-->

Edit 2: I had a comment on RatRod bikes by a confused member he thought i was using the frames bottom bracket as part of the electric drive line , this isn't the case, i have drawn a quick diagram to clarify the driveline hope this clears it up for anyone confused-->

I have already purchased the left hand threaded freewheel it was posted yesterday from the UK $AU20including freight

What size/thickness was the square tube which you started with?

the the square tube has a wall thickness of 2mm matey, i plan to also have a
square "mounting" plate welded to the base of this making it 4mm all up with 2mm sides, i
think this will be more than adequate seeing the bracket is bolted top and
bottom and only 40mm in height, can't see it flexing IF it does, ill simply brace it internally...

Cheers fellas...

KiM

 

[AussieJester]

I sat on the bike and had my buddy Flav take a pic, hopefully this will give you all a better indication of the actual size of the bike, it looks ALOT bigger with nobody on it...pssst... Heyna...might want to "revise" the pedal position on that cruiser design buddy hehehe...

*WARNING* Extremely sexy individual in below picture if you wish to keep your wives and girlfriends i suggest you block their view of the screen

See how broke i am because of this Hobby i can'teven afford a new shirt :-( LoL


I just had my mate drop me up the hardware i picked up some square tubing i will use for the
reduction drive mount on the frame...Soon as i have had my LOOSH chicken and salad roll from the bakery and watched N C I S FTW ill be out to cut and weld the mounts in place on the frame before bolting the reduction drive in its NEW HOME!!

KiM

 

[AussieJester]

UPDATE


Ok, i have the drive mount fab FINISHED aside from welding in the tubing to the frame, i coooould
do it now BUT i want to wait until i have the rear hub and the rear pulley mounted to make 110% sure
it is correct and no modifications etc are needed...Below is probably the most picture intensive series
i have done for the least amount of work LMAO...Reason ...weeell does that reeeeally need an explanation???
I get to show off Mr R (Matt. S ...RECUMPENCE) CNC Pr0n of course im soooo freaking rapted
with this drive it is 'exy!! wanted one the instant i set eyes on his "proto-type" pictures just don't do the
workmanship justice -->

The steel plate is too be welded to the 'square tubing'

As mentioned earlier i picked up some square tubing to use in the frame to mount the reduction
drive "base mount" onto Everything lines up beeeautifull, the notching worked out SPOT ON sooo
pleased, i tried EXTRA hard to make this look PERFECT and STILL it fails in comparison to the CNC
Pr0n :: sigh:: It is jammed in pretty tight needed the gympie to tap it into place...EXTREMELY
happy with the result, the complete assembly will be powder coated same colour as the rest of
the frame...

One more HUUUGE thankyou to Recumpence i said it before and ill say it again he is the man that is
pushing the e-bike tech FORWARD .

Shall be starting on the stabiliser setup tomorrow using the linear actuator Matt S donated to me...

Back tomorrow folks...

KiM

 

[AussieJester]

Update

I'm killing time whilst i wait for my mate to come by, we
are heading to local fastener supplier for some allen key bolts and
rose joint ends needed for the stabiliser setup, I'm also through the cutt off disks i bought
and need another roll of welding wire before i can continue on...as i have finished my lunch and he still
ain't here i thought i would upload a few pics of this mornings work...

Firstly i wanted to see if it would be an easy task to lop a few inches off the
linear actuators so as i could stick with the original plan to mount the actuator
on the seat tube-->

Long story short, it isn't...not with the means i have available to me anywayz, the outer
tube is alloy and threaded both ends, there is also two switches that are situated at
each 'end point' that stop the motor. These can't be reached to be removed
i gather they are epoxied in place aside from that the "threaded rod" cant
easily be shortened with its two machined ends rquired for the actuator to work properley..

SO my backup design was to mount the actuator along the frames
lower tube, this will work as well and has the added bonus the actuator will be completely
out of sight, it will be enclosed by the battery "box" bit of a blessing in disguise really ;-)

Here's a few pics that will explain better the setup i hope-->

I Shall be mounting the stabiliser pivot below the bottom bracket utilising a front hub (yes those bloody
front hubs raise their head again Miles...heaven forbid they be used for
their intended purpose! LoL )

I will be using rose joint ends for connecting 'push rods' to the stabilisers and 'levers'
the actuator will only need to move ~2-3 inches to lower the stabiliser/wheels to the ground
this will mean i have the added range to LIFT the whole *** end of the bike off the ground if I need
to, will handy for raising the rear to work on the bike, also i can think of another
tricky use, I can take almost all the weight off the rear wheel and pull some wicked smoky
burnouts hahaa..

Hopefully my mate will turn up soon and i can get the supplies i need to continue...shall be back to finish the
update lil later

KiM