sherron82
Active Member
Wow thanks I'll have to study this and try to understand. That really helps though. Much appreciated
Can anyone help me
- Thread starter sherron82
- Start date
francisjohn
Active Member
Very well said and agreed. In my opinion, touching the ex flange on a cylinder is a death sentence. I don't think people have noticed that the exhaust flanges themselves are pretty much the same size (possibly for the exception of the P85 and A85 as they use an exhaust outside the norm)
stock pipe, flex pipe, mz65 clone and all the other pipes are going to have a 19mm hole on the exhaust flanges. That's why I never understood people who will widen the exhaust port flange, 9.5/10 the exhaust port's flange is always larger than the exhaust flange itself.
francisjohn
Active Member
It's alot, and I totally understand not absorbing all of it. Once you understand how the engine itself works, it will allow you to understand how port timing works. I had to go back to the basics actually. When I went into the hobby I did anything to get more power and tried to throw money at it. I realized alot of the things I was doing simply weren't affective. 2-3 months in, I was on my porch porting a cylinder, yet I didn't even understand how a 2T engine works other than "I drop the clutch and it fires on"
I had to work backwards to completely modify my thinking. I couldn't understand porting because I didn't understand how the ports work. I didn't understand how the ports work because I didn't understand how the engine worked.
sherron82
Active Member
Yeah I definitely will take all this in. I'll probably just get a new cylinder soon don't see that one being any good now lol thanks again
Wyvern
Well-Known Member
Good and yes, stock.
Had to adjust needle and the float once.
The bike has been sitting because I need to rework the brakes, and the Phatmoto to 224 project got me sidetracked.
Clean the snot out of the port with soapy water and dry it thoroughly (stick it in the oven on low heat if you need to. Make sure it's DRY) Tape over the port entrance with masking tape. Fill the port floor with the previously mentioned JB weld. Let it sit standing with the port floor level with the ground or tilting a bit toward the intake port at the flange ideally as the jb weld will settle. Let cure for 48 hours to be safe.
Now you can rework the port
Now you can rework the port
I just knew you would know the proper proceedure for doing this...lol.
sherron82
Active Member
When you say port entrance do you mean put masking tape on the inside of cylinder covering the intake port?
I am speaking in the terms of flow path. Air/Fuel enters from the outside, aka flange side. Tape over the flange side of the intake port to block it.
That's because I've had to do it before. Either by my own mistakes, or to fix flaws in cylinders. If you do things correctly, the JB weld will hold fast. Since the intake is already a rough surface, that's covered. From that point it's just degrease and remove any metal dust still sitting in the grooves of the rough surface that need to be removed. Ideally a new cylinder should be bought, but this also works just fine.
