commanderroach1999
Member
I will take that into consideration Steve best.
Chain tensioner in spokes
- Thread starter commanderroach1999
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KTOKTO
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Holy crap ! You just keep getting better. For F### sake man, what in the F went through your mind when you thought it would be a reasonable idea to drill that many holes in something structural?
gary55
Well-Known Member
Think how much lighter it is, oh and when you make a left turn at speed it whistles. I think he should name it the piccolo.
commanderroach1999
Member
You know what lay off man I just lost my job so u can stick it.
KTOKTO
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That doesn't change the fact that drilling Swiss cheese in to your chain stays is a recipe for something far worse than losing a job.
gary55
Well-Known Member
It sucks loosing your job, but we didn't cause that. If nobody gave you any crap about doing something that is wrong and dangerous you wouldn't learn that it is wrong and dangerous. Cheer up you will get another job, and in the mean time you get to enjoy our charming and witty advice.
butre
Well-Known Member
your employment status is none of my business. job or no job making swiss cheese out of your frame will cause it to fail.
KCvale
In memory of KCvale 1959 - 2019
Everyone does know that the stock tensioner does not come with the wheel in the right spot right?
You can mount the 2-pieces of it with the long side on the outside of the chain-stay or the inside, and just flip the wheel to the other side?
Most 2-stroke I have done like the long piece on the inside of the chain-stay side.
If your build is pulling the tensioner into the spokes it's because you have the long side of mount on the wrong side!
Also note that depending on your chain stay angle, you may need to twist the long side to be in-line with the chain.
I just use a crescent wrench to just bend the top of the long side once mounted to be in-line and directly below chain travel.
It's not rocket science guys, it's just getting the roller straight under and in-line with chain.
You can mount the 2-pieces of it with the long side on the outside of the chain-stay or the inside, and just flip the wheel to the other side?
Most 2-stroke I have done like the long piece on the inside of the chain-stay side.
If your build is pulling the tensioner into the spokes it's because you have the long side of mount on the wrong side!
Also note that depending on your chain stay angle, you may need to twist the long side to be in-line with the chain.
I just use a crescent wrench to just bend the top of the long side once mounted to be in-line and directly below chain travel.
It's not rocket science guys, it's just getting the roller straight under and in-line with chain.
Last edited:
inspectorcritic
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Get an arc tension bar its long about 15 inch goes on from strut to strut no way in hell is it possible for to get into your spokes cost about 20 to 25 bucks I thinkyou would love the relief of worry and possible serious accident.
C
CarmanAdam
Guest
Hey Hi.
I've been through everything here. Some of the solutions mentioned are A-1 first class too BUT most gas bikers are the lowest paid people in the country.
EASIEST WAY TO KEEP ANY TENSIONER OUT OF THE SPOKES IS... mount the tensioner so that in the high stress events that snatch the tensioner, the roller wheel is inline to tapping into the RIM instead of the spokes. 100% perfect no cost problem solution. You may need to 'aim' roller a little more accurately in which case use an adjustable wrench open to 1/4" to tweak the angle of the roller once the tensioner bracket is firmly mounted. I also use an inch of garden hose on the frame/chainstay where the tensioner attaches for a rock solid shock absorbing clamped attachment. I never need any screws to keep the tensioner from twisting my way.
I've been through everything here. Some of the solutions mentioned are A-1 first class too BUT most gas bikers are the lowest paid people in the country.
EASIEST WAY TO KEEP ANY TENSIONER OUT OF THE SPOKES IS... mount the tensioner so that in the high stress events that snatch the tensioner, the roller wheel is inline to tapping into the RIM instead of the spokes. 100% perfect no cost problem solution. You may need to 'aim' roller a little more accurately in which case use an adjustable wrench open to 1/4" to tweak the angle of the roller once the tensioner bracket is firmly mounted. I also use an inch of garden hose on the frame/chainstay where the tensioner attaches for a rock solid shock absorbing clamped attachment. I never need any screws to keep the tensioner from twisting my way.
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