Coil Ground Issue Resolved

Discussion in 'Electrical' started by Sgt. Howard, Dec 4, 2011.

  1. Sgt. Howard

    Sgt. Howard Member

    OK- some time back I was told about the problem with the ground lead off the magneto coil. I followed the directions I got and solved the problem- now others want to know what I done.The first shows the offending connection. Next is the problem being solved with judiciouse soldering. Third shows the finished solution. Hope this helps:army:
     

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  2. Sgt. Howard

    Sgt. Howard Member

    PS and BTW- I routinely do this on ANY HT motor I purchase BEFORE installation- saves time...
    the Old Sgt.
     
  3. Big Red

    Big Red Active Member

    Ground.

    Thanks Sarge. I still ain't had time to get to my shop, but I think this is exactly my problem on that stubborn beast. I'll let you know how it works out.
    Big Red.
     
  4. Big Red

    Big Red Active Member

    Coil Ground

    I've been racking my poor little pea brain for over a week trying to get this bike to pop. The Old Sarge suggested it might be a bad coil ground. I had already gone through EVERYTHING.(not even a sputter.) I just soldered the ground wire to the coil as Sarge suggested and guess what, IT"S ALIVE!!! I'm going to make this the FIRST THING I DO to every build from now on. I was getting spark, fuel and air and NOTHING. one little soldering job and it's done.
    So Thanks again Sarge, Don't ever leave us. :bowdown:
    Big Red.
     
  5. Sgt. Howard

    Sgt. Howard Member

    For those bewildered by this post- IF you own a HT/China Girl/Flying Horse/Grubee or similar aluminum two-stroke high-strung smoke belching rattletrap parading as a motor, and for reasons known only to the deities of petrocarbon it decides to not function in spite of spark/fuel/air/compression being present, I suggest you run one more test...
    Take the contraption to the top of a good sized hill with a decent road. Push off, pop the clutch once you have sufficient speed. If the engine runs untill RPM drops below mid-cruise speed, then here is the issue- the cheesy aforementioned solderjoint between coil and magneto frame has come partially undone, causing only a partial charge to reach the sparkplug- enough to fool the eye but not enough to fire the cylinder untill the magneto reaches high enough RPM. Talk about frustrating... somebody else que'd me on that, I wish I remember his name- either this site or the other one, he saved me my wits, my sanity, possibly my marriage and certainly my motorbike. Tip o' th' hat t' ye, m' boy... but here is the fruit of his wisdom, I hope it saves somebody a chunk of grief. The photos show how I resolved the issue by shaving off some insulation where the black wire crosses the solder joint and soldering it all together- as stated, I routinely perform this task before installing a chinese rattletrap on a bike. Mind you, I love the silly things well enough- but then, I've owned British sportscars and loved them as well. Same masochisem. The whole trick is learning how to solve problems as or before they occur.
    I will pass on more tricks as they are brought to my attention.
    the Old Sgt.:army:
     
  6. dennis

    dennis New Member

    cant get the solder to stic to the magneto am afraid of overheating the magneto and meltig the inner coil wire insulation have tried 4 kinds of solder and three differend types of soldering irons whats up?
     
  7. Big Red

    Big Red Active Member

    Solder

    I used flux and a mini torch. Yeah, ya gotta get it hot. If that don't work I might have a last resort idea.
    Big Red.
     
  8. Al.Fisherman

    Al.Fisherman Active Member

    First of all I discard the stock ground wire and use a much better wire and lug. A 14-16 gauge will do. I also remove the coil and take it to my wire wheel (sandpaper will do) and buff the coil where the ground will be hooked up. I have never had a grounding problem. Just make sure the ground lug makes good contact with the coil as there are at times a coating on the coil, hampering a good contact. Yes solder is best, but I haven't had to go that far. Oh and the WHITE wire...I remove it from the coil completely, and trash it. Also re-solder the BLUE wire (also replaced with a better wire) to avoid cold solder joints.
     
    Last edited: Feb 1, 2012
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