Help with kill switch on 196cc Lifan motor

Discussion in 'General Questions' started by macarollo, Jan 10, 2009.

  1. macarollo

    macarollo Guest

    http://www.mfgsupply.com/m/c/31-8944.html?id=3GdzFjLc

    I bought this kill switch. I should have bought one with 2 wires coming from it, but I this one only has one.

    The engine has a kill switch on it, but I want to install one on my handlebars for safety reasons.

    Currently I have the kill switch clamped on my handlebars (on top of foam padding).

    How can I wire this up? Do I need to run another wire from the ground on the engine to the kill switch?
     

  2. 5-7HEAVEN

    5-7HEAVEN Guest

    :idea:You just need one wire.

    I ran my wire from handlebar to kill engine kill button. There are two wires on the button. One is to ground, the other to ignition. Temporarily connect to either button wire. Flip handlebar switch to "on". Start engine, then flip the handlebar switch. If engine dies, make permanent connection to this button wire. If engine does not die, make permanent connection to the other button wire to handlebar switch.

    Of course you could use an ohm meter or trouble light to determine which button wire is grounded.
     
  3. The switch needs to make contact with the metal on the handlebars, the switch itself is the second wire, shorting it to the handlebars......
     
  4. macarollo

    macarollo Guest

    So if it is clamped to metal on the bike it will work?

    Does the metal on the bike have to be touching/connected to the metal on the frame of the motor?

    It is a push trailer and I am not sure there is a current going from the frame of the trailer to the handlebars.
     
  5. 5-7HEAVEN

    5-7HEAVEN Guest

    In a normal motorized bike you just need one wire from switch to engine ignition. The switch itself is grounded to the handlebar when you screw it tightly down.

    With a trailer there might be an intermittent ground connection between bicycle and trailer frame. You could try it normalized with one wire. If engine does not turn off, clamp 12" of bare wire at the bicycle/trailer connection.

    That should repair the loose ground connection.
     
  6. 5-7HEAVEN

    5-7HEAVEN Guest

    Yes, the switch MUST be clamped on bike metal to work.

    Yes, the bike metal MUST be touching/connected to the motor frame. If you insulate the engine mounts, you MIGHT have to run a grounding strap from engine to bike frame.

    There is no current flowing in the bike and trailer frames UNTIL the switched is thrown.

    In a normal motorized bike you just need one wire from switch to engine ignition. The switch itself is grounded to the handlebar when you screw it tightly down.

    With a trailer there might be an intermittent ground connection between bicycle and trailer frame. You could try it normalized with one wire. If engine does not turn off, clamp 12" of bare wire at the bicycle/trailer connection.

    That should repair the loose ground connection.
    __________________
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jan 10, 2009
  7. ZnsaneRyder

    ZnsaneRyder Member

    On my bike trailer, I run an extra ground wire (2 grounds total) so I have a proper kill switch, and also ground for the lights on the trailer, and good connection to the battery. The point I make here, is not to trust the Ground connection of the constantly moving bike-to-trailer, but to use a wire to be sure.

    I had bad issues with that same type kill switch on a tricycle; To make sure your kill switch is grounded good, scratch away some paint on your handlebar, and also jumper a ground wire from the metal kill switch body, to the handlebar center front bolt to get even a much better ground, then run another wire from there to the trailer.

    For Example: On my trailer, I have an engine kill plug with 2 wires, one kill wire, and one Ground wire. This is so I can take the trailer off as needed. The ground wire plug on the trailer side wires directly to a metal bolt on the trailer. The ground wire on the bicycle side goes directly to my handlebar switchbox, which connects to the ground mounting bolt (handlebar bolt) because IMO it's a much better ground, because no paint, and was convienient for mounting.

    *When Electrically going from trailer body to the Handlebar bolt & kill switch with a wire, you can assure better safety, and that you won't have the trailer run away with you on the bike like an out of control horse, if you can't slow it down for any reason. :ee2k:
     
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