21mm OKO Carb with DIO Reed Bog Issue

I don't know much about carbs and Reed valves. I know that some reeds can stick open and blow air back out the intake. Do a little research on Reed valves.
 
If you measure the threads the jet head doesn't to be the same exactly just the screw in part I got mine on Amazon does it four stroke or bog in the unusable area of throttle
 
Just lower the screw on top the carb it should fix it like move the bolt on bottom to top and screw it all the way in
 
I have the same problem although I did drill out small hole to 1.0mm. I installed biggest jet that came with kit and runs but only have like 1/3 usable throttle.
Drilling that hole is not good, but your issue lies above that at the needle and main.
 
This is an oko carb and the hole that meters air flow to the pilot jet, as you can see it is quite small yes but for good reason.
That hole meter's the air that pulls/draws on the pilot jet, then that jet can only flow what it's rated for so when you add air volume by drilling this hole it goes lean, and the pilot jet size has to increase to match the new air volume and have a correct A/F ratio.
Drill out this hole does not draw more fuel alone that's not how it work's and the mention of these engines not having the vacuum to draw enough at idle for this size/style of carb is hogwash also, It has nothing to do with vac as it's atmospheric pressure that rushes though the carb body and it's metering is done on that not vacuum.
 

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Drilling that hole is not good, but your issue lies above that at the needle and main.
I see this on the forums a lot, people don't realize a carb is made to operate in a pacific manner and think just a small "adjustment" is all it needs.

I would be more inclined to purchase the right carb and have it operate properly. A nice saw carb with H&L jets, no float and on board pump would be a better choice than Frankensteining an existing one.

I guess some guys have no patience.
 
I see this on the forums a lot, people don't realize a carb is made to operate in a pacific manner and think just a small "adjustment" is all it needs.

I would be more inclined to purchase the right carb and have it operate properly. A nice saw carb with H&L jets, no float and on board pump would be a better choice than Frankensteining an existing one.

I guess some guys have no patience.
im new to the game this is the first kit i have got that wasent a stock 50cc
 
im new to the game this is the first kit i have got that wasent a stock 50cc
If you get your bike running on stock carb, (JRL Bofeng comes to mind and is a solid carb) then you'll get a better understanding of carbs and how these little engines run. I guess those carbs (Bofeng) are like 12 bucks on Amazon US.
 
im new to the game this is the first kit i have got that wasent a stock 50cc
If you get your bike running on stock carb, (JRL Bofeng comes to mind and is a solid carb) then you'll get a better understanding of carbs and how these little engines run. I guess those carbs (Bofeng) are like 12 bucks on Amazon US.
YEP, exactly the carb I would recommend as well, they work so flawlessly with very little fuss...Just adjust the needle valve where it needs to be to run right is all.

 
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