Engine won't turn over when pedaling

Discussion in 'General Questions' started by CHVYPWR, Aug 4, 2010.

  1. CHVYPWR

    CHVYPWR New Member

    I've got a new unfired engine that I just installed. I can turn it over by hand with the plug out. When I pedal trying to start, I get friction and resistance but the engine wont turn over. I get maybe two rotations of the engine within 60 ft of pedaling. This is with the clutch cable completely undone (ruled out cable mis-adjustment). Do I have a bad clutch right out of the box? Is there a trick to getting the engine to turn over?
     

  2. GearNut

    GearNut Active Member

    It sounds like your clutch is slipping.
    It could be:
    1. There is oil or grease on the clutch friction pads, outer or inner clutch pressure plate.
    2. The friction pads need light trimming to fit properly in their pockets.
    3. Either the flower nut needs adjusting or the internal clutch spring needs adjusting.
    4. The pinion gear, clutch hub, or the chain sprocket is slipping on it's shaft due to the woodruff key being sheared or completely missing.
    With a brand new engine any of the above are possible.
     
    Last edited: Aug 4, 2010
  3. motorpsycho

    motorpsycho Active Member

    put all of your body weight over the rear wheel when you let the clutch out, while sitting on the seat. if you have a 10 speed style seat, sit as far back as you can with your weight over the rear tire.
    I had the same problem on one of my bikes, and as soon as a sat as far back as possible, it fired right up.
     
  4. dougsr.874

    dougsr.874 Active Member

    I have the same problem with dual start engine I bought off of ebay...Take the clutch cover off on right side of engine (as you sit on the bike)....there is a weird looking nut in the center of the clutch....remove the small screw so you can take a screwdriver and hammer and tighten the flower nut .....be sure to replace the small screw ::....thats the only way I could get mine to start...however, it will burn the clutch pads if you get the nut too tight.....
     
  5. GearNut

    GearNut Active Member

    NOOOOOOO!!!!!
    WAIT!!!!
    You never ever need to use a hammer and or anything else to hit that flower nut to adjust it.
    1. Remove the lock screw
    2. Squeeze in the clutch hand lever until it rests against the hand grip and hold it there with tape or a piece of wire.
    3. Push in on the outer clutch plate with one hand and with the other hand turn the flower nut with your fingertips.

    I typically set the flower nut by turning it all the way in snug, not tight.
    Then turn it back out 1 1/2 turns aligning one of the notches with the hole for the lock screw. Install the lock screw snug but don't tighten it yet......

    4. Remove the tape or wire from the clutch hand lever and let the clutch handle release all the way out.
    Now tighten the lock screw and the clutch should be happy.

    5. Readjust the clutch cable if necessary to leave only a little bit of slack in the cable when the clutch lever is all the way out.
     
    Last edited: Aug 6, 2010
  6. 5-7HEAVEN

    5-7HEAVEN Guest

    Yank out that Chinese engine and install a 350/350/9".:idea:

    Sorry, with a handle like yours, I just HAD to say that. lol:jester:
     
  7. GearNut

    GearNut Active Member

    I want that combo in a '32 Ford or Chevy truck.
     
  8. CHVYPWR

    CHVYPWR New Member


    Thanks! Thats good info, I'll give it a check.:cool: Sucks though, right out of the box I expect stuff to work properly.:veryangry:
     
  9. CHVYPWR

    CHVYPWR New Member

    Thats the standard "what should I do with my 305" answer.:grin5:
     
  10. 5-7HEAVEN

    5-7HEAVEN Guest

    Okay then, 305/350/8".:devilish:
     
  11. CHVYPWR

    CHVYPWR New Member

    Gearnut, I followed your adjustment directions. I got it to fire and run, but the clutch still slipped. So much so that I couldn't give it full throttle. About 3/4 of a miles rode at this point. I took the clutch pads out and sprayed cleaner in and got rid of a greasey residue that was in there. I took it back out and it worked great with no slipping for about a 3/4 of a mile, then the clutch went bye-bye. No grip at all. This clutch material IMO is junk! It's way too soft! Is there a better clutch pad out there in the aftermarket?
     
