witch one is best?

One piece cheeks?
6203 bearings?
What make is this?
And you are serious that it is a smooth running crank?
My 2015 Grubee 66cc runs very smooth at high rpm, 2012 Grubee 49cc not so much.
And the little black no-name stuffed motor is not bad for vibes but doesn't want to do rpm.

There is a theory that intake cross section should keep a moderately constant cross sectional area to keep flow at a constant speed and hence a maximum rate. Varied cross sectional areas will speed up or slow down flow, ruining flow momentum and cause fuel to drop out of suspension at the slow points. The fuel will not keep up with the air at the fast points too. Any change in diameter should be gradual like a trumpet to conserve momentum of fuel and air, and should be focused on getting around bottlenecks, such as carb venturi or port window, or to amplify resonant waves.

I have worked with this and found good results from following this theory. I worked with the constant area rule on 4 stroke engine ports, and filled 2 stroke reed boxes to achieve the same effect. Notice the plastic filler blocks on the intake side of these reedboxes:
full


Here is a Yamaha Blaster reedbox filled with epoxy to keep a constant cross-sectional area and to keep intake velocity up.
This was very successful:
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The port windows are slightly larger, mainly to match the piston window.
The piston winow was untouched because it is a weak point with this engine.
The port center bridge is untouched for width and far from knife-edged like usually done.
It is actually built up and radiused with thought to how it will flow past the piston.
There are 2 packs of JB Weld and one of epoxy putty filler (about 6oz total) and the aluminum in the sides.
This does act as crankcase "stuffing", everything inside of the reeds does, but primary effect is flow.
This engine had more low end torque, a lower powerband kick in, and reved higher on the pipe.
Wide powerband plus it was dead easy to jet and consistent.
Stock motor is 17hp, this one (with other mods) is about 35 hp and about 2000 more rpm.

My point is bigger is not better, like Butre mentions, flow and other characteristics are important too.
One I noticed with the piston port engine was the value of port mismatch. Didn't expect that...

Steve
 
Yeah sorry not good pics I tried to show that inside the cheeks there are two 12mm holes on each side of crank pin but then there are two 5mm holes on either side of crank pin below the pin on the center line and there are in different places from one cheek to the other,and yes it runs very smooth
 
So next up we have a very well balanced crank from factory!
I bought 3 of these engines on a gamble, and after installing 1 I bought 4 more. It ran really well. Wound up quick and pretty smooth. I think they were so cheap cause 2 so far had a leak in the case gasket.
the 10mm holes go all the way through both cheeks. Their is a small hole as well, but I think it is a centered index hole for the crank probably used during machining.


 
Yes i think your right! On the one I tried to show on the inside of each cheek there is two 5mm holes that go right thru (under bearing) and the center point.
 
Did they have the integrated cdi? One could assume that this would be a better crank to make more power on just add the sthil 028 needle bearing to wrist pin.I would like to try the new cdi just out of curiosity!
 
Do you think the intention of the 5 mm holes maybe additional oil to the bearings or for balance ?
 
Did they have the integrated cdi? One could assume that this would be a better crank to make more power on just add the sthil 028 needle bearing to wrist pin.I would like to try the new cdi just out of curiosity!
Nope, they had the old 3 wire mag. I'm thinking about lightly stuffing one in the areas I marked with sharpie.
 
Nope, they had the old 3 wire mag. I'm thinking about lightly stuffing one in the areas I marked with sharpie.

Gary, I would do it, if only to see if it duplicates what I saw.
I used a plastic cover of a roll of plumber's tape as a mold for the epoxy.
It fit well, I would call it "Close stuffing" rather than light stuffing.
I also filled the entire case with 1mm thick of epoxy, and filled the transfer trough up to the crank cheek diameter.

The big difference would be your engine has the better flowing cylinders.
Interesting to see how it works.

I don't know how high a turbulence area it is. Hidden under the crank cheek, I don't think it has much effect on anything but volume.

Steve
 
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