Sgt. Howard
Active Member
Spoke adjustment
There's an old gunsmithing trick that comes to mind here. You know that plastic handle goop that allows you to put vinyl handles on cheap tools? Just open the can, dip the handles and call it good... that stuff? Well, take a pair of slip-joint pliers and dip the JAWS and let that set with the jaws open... it's how we gunsmiths set flatsprings like on flintlocks without buggering them up. Also good on leafsprings on Peacemakers and similar single action handguns, or anywhere that you need a strong, soft grip. I would grip with the serrations of the jaws parrallel to the spoke, less likely to mar the spoke that way and you can use another section of the jaws as the vinyl wears through. If that doesn't give you enough traction, remove the vinyl and use horsehide glue to pad the jaws with 12oz leather- once the glue has set (24 hrs) dust them up with bow rosin... yes, fiddlebow rosin... and see if that don't work.
the Old Sgt.
There's an old gunsmithing trick that comes to mind here. You know that plastic handle goop that allows you to put vinyl handles on cheap tools? Just open the can, dip the handles and call it good... that stuff? Well, take a pair of slip-joint pliers and dip the JAWS and let that set with the jaws open... it's how we gunsmiths set flatsprings like on flintlocks without buggering them up. Also good on leafsprings on Peacemakers and similar single action handguns, or anywhere that you need a strong, soft grip. I would grip with the serrations of the jaws parrallel to the spoke, less likely to mar the spoke that way and you can use another section of the jaws as the vinyl wears through. If that doesn't give you enough traction, remove the vinyl and use horsehide glue to pad the jaws with 12oz leather- once the glue has set (24 hrs) dust them up with bow rosin... yes, fiddlebow rosin... and see if that don't work.
the Old Sgt.
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