Using bolts 8.8 with heads cut off for engine studs

[crackers]

Thanks Silvaire that chart explanes it for me. I think I'll stick with the 8.8 mm studs I've already installed in my engine, I've used an easy-out on grade 5 bolts without any problems and I didn't want to pull the engine to change all studs to a lower grade.
Luka I live in Calif and they will laugh out loud at you if you ask them for a 6mm 1.0 pitch stud especialy a harden one, I know this from experance.

 

[Pablo]

Really all you need for these bikes is quality Grade 5 (8.8) hardware. If you are snapping or stripping Grade 5, you are an animal in search of a calibrated torque wrench.

 

[crackers]

Thanks Silvaire after seeing your chart I think I will leave the 8.8 studs I made out of the bolts in my engine. I've had to use an easy-out on grade five bolts before and there were no problems drilling for the easy out.

 

[crackers]

Speaking of torque wrenchs can somebody show me a pic of one small enough to work on these bikes. When tighting my carb, motor mounts and exhaust bolts all I can get on them is the open end of a 10mm combo wrench because theres no room even for the box end. All I've been doing is to tighting them down untill the lock washer is closed and then giving them about extra 1/4 turn. I wish I had a torque wrench that small, I can't even picture what it must look like. Seeing how theres no room for a socket on these bolts it must be some type of a combation wrench? I've looked on habor freights site and saw nothing, can anybody tell me who sells them?

 

[Al.Fisherman]

I use a 3/8 drive (inch # torque wrench....1 foot # = 12 inch #) for the cylinder studs, carburetor and the right exhaust stud. On the left exhaust stud I use a 10mm 1/4 drive socket, a short (6") extension, a 3/8" to 1/4" reducer. PLENTY of room to spare. Aslo I replace the studs with grade 5, use lock tite and locking nuts.



http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...0416041427&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK:MEWNX:IT

He has more in stock....well worth the money. I have a 1/2 drive also but not good for these engines.... 12 foot #'s not as easy as 144 inch #'s and larger is very hard to use...too many reducers and extensions.

 

[crackers]

Thanks Al I'm going to order one today. My clearance problems with getting a scoket on a nut is when I'm installing the exhaust pipe, carb, and rear mounting nuts. There to close to the welds and the round part of the clamp for a scoket to fit on, Ive had to file on these area's just to get clearance enough for a lockwasher to fit flat. Are you having these problems? MY intake and exhaust manifold has welded bead all around there pipe's. The picture of your intake manifold shows no welded bead like mine has, were you able to grind it flat or is it aftermarket?

 

[Al.Fisherman]

That is a brand new engine I'm doing all the prep work before I install it. If a washer won't lay flat onto the exhaust flange I'll rework it so it will. The socket that you see is a 1/4" deep thin wall socket...hapens to be a Crafstman....any GOOD brand will have the thin wall. I doubt that a 3/8" drive socket will produce the results you want. To see what I do prior to starting my engine...check this out. http://motoredbikes.com/showthread.php?t=11986&page=3 I may go overboard but I have plenty of time and this is not needed for transportation.
By the way, the intake manifold was manufactured as you see it.