can I put an after market carborater on a new kit before the so called break in period?

Are there any hills on your route? What difference is there between the performance riding uphill and downhill? Rich condition performs better going uphill, and it "four strokes" going downhill.
Is there any throttle delay? Presumably not since we're pretty sure it's running rich.
Stalling any time you use even a little choke means that it's very rich.
Choke restricts the airflow without affecting the fuel flow, so that it richens the a/f mixture.
On a"perfectly" set up carb, in the cold weather it's normal to need some choke until the engine warms up, so I'm pretty certain it's already rich.
Rich is good for break-in stage but it could be just a bit too much of a good thing.
It might need a smaller jet. This is something that I have been able to avoid until the engine is broken in. What I mean is that with your engine being in the break-in stage, and with the cold weather too, it's a bit strange that you should need a leaner a/f mix already.

So perhaps you should check for leaks around the head gasket.

Also maybe test the compression. A stock engine fitted to the bike without any modifications may well have a low cranking pressure. Raising compression (within safe limits) will give you a bunch of extra torque. So you might want to buy or borrow a compression tester and find out what the cranking pressure is on your engine.

I'll probably pick up a compression tester tonight then and hive that a go. I always appreciate the help thanks. I will post what the test is.
 
I'll probably pick up a compression tester tonight then and hive that a go. I always appreciate the help thanks. I will post what the test is.
Cool. :)
Removing the magnet is the easiest way to disable the ignition if your connections are soldered. Otherwise just unplug the connectors for safety.
Idk whether I need to say, but crank the engine over by getting the bike up to a decent speed, then dump the clutch as if starting and pedal with the throttle held wide open until it defeats you. The tester should read above 100psi.
Below 90psi you have problems.
120psi+ would be nice.
135psi is said to be the best for torque without shortening the life of the cylinder. It's unlikely to be as high as this without being modified.
Some modded engines are running much higher compression but you'll need to be careful about how this is done. Anyway we'll see what the results are first.
 
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No problem I just wish I had a keyboard when I'm typing a long post with one finger on a smartphone lol!

Forget about buying a new carb, the stock one is absolutely fine and probably the best for you and for a lightly modified engine. What's the diameter of the filter you got? I'm sure it is less expensive to buy a different filter or the right adapter for the stock carb, and anyway you have a good simple little carb right now. I'm using an adapter for fitting a 42mm foam filter to the stock carb, personally and I'm loving it.

The adapter is on eBay and costs a few bucks (£2.46 to me, here). I can't screen shot on this phone so just search for carburetor air filter stack pit trail dirt bike, or something.
The air filter I'm using is just a 42mm foam air filter, though I chose the one with a 45° bend.

what is the adapter you got there? what would I call the piece I'm trying to look up on home depot. plumming,pvc,ect...
 
what is the adapter you got there? what would I call the piece I'm trying to look up on home depot. plumming,pvc,ect...
I got it from eBay. It's meant for the carb, to attach any 42mm filter to it. Search eBay using the words I wrote, carburetor air filter stack pit trail dirt bike as those appear in the title of the listing/s.
The seller is " song-top (14193) "
It might take a couple of weeks to arrive but you can do something temporary in the meantime.. Hack up your stock air filter box and use duct tape to attach a better filter, or anything like that, that removes the restriction on your airflow. That'll help make your a/f less overly rich.
 
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I got it from eBay. It's meant for the carb, to attach any 42mm filter to it. Search eBay using the words I wrote, carburetor air filter stack pit trail dirt bike as those appear in the title of the listing/s.
The seller is " song-top (14193) "
It might take a couple of weeks to arrive but you can do something temporary in the meantime.. Hack up your stock air filter box and use duct tape to attach a better filter, or anything like that, that removes the restriction on your airflow. That'll help make your a/f less overly rich.

that explains why 5 couldn't find that at ace hardware lol. I figure at the moment I'm. ganna as I found one that is the right fit, use an airasal can. cut the bottom drill out the hole for the air to the manifold and the 2 screws. having just enough for the clamp to clamp. And some tape to seal it all.
 
that explains why 5 couldn't find that at ace hardware lol. I figure at the moment I'm. ganna as I found one that is the right fit, use an airasal can. cut the bottom drill out the hole for the air to the manifold and the 2 screws. having just enough for the clamp to clamp. And some tape to seal it all.
That sounds just fine! :) I'm only using the adapter for neatness and a little more ease of removal and refitting, but sealed is sealed. :)
 
That sounds just fine! :) I'm only using the adapter for neatness and a little more ease of removal and refitting, but sealed is sealed. :)

I'll be messing with it this Weekend in. between m shifts at work. on another not I been trying to find a NFL B6HS spark plug at the auto parts stores I can't lol go figure but the guy said a champion L86C should work. I'm ganna compare it to the one that came with my kit when I get off work tonigh. i did find a list of compatible plugs so I'll be Ginnie pigging this.
 
I'll be messing with it this Weekend in. between m shifts at work. on another not I been trying to find a NFL B6HS spark plug at the auto parts stores I can't lol go figure but the guy said a champion L86C should work. I'm ganna compare it to the one that came with my kit when I get off work tonigh. i did find a list of compatible plugs so I'll be Ginnie pigging this.
I can't comment on the plug unfortunately. The only one I know first hand is the NGK BPR6HIX. If I'd known you were going to upgrade the plug I'd have mentioned the boot and wire could really take an upgrade too. Remember that a non resistor plug requires a resistor boot, and vice versa.
 
I can't comment on the plug unfortunately. The only one I know first hand is the NGK BPR6HIX. If I'd known you were going to upgrade the plug I'd have mentioned the boot and wire could really take an upgrade too. Remember that a non resistor plug requires a resistor boot, and vice versa.
I did not know that. dam glad about this community I tell ya. I havnt changed the plug yet I'm still at work.
in the next day or two I'll have the time to do the air filter and look into the new plug. does the plug say non resister on them? like I said b4 I am not mechanical by nature lol
 
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I did not know that. dam glad about this community I tell ya. I havnt changed the plug yet I'm still at work.
I was just reading a post that contradicts what I have just told you about needing one resistor in the circuit.. I am still choosing to believe (the advice I followed and is working perfectly AFAIK) lol.
EDIT (because you did lol): the NGK resistor plugs have an R in the code, like my BPR6HIX. The non resistor plugs have no R, like the B6HS which is so often recommended. Idk about the Champion brand plugs so you'll have to Goggle it.

One thing I'm certain there is no disagreement about is that the stock plug wire and plug boot are the cheapest crap they could find to put in the kit. An NGK boot, whichever one you choose, is visibly much better constructed.
 
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