Question about rear tire and Clutch arm position.

[worldsfastestindian]

Hello, Im new to this site and motor bicycling in general. I have alot of experience with cars and small motors but this a new animal. I put a 66cc motor on a schwinn cruiser and had it all together good, as far as alignment and it pedaling fairly smooth. However, after installing the clutch the rear tire doesnt move at all whether its engaged or not and I chalk it up to the clutch arm.
I notice in pictures the clutch arm is parallel to the engine and gets pulled inward to the right of the would be rider. The arm on my motor sticks out in the way of the pedal and barely makes it back to being parallel to the engine. Is there a way to fix that, and is it as simple as my clutch not being engaged and put into neutral?
Anyway thanks for your time, this is a great resource and I am looking forward to being part of the community.

 

[RMWdave]

well, there is a way to fix that most certainly. your clutch actuator rod is made of round stock and has splines on one end and a flat on the inside. when pulled inwards by the cable, the flat pushes the rod inside disengaging the clutch. there is a spring that holds it engaged.

what you need to do is loosen the 10mm nut a few turns and close up a vise so the actuator arms sides will sit on the clamps and tap out the actuator rod itself. then, adjust its position. the best place i find is to make it parellel with the flat, this will put the arm closer to the cable stop (at an angle, not pointing straight back to the rear tire) and it makes it a helluva lot easier to pull in.

any more questions just lay em out here ill do my best!
like i said, the arm and actuator are a splined set, so as long as you can push on it now and disengage the clutch while keeping pressure on it, you should just need to tap it out and move it a bit.

 

[Just_Gasit]

Here is an excellent mod for the clutch cable. There are some real good pictures that show the arm position too. I'm going to do this mod myself. Click link below.

http://www.motoredbikes.com/showthread.php?p=217290#post217290

 

[worldsfastestindian]

well, there is a way to fix that most certainly. your clutch actuator rod is made of round stock and has splines on one end and a flat on the inside. when pulled inwards by the cable, the flat pushes the rod inside disengaging the clutch. there is a spring that holds it engaged.

what you need to do is loosen the 10mm nut a few turns and close up a vise so the actuator arms sides will sit on the clamps and tap out the actuator rod itself. then, adjust its position. the best place i find is to make it parellel with the flat, this will put the arm closer to the cable stop (at an angle, not pointing straight back to the rear tire) and it makes it a helluva lot easier to pull in.

any more questions just lay em out here ill do my best!
like i said, the arm and actuator are a splined set, so as long as you can push on it now and disengage the clutch while keeping pressure on it, you should just need to tap it out and move it a bit.

Hey, thanks alot for your help. Turns out I was just unaware of how hard it would be to engage the clutch. I've had motorcycles where the clutch was easier to pull. Everything is going really smooth now after a little more tweaks of the idle screw. Thanks again for your help.

 

[RMWdave]

on the road buddy thats what i like to hear.

 

[cabinfever1977]

take off the spring on the clutch cable(its not needed)and the clutch will be a lot easier to pull.