Choke Settings

Discussion in '2-Stroke Engines' started by Marktur, May 30, 2008.

  1. Marktur

    Marktur Member

    Well...I did 2 things today at the same time, and wondering if anyone can tell me why my motor was so happy today coming in to work:

    Until today, at lower speeds (<17mph) I would feel inconsistancy and slight hesitations in the motor. I was telling myself that it's switching back and forth from 4-stroking to 2-stroking because of my mixture. So the day before last, I moved the e-clip on the needle valve down (1 step) to the lowest position. That certainly improved things a bit, but didn't make the hesitation go away at lower speeds.

    Today, for kicks, I:

    1. Added a bit more oil to the mixture (I truly do not think this had an effect)
    2. From the completely down position, I moved the choke lever up about 1/4"

    I think the little bit of choke that I added in smoothed it all out at low to mid range on the motor, which is where I'm usually cruising at. Seemed a lot smoother.

    So...question is: what exactly does choking do? It is limiting air or fuel flow? With the positive results I'm seeing, should I make a different adjustment to the motor, or just ride from now on with a little bitta choke?

    Thanks,
    Mark

    PS. I will be picking up 2 new NGK plugs this afternoon...not sure how a better plug will add to the mix, but I need to understand the choke first so I can do this scientifically. (Yes, I know I shouldn't have made 2 changes at the same time, and I won't do that again...) :)
     

  2. Choking limits the air to the engine. Did you oring the carby? What does your plug look like?
     
  3. spad4me

    spad4me Member

    If you add choke for example lift the choke lever and your warmed up engine runs better..
    You have an air leak somewhere.
    When the engine is warm lifting the choke lever all the way up should kill the engine.

    Did you seal the carb to manifold with red RTV, dont forget to seal the intake manifold to engine with rtv as well.

    On my kings engine when I hit a big enough bump my carb to manifold joint loosens even with a hoseclamp and rtv . My performance goes way down and I know its time for some maintenance. LOL
     
    Last edited: May 30, 2008
  4. Marktur

    Marktur Member

    Hi George,
    No - I didn't get the o-ring yet. Can you tell me the diameter of the one you used? I'll go straight to Lowes in a bit. Also - didn't look at the plug yet - but I ordered a couple of NGK's which will be waiting for me when I arrive at Discount Auto Parts later. I would rather drop in a new plug, then try to read it....I don't know if it's a fair reading against the plug you use to break it in, because we know it's running rich with oil.

    Spad4Me - I bought BLUE RTV...still at home in the packaging, but I'll use it tonight. I will also pick up gasket material at the autoparts shop just in case one rips. (I'm assuming that I coat the gasket itself on each side, right?) I use the choke to kill the motor, but I only lifted it about 1/4" and it improved the way it ran...sounds like an air leak?

    Thanks, guys!
    I'll let you know the results tomorrow...
     
  5. Marktur

    Marktur Member

    Is the blue RTV OK? (Is it a blue tube with red stuff inside?)? Not sure if I should return what I have or if it's the right stuff...I think the blue was for high heat...

    Thanks for the link - heading out to get it now.
    Mark
     
  6. Marktur

    Marktur Member

    Last question (I'm a pain, sorry)...
    I want to replace the studs, although I'm having no issues now, I've read too many posts about broken studs...so I can easily get them out now before they break.

    What is the replacement? Wouldn't bolts be better? I thought I read they were different lengths, too....anyone know what size bolts that will work?
     
  7. spad4me

    spad4me Member

    The rtv blue or red should work on the intake to engine area.
    It should also work to seal the carb to the intake manifold tube.
    Instead of an o ring you will be gluing your carb to your manifold.
    Smear a small amount of rtv on to the end of the manifold. Install the carb. Let cure. Enjoy!!
     
  8. KiDD

    KiDD Member

    I know a little something about broken studs.... since this engine is from china it uses all metric hardware. You want to pick up some M6 all threaded rod of the highest quality steel you can find... which isn't as easy as you would think. I suggest http://www.mcmaster.com/ I haven't personally used this site yet, but I am about to order more becuase the stuff I bought locally seems to be of low quality.... The part number for the M6 grade 8 (the highest grade available) is 99055A120 just do a search for that in McMaster It's $2.10 for a meter
     
  9. Huntington

    Huntington Member

    Just wanted to throw my .02 in. McMaster is a great resource. An industrial power house in tools and material. They have been around forever and have good quality products. I use them every day at work. Safe bet youll get a good product.
     
  10. pedalpower

    pedalpower Member

    wow, I just ordered 4 meters (can you say overkill?). It would appear that 2.10 includes shipping (ground). sweet.

    oh, I just read: Applicable shipping charges and tax will be added.

    I will update when I find out what they are (unless someone knows). I was not disclosed when I placed the order.
     
    Last edited: Jul 11, 2008
  11. Skyliner70cc

    Skyliner70cc Active Member

    OP, take carb filter off and take a peek inside. Your question as to how a choke works would be answered easily.
     
  12. Simonator

    Simonator Guest

    Yep, Think about it. The word choke. It means an obstruction of airflow into an organism's lungs. the choke on an engine is pretty much the same thing. Not to lungs, but the cylinder which sucks air in like lungs.
     
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