Clutch cam shaft/release lever adjustment

[gearhead437]

Dear Fellow motorheads,
Unlike my 49cc build, the clutch lever camshaft and release lever assembly were assembled so that the cam face is not parallel to the bucking bar surface when at rest. Instead, it's angled enough that the shaft cam is only a mm or so clear of the bucking bar face. I don't know if this assembly is tapered, but I don't have the tools to separate the shaft and lever to reassemble correctly to have more of a gap. As inexpensive as these parts are, I ordered another one with the sprocket cover, bucking bar and ball. The E-Bay post shows the assembly apart-let's hope it's that way when I receive it. Any detailed information on this adjustment is greatly appreciated-Gearhead437

 

[Chainlube]

You need a hammer and vise to separate them. Use the nut provided.

 

[gearhead437]

Thanx Chainlube-If I only had a vise. Have plenty of hammers!-Gearhead437

 

[Chainlube]

Thanx Chainlube-If I only had a vise. Have plenty of hammers!-Gearhead437

Maybe drill a hole in a chunk of wood? Rest leg in the hole with the arm across the top and tap it out.

 

[GW's Motorized]

Harbor freight has some really cheap and decent vises

 

[gearhead437]

I totally agree, but one needs a workbench, and space for a workbench, which I don't have. The hole in the 4 x 4 is a great idea though!-Gearhead437

 

[GW's Motorized]

I totally agree, but one needs a workbench, and space for a workbench, which I don't have. The hole in the 4 x 4 is a great idea though!-Gearhead437

It's easy enough to build a stand for one with some scrap wood. There are ways around working in confined spaces.

 

[ImpulseRocket]

You don't need a vice. Mainly, just a hole for the actuator/cam shaft to pass through, but that supports the lever arm around the area where the shaft passes through it. Then just a good sized punch and a hammer. Just need to drive it off the splines.

I've used a good solid chunk of hard wood and just drilled a hole in it of the right size just like Chainlube described. I just backed it with a couple of bricks on each side to give it room and some support.

 

[gearhead437]

Does any one have any feedback on clutch bucking bar lever and shaft cam orientation in relation to the face of the bucking bar that it contacts?-Gearhead437

 

[gearhead437]

Dear Fellow Motorheads-Update-Discovered that the clutch release lever was pressed too far counterclockwise on the bucking bar cam shaft, which caused the lever to travel way too far underneath the carb float bowl when the clutch lever was fully actuated with the clutch adjusted for about 1/8" max travel.

I only know this because my 49cc Grubbee lever was almost parallel to its housing before tension was applied and the cam face engaged with the bucking bar to release the clutch assembly. My local machine shop , which repressed this assembly for a small fee, also noticed that a replacement drive gear cover I brought along had MUCH less play between the release lever assembly cam shaft and it's shaft hole, as compared to the one that came with the 66cc Pk80 engine from California Bikes.

I also used plenty of Park grease on the camshaft before installation. Perhaps Grubbees have better quality control than some other engines. The 49cc Grubbee kit cost me about $180.00 about 15 years ago and Grubbee engines can still cost more than many other engines, including the 66cc Pk80's from California Motorbikes.

I just know that I never had this issue with my Grubbee 49cc , never had the main clutch assembly retaining nut spin off and never had the chain eat a big chunk out of the drive gear cover due to poor manufacturing tolerances. This is all within the first 5 miles after installation.

The magneto coil assembly air gap was also WAY off, but I understand that this is a common problem with many 2 stroke motobike engines. I fully understand that these motorized bike engines can have multiple QA issues, but it is frustrating when one mentions these issues to the supplier and they provide no positive feedback, much less constructive information on how to correct these issues, much less any excuses or apologies on the lack of QA before shipping.

I am posting this information primarily for any of the other newbies who might encounter similar issues. FWIW, I used blue loctite on the necessary fasteners, Park grease on certain friction surfaces, Tri-Flo in my cables and aluminum antisieze on fasteners that don't easily tighten with adequate torque-Gearhead437