Ebay 49cc kit...leftover parts identification.

Discussion in 'General Questions' started by Kenny's ID, Oct 8, 2016.

  1. Kenny's ID

    Kenny's ID New Member

    Hi, I have these leftover from the common 2 stroke gas engine kit on my little Sidewinder hybrid (didn't use the instructions...much, and with my eyes, can hardly make out those small pics in the directions) and would guess one of the springs go on the clutch cable between the arm and end of cable mount on the engine...which one, please?

    The other 3 pieces, black rubber washer, other spring, and bent metal strip...I have no idea where they go?

    Also, while I have you here... not pictured is the bottom mount for the muffler. I can't be the only one who is tempted not to install that, but just wanted to see what y'all do...leave it off or use it? there must be a reason for it but the exhaust seems so solid without it.

    Oh, one more thing, can I use standard pipe thread tape to seal the gas valve that screws into the tank?

    Thanks a bunch.



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  2. Kenny's ID

    Kenny's ID New Member

    OK, got the 2 springs...big one cable heat shield and small one for what I thought.

    The metal strip might be important, but that washer concerns me the most.

    Edit: got to snooping around youtube and see the washer seals the gas valve so that solves two more questions, where the washer goes and drops the need for pipe thread tape.

    So the questions of if you use the bottom exhaust mount and where that one metal strip goes remain.
     
    Last edited: Oct 8, 2016
  3. crassius

    crassius Well-Known Member

    I never use the small spring.
     
  4. Kenny's ID

    Kenny's ID New Member

    I had put it together without the small spring and it worked just fine...maybe even better than when I installed it so, I'm inclined to remove it.

    I doubt they make such a thing, but I'm going to have to cut these clutch and gas cables back, they are just entirely too long and after trying to wrap them around a bar, they just won't work right. Do they make a screw on end or something to replace the end of the cable sheath? I'm sure cutting the sheath back and just taping it back together will be fine for awhile but I'd rather do something a little better than that.
     
  5. crassius

    crassius Well-Known Member

    clutch is easy to cut, use acid-core solder on the place where you want to cut the inner and cut right in middle of soldered part so it won't unravel - trim outer to match while filing or grinding any sharp points off the coiled core. Throttle cable is not so easy (don;t even risk working with carb end as a fail there will drop a metal piece into motor), but grip end is ok if you have a barrel & are good at soldering or if you have a screw-on cable knarp.
     
  6. Frankenstein

    Frankenstein Active Member

    As an added example for soldering the cable, drill a cable end size hole in a piece of wood nearish an edge, drill a tiny cable sized hole perpendicular to it from the edge into the hole. Stick the cable end into the tiny hole and then fill the large hole with Flux, for some unknown reason my water soluble Flux works better than my rosin Flux on cables. Heat the hole with propane or mapp (recomended) a bit to melt the Flux a tad, then start introducing silver bearing solder with acid core to the hole while applying fire directly to the hole. Add solder till the hole's filled then let cool. Remove with small knife or sharp screwdriver and touch up shape with files or dremel tool.

    I did this on both throttle and carb side sized ends reliably. Last time I did it I worked on the carb side and used a belt sander (closest tool to Me and I was feeling lazy) to fix it up nice no problems at all.
     
  7. Kenny's ID

    Kenny's ID New Member

    I really only had to shorten the sheave on the clutch cable, thank goodness but those tips are great for the throttle... if I'm up to it. For some reason, I hadn't considered the hassle to replace the catches on the ends, I guess because I've only cut back brake cables in the past, and am now wondering if it might be best just to try to buy a shorter throttle cable or try to deal with what I have?

    I had to go with a thumb gas throttle because the bike shifter was on the grip, plus I had to get the electric thumb throttle in there where I could get to both throttles right thumb so I ended up with an Ebay duel brake lever with built in gas thumb throttle. I'll have to see if there is room for some type of, what did you call it...knarp? ... at least I now have key word to search for it.

    I may start another thread on this but what appears to be the last issue with this build, is the carburetor not being level. I purchased 2 offset manifolds and neither of them would make the carb end up level. I had too little room to tilt the engine where I wanted it. I've heard I can cut the manifold bend it and then have that gap welded...any other solutions for that? There just isn't room for any more tilt on the engine

    Thanks for the tips.
     
