Help re belt tightening on '99 WC1

Discussion in 'Whizzer Motorized Bicycles' started by dbertoncello, Sep 25, 2010.

  1. dbertoncello

    dbertoncello New Member

    Hi to this forum.
    I know this has been covered here multiple times, but I cannot for the life of me get my '99 WC1 belts tightened. I've read every post I can find, I've jiggled the motor around after loosing almost every nut on the bike, I've pried the engine forward and still can't get the primary belt tight. I just put on a new AX27 belt and no matter how much I try to tighten it up, you can still push straight down on the middle of the belt and it will easily bend all the way down to the four posts that hold the side panel on. Also, when I do try to pry the engine foward, the front clutch pulley and the rear pulley just move together and nothing gets tight. Any help would be appreciated. I have the service manual, but it's almost useless in that it doesn't show you clearly which nuts etc. to loosen or identify them. Runs Ok on the flats but will slip quite a bit on a hill.

    Also, I have tried to readjust the clutch cable after all my juggling around and it will not activate all the way when I pull in the lever...motor stalls out because it's not 'freewheeling'. Any help on this would also be appreciated!

    Thanks in advance from a newbie...this forum is great. Already talking to Quenten re new cylinder head for the Wheezer.

  2. RdKryton

    RdKryton Active Member

    Here is the belt tentioning info I got from Quenton a while back.

    First, it is important to note that I do things differently than most, but my Whizzers hold several speed records and some have even pulled "wheelies" at a recent competition event. I personally like the "notched" type belts, and use the Gates AX27 [Gates Tri-Power V-Belt] for the front belt, both on the automatic and manual clutch versions. The "vintage" Whizzers used an AX26 for the front. AX belts are marked differently and the numbers aren't the length, in fact they are 2" longer than the number indicates, therefore the AX 27 is 29" long same as a 4L290 from NAPA. NAPA even carries notched belts in odd sizes that start with numbers like XL 25 92XX, an example is XL 25 9265 [31/64" X 26 7/8"]. Once you have selected the new front belt, I suggest you remove the rear belt from the sheave, loosen all the motor mount bolts, move the motor around until the front belt is tight. Tighten the motor mount bolts, install the rear belt, and adjust the rear wheel to tighten the rear belt. If the rear belt can not be tightened either replace it with a AX belt that is the correct length [often the rear needs a 1" shorter belt than stock] or add extra lengths in the chain to allow the rear wheel to move rearward enough to make the belt tight [may need a half link kit that can be purchased at the average bicycle shop]. The most important thing to remember is to make both belts tight and if the rear is pulled too tight it will pull the pulley downward and loosen the front belt. Another option to consider is the use of the Whizzer belt tension kit [I think the part number is 3010, but not sure] because it allows you to use a belt for a very long time even when it stretches pass normal use.

    Whizzer OuterBanks,

    Here is another method I believe came from MotorbikeMike.

    Front belt, this belt needs to be nice and snug, and not slip.
    If you have problems starting your bike, you'll have belt slippage upon takeoff, and hills also. This belt should NOT slip when turning rear wheel by hand, or kickstarting.
    Adj ft belt, Other's with good ideas are welcome here, but my method is to cut a 2x4 in a very steep wedge when on the flat. one cut makes 2 wedges as you can use both pieces.
    Remove beltguard.
    Tap the wedge in behind the engine from the clutch side, to just above the chainguard on the other side. I use a rubber dead-blow (shot-filled) mallet for this purpose.
    Loosen the LOWER motormount nut ONLY, and tap in the wedge till your belt is nice and snug.
    Tighten the lower motormount nut (it is the one just above and forward of the Bottom Bracket), and tap out the wedge from the chainguard side.
    (Now, I can't really recommend that you test ride with guard off, but that is what I do.)
    Kick-start the bike, watch and feel for slippage. Then test ride, repeat if needed, and in my case I'll now re-install the belt-guard.
    Ok Amigo, now it's done!

    Good luck

    Funny, I answered this question on the other forum too. lol

    Last edited: Sep 27, 2010