frame breaking at front mount

mich_wanderr

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Dec 2, 2010
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bristol.va.
has anyone had trouble with they're frame breaking where the motor mounts ?mines done it twice at a total of 50 dollors to have it fixed:geek:
 
...I've had broken bolts where it's rubbed a groove in the frame but nothing like that. Can you post pictures?
 
Did you use the cursed "drill a hole through your frame and put a bolt through it" front mount adapter? They are notorious for ruining many good bike frames.
 
Frame breakage is not uncommon whether it's a drill-through or wrap-around install.

This is a huge safety issue, too.

Like GearNut hinted at; you want to do anything but a drill-through.

Tilt the engine so that it's seated against the tubes as flatly as you possibly can. You don't want edges pushing against the tubes. You might need to fabricate larger mounts if your frame tubes are too big.

I also used strips of cheap leather belts for shims. I think this helped stop vibration and "slam" from damaging the tubes.

You should take this issue seriously and get it fixed once-and-for-all.

Good luck.
 
it's a 1995 schwinn chromoly clear creek. the first time he just welded it and i pulled the motor tilt down a bit and thats were it broke this time he welded a inner sleeve in the tube.no i didn't drill but the first break was on the hole for thee drink holder.
 
Sleeving the frame tubing will certainly strengthen it. Perhaps your frame may be made of a thinner wall tubing to save weight? I don't really know.....
Schwinn frames typically hold up well to engines mounted in them.
Hmmmm....... How much vibration do you get out of your engine?
Could it be stressing the frame too much?
Are the engine mounts square and flat to the frame or is there an air gap between the mount on the engine and frame tubing, top/ bottom or center?
 
i have put innertube and know have leather between motor and frame.i do get a lot of vibration but the leather seems dampen itthanks for getting back with me and i'll be in touch.this bike is a every day comutter i have a trailer to do laundry and shopping and taking the dog to the park.when i figure the pic thing i'll post some
 
Be very watchful of your motor mount studs. Any sort of padding or cushioning between the engine mounts and frame is known to break the mounting studs.
All padding does is transfer the stresses of vibration from the frame and mounts which typically can handle it to the mounts alone and the studs are the weak link.
 
the studs broke the day after i put the leather in, hey if i didn't have to work on it it just would be as fun!my local hardwear does well at haveing studs and nuts,drills and taps.hey if the frame breaks again i have a specialized 'ground controll'what do to think about alum frames?its a full suspension
 
Hi Mich, I had a front downtube crack on a Micargi cruiser and that was what taught me that Micargis just weren't good enough for motorising. To fix it it needed a thicker tube steel pipe sleeve inserted over the break and then welded around the ends. Filled and painted it was barely noticeable but if you looked closely you could see the bulge in the downtube. See attached pics.
Another Micargi snapped both top tubes at the junction with the seat tube - that needed solid bar inserts and welded up (see pics).
The moral of my story is never buy low quality bikes because they end up costing much more than a good Schwinn very quickly. (mind you Schwinn haven't made any good cruisers this year or last) Micargi steel tube is soft as cheese and doesn't resemble proper bike frame tubing in any way.
I have an alloy Schwinn 7 speed cruiser that has had a 66cc two stroke and two 50cc four stroke engines all frame-mounted and has 18,000kms on the clock and is still as good as new after nearly 4 years.

PICT0007.jpg

Micargi Touch 7.jpg

PICT0009A.jpg

PICT0014A.jpg

Weld_Job.jpg
 
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