Brake light switch ideas

[james65]

That aluma-weld is pretty handy. I have had luck using it on lighter alum but not as much on heavier material.

James65,

The switches were from Radio Shack, a pack of 4 for less than 5 bucks. It's the mounting that's the trick. Google a company called "Dura Fix". They have a welding rod kit for 30-some bucks that welds aluminum like you wouldn't believe. It will be the best 30-some bucks you will ever spend. All you need to build your bracket is a propane torch and this welding rod, and of coarse a small piece of angle aluminum. I broke down the duel pull lever, welded a couple small brackets, and WaaLaa, a nice clean looking brake system. I'm also using LED's to prolong the battery life. You can go months without charging. Check out this site for the LED's, they plug right into the regular 12 volt light sockets. http://www.customdynamics.com/vtx_turn_signal_mod.htm

 

[MikeJ]

Hi Everyone -

Here is my latest version of the brake-lever-actuated brake light; I think I will keep this one. The black area is a one millimeter or so thick layer of insulation (cardboard cereal box in this case). It is surrounded by one or more layers of electrical tape. The actuated hardware is a carriage bolt head (1/4" x 20) that I smoothed down with a common file and rubbing on paper to take off some of the microscopic sharpness. I also put a half-diameter slot in the shank just to accept the brake cable. The brake cable and a wire from the light are compressed by some wide washers. The hose clamps hold the wire from the battery. When the brake lever is actuated, the bolt head slides forward and makes connection to the battery wire, and the bright tail light is actuated. This particular 12 volt LED tail light has off-dim-bright modes, just like truck lights (because it is a truck light). Most everyone reading this knows the brightness of actuated brake lights. But I put in some photos anyway. The battery and light still needs mounting, but that is for another day...

MikeJ