    Last edited: Oct 9, 2016
  8. Kenny's ID

    Kenny's ID New Member

    Oh, I meant to ask, on the carb level problem. I can turn one of those manifolds upside down and it comes out of the left side of the bike where the carb fits almost perfectly, is plenty level and I can easily get to the adjustment. Only problem is, it hits the clutch lever. It looks like I can get a puller an pull the lever off turn it towards the engine and put it back on and still have plenty of travel to actuate the clutch as well as room for the carb. However I put a chisel under it and knocked it a few times...not enough to break the block but it really should have moved off it's spines some, but didn't. Any advice on if that will even come off? I guess if they put it on there it will come off, but I just don't want to break anything. It would sure save me the trouble on getting the manifold level, but seems to be a matter of which solution is more trouble than the other.
     
  9. Frankenstein

    Frankenstein Active Member

    Yeah first take note of the current angle the arm sits on the splines at, usually marking with a file will do just fine.

    Now lay the clutch post in a vice so the long end and tiny bit of the other edge sits on top of the jaws. Make sure the retaining nut is off, then tap the exposed end lightly with a hammer and it should come free of the splines, readjust and install nut then install clutch arm post and ride.

    You can also drop the post into a 10mm wrench end and hold the wrench down with a brick on a table or bench, use hammer for post again.
     
  10. Kenny's ID

    Kenny's ID New Member

    Sounds good, I was thinking about it last night and just knocking it out should work as well as a puller. I'm working without a shop here but, I'll come up with something. I haven looked at it closely because it's full of grease right now, but if I don't investigate it before I get back here, what holds the actuating rod that the lever is attached to (clutch post), in it's hole in the side plate? Has to be some kind of clip? Thanks Frank
     
    Last edited: Oct 10, 2016
  11. crassius

    crassius Well-Known Member

    take cover off & turn arm till it points straight toward clutch - it comes right out

    in the past, I've had good luck with left side carbs by carefully bending that arm down just a bit to be under the carb - it's just tack welded to the shaft, so take it off to bend it
     
  12. Frankenstein

    Frankenstein Active Member

    Oh yeah it's sometimes tack welded if it is it won't tap off. Forgot about that.

    It's a small pin that holds the shaft in the hole, i don't recommend bending or tapping the arm while it's installed, it can sheer the pin off and then you be sad.
     
  13. Kenny's ID

    Kenny's ID New Member

    On this particular one, there is either nothing holding it in or I broke the pin already. I didn't see the pin fall out and a print of the clutch assembly didn't show anything holding it in so, it's very possible, since it has to be turned quit a bit for it to unlock, that's all there is to it. Actually when I think about it, there was no hole for a pin, just a groove somewhere around the center of the rod.

    At any rate, got it out, moved over and back on, but there was no way I could really tell till it was out of the way that the cover is now in the way. I can either take some off the cover or try to extend the pipe...it only needs about a half inch. Most likely, if I fit it well, a hose clamp and a piece if rubber tire tube will seal it, but I'm looking into trying to solder it now. It will entail aluminum pipe which I have that fits into the carb nicely and the, what appears to be the chrome plated manifold.

    I get by but I'm no pro on soldering, but see on youtube this can likely be done with aluminum brazing rod and a torch. I haven't looked into it enough to find if I could just do it with standard solder/flux...do you think that is possible? I'll go look closely and see what my best bet is..grinding, or adding to the length of the manifold.
     
  14. Kenny's ID

    Kenny's ID New Member

    The grinding isn't really an option, so I just clamped then extension on, and will order some rods and solder it together whenever. It's sealed tight and doesn't look too bad as it is.. Hopefully that's the worst of finishing it, but I have yet to test it so...might be back. Thanks again. :)
     
  15. Kenny's ID

    Kenny's ID New Member

    Obviously I missed your post, but all went well with the removal. No tack weld on this one that I could see, but it was on there tight.

    FWIW, with that arm moved over, one can see, the angle lines up better with part that retains the end of the sheath and the pull from the hand clutch lever is smoother and lighter. Feels much better.
     
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