  12. GearNut

    GearNut Active Member

    Stop the train!
    The friction pads in these cheap engines rarely give anyone fits when the clutch is properly set up.
    Ok, the actual clutch spring may be set a little on the soft side. Once again, chalk it up to cheap quality control in China.
    Here's how to adjust it:
    (Refer to the link to the parts blow up from Bicycle engines . com for identification of parts)
    http://www.bicycle-engines.com/2stroke-parts-clutch-assembly-c-4_7.html
    1. Remove clutch cable from release arm on the sprocket cover and from the cable stop on top of engine case (#35).
    2. Remove the cable stop from the top of the case (#35). Unscrew the lock nut around the bottom of the cable stop first, enough to release it from locking the cable stop from turning. Unscrew the cable stop from the case.
    3. Remove the sprocket cover being careful to get the bucking bar and bearing ball if they try to fall out (#25 and #24) ((they call the bucking bar a "cam pin" in this diagram))
    4. Insert a medium sized yet strong flat bladed screwdriver down into the hole that the cable stop was screwed into. What you are trying to do is get the blade of the screwdriver down into one of the four slots cut into the outer edge of the threaded clutch spring adjusting nut (#16).
    You will have to feel for it when it slips down into one of the slots.
    It is not directly underneath the hole but a little closer to the clutch.
    5. Once you feel it drop onto a slot, hold the screwdriver there or have an assistant hold it for you.
    6. Use a socket on the sprocket nut to turn the nut, sprocket and shaft assembly 1 turn clockwise, the same direction you would turn the nut to tighten it.
    1 turn should be plenty but a few are stupid loose from the factory and you may need to tighten it some more. Do not overtighten it because doing so will cause the clutch to not release properly and/ or you risk snapping the pindle (#21)
    It is better to sneak up on the correct setting than try to get it done on one operation.
    I know it's a PITA but better safe than sorry, eh?
    7. Reassemble the whole mess, taking the time to clean everything and put a blob of fresh grease inside the hollow sprocket shaft before reinstalling the bearing ball and bucking bar.

    Please ask more questions if any of this seems a bit fuzzy.
     
  13. fritznbud

    fritznbud Member

    Gearnut, Hey there, i'm going through the no clutch syndrome too. I searched and read and performed every tip in every thread on here with no luck. Clutch pads removed and re-rounded, took off the ridge worn in to them. Cleaned off all clutch dust and i just tried the above post.The sprocket nut is as tight as can be. As of right now, my bike is a clutchless pedaler, and will stay that way unless some other idea comes up. What a drag............
     
  14. GearNut

    GearNut Active Member

    A clutchless pedaler, eh?
    I am assuming that your clutch is slipping.
    Is this correct?
     
  15. fritznbud

    fritznbud Member

    Yessir Gearnut, And after the time i've spent re-tightening and tinkering with this Chi-com wonder, i'm through with it. Thanks anyway. They sure look cool. Good luck-i'm outta here.............................
     
  16. GearNut

    GearNut Active Member

    Well if you want help getting to the bottom of the problem, we can work it out.
    Sometimes it is best to walk away from it for a while to work out the stresses they can create. Come back anytime. I would be glad to help you.
    If you lived near me I would come over and whip into shape for you.
     
    Last edited: Aug 11, 2010
  17. fritznbud

    fritznbud Member

    Thank you Gearnut, Your right! I've had to walk away from it. They certainly can create a stressful situation. Lucky for me, i have no place to ride anyway. I'm 7 miles away from where they filmed Deliverance. My neighbors are the extras from the movie, so i take my life in my hands when i hit the highway here.
     
  18. CHVYPWR

    CHVYPWR New Member


    That's the same boat I'm in! My clutch just will not grab!

    Gearnut, I too followed the directions you posted and still have no clutch. For sh!ts & grins I even took the internal adjustment all the way in and still nothing. The best I got it to grab got me 20 seconds of use before it completely lost grip again. In my experience of years working on and restoring cars, this clutch problem to me feels like a lack of clutch pressure. If I had this problem with a car clutch, a new pressure plate would be the answer. But, not sure what to think on this little engine since it is brand new. I'm going to see if BGF will at least give me a new set of clutch pads to try.:confused:
     
  19. fritznbud

    fritznbud Member

    Hey Chevypower, Hope ya dont mind me calling you that, since i'm a '55 owner and lover,...i would say the same thing. And what tears it, is that today it could be working decent and tomorrow it won't. And reading the past posts, new pads won't cure it, i tightened the flower nut down like you did with no luck and i have backed it out...only thing left is to stretch the spring in there and put more pressure on the works. I'd rather be wrenching on my 235 Blue Flame, or my 196 cu. in. Rambler, or my 1600 VW, or my 4.0 Jeep, or my 85HP jet boat, or my 80 cube HD or just sail away in my electrified sailboat. :)
     
  20. CHVYPWR

    CHVYPWR New Member

    I too have been deep into 235's ('52 Chevy convert) and 4.0's! Great reliable units there!
     
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