Finding a way to make Hydraulic clutch conversion real + easy to replicate

[ImpulseRocket]

I get doing this for tinkering purposes. From a practicality standpoint, converting one of these engines to hydraulic is about on the same level as using a hammer to break a sugar cube. Sure, it works, but it's entirely overkill.

 

[Wyvern]

I get doing this for tinkering purposes. From a practicality standpoint, converting one of these engines to hydraulic is about on the same level as using a hammer to break a sugar cube. Sure, it works, but it's entirely overkill.

I can see doing this if you have limited hand strength or arthritis issues.

For me it's free exercise for my "weak" arm.

 

[DAMIEN1307]

I can see doing this if you have limited hand strength or arthritis issues.

For me it's free exercise for my "weak" arm.

Get ya a Playboy magazine.

I really hope people are going to be able to restrain themselves so I do not have to delete any posts today...lol...Just saying.

 

[ImpulseRocket]

I can see doing this if you have limited hand strength or arthritis issues.

For me it's free exercise for my "weak" arm.

in my experience, most hydro clutches aren't a whole lot lighter than their cable equivalent. In theory it can be, but the master and slave cylinders have to meet travel criteria, which is often limited by to the mechanics of the clutch. My VFR1200 clutch is Hydraulic, and it's far from a light easy throw. Meanwhile, my 250cc enduro with upgraded clutch springs is a cable clutch and I can pull the lever with just my pinky.

I also have some experience with the hydro clutch setup that was posted earlier in this thread, and they are stiffer than you would think due to the master and slave piston sizes being fairly close to the same, which means there is very little hydraulic force multiplication going on.

 

[GW's Motorized]

I get doing this for tinkering purposes. From a practicality standpoint, converting one of these engines to hydraulic is about on the same level as using a hammer to break a sugar cube. Sure, it works, but it's entirely overkill.

I pretty much just want to see if I could get it to work.

 

[robe]

in my experience, most hydro clutches aren't a whole lot lighter than their cable equivalent. In theory it can be, but the master and slave cylinders have to meet travel criteria, which is often limited by to the mechanics of the clutch. My VFR1200 clutch is Hydraulic, and it's far from a light easy throw. Meanwhile, my 250cc enduro with upgraded clutch springs is a cable clutch and I can pull the lever with just my pinky.

I also have some experience with the hydro clutch setup that was posted earlier in this thread, and they are stiffer than you would think due to the master and slave piston sizes being fairly close to the same, which means there is very little hydraulic force multiplication going on.

The multiplication factor is limited by the length of the throw of the clutch lever itself. Can't overcome the mechanics of that, fingers are only so long.

 

[Chainlube]

The multiplication factor is limited by the length of the throw of the clutch lever itself. Can't overcome the mechanics of that, fingers are only so long.

Not really, there is a camover you can put in the cable that doubles the length of the pull. Like pull the cable 1/2" and the other end goes 1".

 

[robe]

Not really, there is a camover you can put in the cable that doubles the length of the pull. Like pull the cable 1/2" and the other end goes 1".

That's why I question the use of hydraulics in an application like this.

 

[Sketchy Chiropractor]

The design I was thinking of was on a push not a pull. I was thinking of eliminating the clutch arm all together and punching a hole in the side of the cover. Then use the push of the setup to push directly on the spot the stock clutch cam rode on.

I just finished doing this and it works great. I'll get a write-up done. I had to cut a new bucking bar from solid steel and have to clean that up a bit (divot on the end). But after a quick test ride it works great and no leaking