Honda GXH50 Governor Disconnection. Discussion & Pictures

Summary:
Take off all these parts and you'll have your governor disconnected...it should take 5-10 mins.
View attachment 6494
Also,see my post here of 02-11-2008....download the PDF & scroll down to get the GXH50,there you'll also find the Control Assembly.........THE END. :)


wow, i love exploded views! thanks much

be seeing you
 
I've heard that the hs carb is a good fit; does everyone here feel secure about using that china carb? could it be a better one than the one on the honda? i went with the japs on the engine and now see that i could probably figure out how to fab a throttle control but that takes time an could overload my fragmented brain. So i guess i'm asking; which road do you take?

be seeing you

Answer: http://www.motoredbikes.com/showpost.php?p=272474&postcount=30
 
For the benefit of those who will travel this road eventually, here is how I did mine.
I removed the screw and nut and inserted a knife with just enough force to open the grip placed on the governor control rod protruding from the engine, now I will insert a thin piece of metal in this pressure slit or whatever it is called and put the screw and nut back on and tighten.
It doesn't matter if the little rod turns now, there is nothing holding it.
Now I will use the arm for the throttle control, I will addsomething to connect the cable directly to the arm using one of the available little holes already drilled.
What do you guys think?
edit: added one more pic, the only think I could find in a hurry.
 

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So long as the governor isn't working it will be OK. I still think the easiest way is to totally disconnect and install a HuaSheng carb with full throttle control fittings but the way you are doinfg it is similar to how Jimraysr did it and he had no problems.
 
For the benefit of those who will travel this road eventually, here is how I did mine.
I removed the screw and nut and inserted a knife with just enough force to open the grip placed on the governor control rod protruding from the engine, now I will insert a thin piece of metal in this pressure slit or whatever it is called and put the screw and nut back on and tighten.
It doesn't matter if the little rod turns now, there is nothing holding it.
Now I will use the arm for the throttle control, I will addsomething to connect the cable directly to the arm using one of the available little holes already drilled.
What do you guys think?
edit: added one more pic, the only think I could find in a hurry.

I did something similar this spring on my most recent build and ran into a bit of a problem. The vibration caused by the motor and drivetrain caused the vane to vibrate as well, and this vibration caused the butterfly on the carb to flutter. This flutter caused the bike to flutter/serge at speed. You can see this movement at the carb by just moving the top of the vane fore and aft to simulate vibration and watch the butterfly valve.

ocscully
 
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Well I had to add this lock at the end because the arm was sliding out when moved back and forth and eventually cought at the end.
I was lucky to have one of these around.
It works much better now, no friction between the parts.
I will show you the rest of the build in the next couple of days, it's a bit heavy but the aluminum I used was already here so I thought why not, I certainly can't afford to get a new piece.
Even tho this one is 15 more ccs than my 35 I love the 35, two pulls and Im on the road.
 

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Yeah,take the governor off rev it up to 10,000 rpm and you'll have an exploded view. :whistle:

This screw controls the rpms, by lowering the screw the engine will never rev up to the highest rpms.

I have a feeling is already set so that even if one thinks the engine is running at full throttle it is really not.
 

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