Chain tensioner bracket is too large for the frame.

[FurryOnTheInside]

I actually think that the engine mounted tensioner _might_ not be a problem _IF_ the OP used a smaller sprocket than the 44t he currently has on his 20" wheel.

It is a cruiser style frame so the engine is probably quite low down, and as a 20" wheel bike the chainstays are short, compounding the problem. So switching to a 34t (equivalent to a 44t on 26") might not be enough to make a turbobuick tensioner work. It remains to be seen.
I think it still might be a problem, but I think that he should start by getting more appropriate gearing on there first, and then see what can be done with tensioner options.

 

[David Bogle]

This is the worst suggestion I've ever heard, NEVER wrap rubber or tape around wheel stay to secure a chain tensioner unless you want to replace the whole wheel!! I would agree with NO tensioner, use of half link, if I did this I would install an 80cc STOP CHAIN LOCKUP aftermarket part from eBay, I make my own out of nylon plastic similar to cutting board material, this will guarantee that you will never have to replace a chain that bunches up around the drive sprocket (it fills in the gap around the drive sprocket) or I would use an aftermarket tensioner/ make my own based on one of the recent designs you'll find on this forum, I like the self adjusting one that uses a twin bed frame spring and piece of allthread, or the moer recent one that uses an atv tensioner from Tractor Supply.

 

[JGH122]

Mine has worked perfect on the last two bikes.
I would never install a chain tensioner without the grit tape.
Rubber, ordinary tape and tin will not work.
The inherent design flaw in the tensioners demands it.
The chain stay is slippery smooth
The tensioner where it clamps to the chain stay is slippery smooth.
Put a layer of grit tape on the chain stay and a strip on either piece of the tensioner clamp.
This way you do not have to over tighten it to the point you crush the chain stay.(which happens to 9 out of 10 times)
Mine you would have to give it a good shot with a hammer to get it to move.
It is the only fix short of welding it.
And that is not an option on aluminium bike.
The best one is the super sticky metal backed antiuslip tape from Caterpillar

 

[David Bogle]

Ever tried putting a bolt through it?
What you just described to me is far more detailed of a description opposed to what you gave as "advice"

 

[JGH122]

Ever tried putting a bolt through it?
What you just described to me is far more detailed of a description opposed to what you gave as "advice"

Putting a bolt through what?....the chain stay?

 

[David Bogle]

Drill through the tensioner and chain stay and put a grade 8 bolt through it, works great. Not an advisable method if the bracket is too large, best option I believe is a different style of tensioner

 

[JGH122]

Drill through the tensioner and chain stay and put a grade 8 bolt through it, works great. Not an advisable method if the bracket is too large, best option I believe is a different style of tensioner

That's kind of scary not?
Why not just drill a hole though one side of the tensioner and one side of the chainstay and use a decent self tapping screw.
J-B Weld the screw in place and that should hold it.

 

[gary55]

Well we all have a lot of ideas.I'm not big on weakening frames, especially when they are already to small for components to work. I'm also not real big on rubber or tape for spacers as I have seen it fail all to often. So having said that, were I to build on the stingray 20"er I would use the 34 th. sprocket with the turbobuick spring tensioner on the engine. With the larger sprocket I would use the arch tensioner. Almost 4 yrs. ago I asked Jag my first dumb question, and have continued learning form members on this site. In that time I have built over 100 bikes, and couldn't count how many I have repaired. So if there is a better way posted that I see as plausible through my experience I'm gona use it.

SAM_0036

• gary55
• Aug 1, 2016
• 2