Chain tensioner in spokes

[Frankenstein]

Hey Hi.
I've been through everything here. Some of the solutions mentioned are A-1 first class too BUT most gas bikers are the lowest paid people in the country.
EASIEST WAY TO KEEP ANY TENSIONER OUT OF THE SPOKES IS... mount the tensioner so that in the high stress events that snatch the tensioner, the roller wheel is inline to tapping into the RIM instead of the spokes. 100% perfect no cost problem solution. You may need to 'aim' roller a little more accurately in which case use an adjustable wrench open to 1/4" to tweak the angle of the roller once the tensioner bracket is firmly mounted. I also use an inch of garden hose on the frame/chainstay where the tensioner attaches for a rock solid shock absorbing clamped attachment. I never need any screws to keep the tensioner from twisting my way.

Most? Lowest paid? What are you even doing here spouting such things lol..

The easiest way to keep that out is just don't use it. There are better versions that are safer. Or just get a shift kit and avoid the hassle all together.

 

[gary55]

Hey Hi.
I've been through everything here. Some of the solutions mentioned are A-1 first class too BUT most gas bikers are the lowest paid people in the country.
EASIEST WAY TO KEEP ANY TENSIONER OUT OF THE SPOKES IS... mount the tensioner so that in the high stress events that snatch the tensioner, the roller wheel is inline to tapping into the RIM instead of the spokes. 100% perfect no cost problem solution. You may need to 'aim' roller a little more accurately in which case use an adjustable wrench open to 1/4" to tweak the angle of the roller once the tensioner bracket is firmly mounted. I also use an inch of garden hose on the frame/chainstay where the tensioner attaches for a rock solid shock absorbing clamped attachment. I never need any screws to keep the tensioner from twisting my way.

A garden hose, really, this is what your giving us?

 

[Steve Best]

Actually CarmanAdam makes some good points:
1) Many of us motorized bike riders are of necessity a fugal bunch.
2) Mounting the tensioner next to the rim will save spokes if it does twist.
3) You can angle or bend to aim a mostly clamped tensioner with an adjustable wrench
4) Garden hose between the chain stay and the tensioner clamp may help the grip.
5) Screws into the chain stay are not needed (and weaken the chain stay)

The garden hose idea has merit, but some hoses are made of poly plastic or even teflon lined. Neither increases friction and grip. An old fashioned rubber hose would have a lot of friction when clamped and help prevent scratches to the chain stay. Likewise, vinyl electrical tape is not so good but electrical rubber (mastic,build, shaping, self fusing) tape has awesome grip.

I did originally have my tensioner close to the rim but found I got a lot of oscillating sway with my chain as slack developed. Mounting it at the 1/3rd point nearer the back sprocket worked best for me. I have the same problem with another bike where the top chain will catch the tire when not powered, and start this wild oscillation. I solved it by adding another tensioner on top barely touching the chain and keeping it away from the tire.

I don't think I am anywhere near being the lowest paid in the country, but I am frugal.
A man dreams of being rich enough to buy his woman anything she desires.
A woman dreams of finding that man!

Steve

 

[Frankenstein]

Actually CarmanAdam makes some good points:
1) Many of us motorized bike riders are of necessity a fugal bunch.
2) Mounting the tensioner next to the rim will save spokes if it does twist.
3) You can angle or bend to aim a mostly clamped tensioner with an adjustable wrench
4) Garden hose between the chain stay and the tensioner clamp may help the grip.
5) Screws into the chain stay are not needed (and weaken the chain stay)

The garden hose idea has merit, but some hoses are made of poly plastic or even teflon lined. Neither increases friction and grip. An old fashioned rubber hose would have a lot of friction when clamped and help prevent scratches to the chain stay. Likewise, vinyl electrical tape is not so good but electrical rubber (mastic,build, shaping, self fusing) tape has awesome grip.

I did originally have my tensioner close to the rim but found I got a lot of oscillating sway with my chain as slack developed. Mounting it at the 1/3rd point nearer the back sprocket worked best for me. I have the same problem with another bike where the top chain will catch the tire when not powered, and start this wild oscillation. I solved it by adding another tensioner on top barely touching the chain and keeping it away from the tire.

I don't think I am anywhere near being the lowest paid in the country, but I am frugal.
A man dreams of being rich enough to buy his woman anything she desires.
A woman dreams of finding that man!

Steve

Personally we've been using emery cloth folded over with the sand side out, roll it over the stay at 4 layers thick and it holds up indefinitely.. I used the non slip backed sandpaper by 3m to keep handlebar things from rotating and it also keeps the poly plastic grip material on the throttle (which is a plastic or nylon tube on the inside, making the grip slide off or twist on the throttl.le)
Just take a long inch wide strip and fold it over the end of the bar and slide the grip back on.

When I first got into these bikes and tried to work with that f***ing tensioner I ended up drilling a quarter inch hole in the tensioner plate near the wheel and bolted aluminum flat to it. The other end was bolted to the cargo rack and bent accordingly to align the tensioner, then jammed a flat diamond grit file (one of harbor frieghts indispensable tools) between my stay and the tensioner and tightened it down good.

Either or probably would have sufficed but I was really upset and went about removing the problem entirely and indefinitely..

Later on I used the same tensioner but without the aluminum and replaced the bolt that holds the wheel in place with something longer, and used a few springs and steel cable to make it spring loaded.

It didn't fail, and made removing the rear wheel significantly easier since I could get enough slack in the chain to slip it off the wheel when I actually wanted to.

 

[Frankenstein]