method of adjusting shimano rear derailer

[happycheapskate]

Nashbar cable cutters: http://www.nashbar.com/bikes//Product_10053_10052_124659_-1___
$12.
nashbar compressionless cable housing and cable $3.99 . http://www.nashbar.com/bikes//Product_10053_10052_175158_-1___

Arkives1, try using compressionless cable housings (they are made of long strands of steel wire with inner and outer liners, instead of a wound steel band that compresses and messes up your shifting. use 3n1 oil or silicone gun lube for cable lubricant.

Remember to make sure the ferrule is crimped well and installed at the derailleur end, bend to fit, size and cut close to the frame, to ensure the wires are all the same length in the bent position. Then temporarily electrical tape it to the frame in a couple places, add your cable.

Also, use some of the good $3 electrical tape to tightly wrap the last foot or so that goes from the cable stop to the rear derailleur. This makes a huge difference to me.

You can hang your bike from a tree or roof edge/garage etc using a motorcycle strap with 2 hooks. just hook it under the seat, frame, handlebars, etc and hoist it up.

EDIT: be sure not to pull on or put pressure on any cables that you are adjusting. I usually use the stem and the seat or the corner of frame by the seat tube and seat stays .

This has worked for me for years. It was cheap and fits in a toolbox.

 

[craisin]

thanks Happy mighty kind of you to help the fella

 

[arkives1]

adjusting shimano rear derailer

Nashbar cable cutters: http://www.nashbar.com/bikes//Product_10053_10052_124659_-1___
$12.
nashbar compressionless cable housing and cable $3.99 . http://www.nashbar.com/bikes//Product_10053_10052_175158_-1___

Arkives1, try using compressionless cable housings (they are made of long strands of steel wire with inner and outer liners, instead of a wound steel band that compresses and messes up your shifting. use 3n1 oil or silicone gun lube for cable lubricant.

Remember to make sure the ferrule is crimped well and installed at the derailleur end, bend to fit, size and cut close to the frame, to ensure the wires are all the same length in the bent position. Then temporarily electrical tape it to the frame in a couple places, add your cable.


I have a good stand that supports the bike from below very solidly and holds it at just the right height.

Also, use some of the good $3 electrical tape to tightly wrap the last foot or so that goes from the cable stop to the rear derailleur. This makes a huge difference to me.

You can hang your bike from a tree or roof edge/garage etc using a motorcycle strap with 2 hooks. just hook it under the seat, frame, handlebars, etc and hoist it up.

EDIT: be sure not to pull on or put pressure on any cables that you are adjusting. I usually use the stem and the seat or the corner of frame by the seat tube and seat stays .

This has worked for me for years. It was cheap and fits in a toolbox.

Thanks for the info Happy. I hadn't thought about the cables much as I got them from a very good local bike shop and they knew what I was attempting so I think I'll call and find out about the cables you mention. I was looking at the thing today, the frame of the OCC keeps the derailer sprockets quite a distance from the drive sprocket. I wonder if that distance is a factor as well. Maybe if it was closer it would shift more smoothly.I know quite a few other guys have done these bikes and none have mentioned the sort of problem I have. I may need a different derailleur than the one I have so got one on the way from a friend. I'm guessing that it won't resolve the problem either though. Woody

 

[happycheapskate]

I am not familiar with the bike you are using, at least I have not seen one in person with gear on it. The thing about Shimano derailleurs and cogs to remember, is that the closer the smallest cog is to the right side of the frame, and the closer the top der. pulley runs to the bottom of the cogs without striking teeth, the better it will run and shift.

If you cannot locate the smallest cog close to the right side of the frame becuase of your hub spacing or an extra wide frame, perhaps a modified derailleur hanger is in order.

If you have solid axles, you can make a simlified derailleur hanger from flat aluminum stock. (The axle goes through a hole in it, and the derailleur bolt, greased, will tap its own threads into a tightly sized drilled hole). When the wheel is installed, line the hanger up (hanging straight down or at your marked angle after experimenting). Tighten the wheel down and it will shift now. You can move the derailleur mount by this means.

******
The common 7,8,9 speed "long cage" mountain bike derailleurs should work on anything. The SRAM 1:1 shifters only work with Sram 1:1 der. The shimano der only work with "shimano compatible" sram shifters. This should help.

 

[arkives1]

adjusting shimano rear derailleur

Happy, I'll try to get some pics of the setup I'm dealing with and measure how far from the sprocket I am with the derailleur sprockets. This bike has a 4.5 inch wide wheel so the frame is wide also and shaped differently than most bikes. The slots are from the rear so there is some adjustment possible there but that doesn't change the orientation of sprocket and derailleur since its attatched to the axle. It does allow a bit of tension adjustment though. I will make sure I have the right cables first off, then try the Derailleur my friend is sending me, if that fails I will look at a long cage and see if that works. I'm thinking the frame is keeping me too far below and in front of the sprockets. Your suggestion about the cables makes sense since it seems I can get it to shift correctly in one direction, either low to high or high to low but not both. I did have it shifting well going from low to high but going back to low it would skip 3rd gear that would work ok as long as I remember that it skips that gear when shifting down. It would be going from 24t to 17t, skipping the 20t. Makes a jerky shift. Woody

 

[craisin]

chrome forks

 

[happycheapskate]

Craisin, I like the fork with V brakes. That looks simple and solid.

Are you using a friction drive? I didn't see the left side chain but there is some kind of roller behind the motor. What is that please?

 

[craisin]

hey Happy havent put on the Jackshaft on yet
What you think is a roller is a bearing for the jackshaft
I have to get the bike going as new ideas are great but they cost money