Mods for reliability

Any vendor who sells rubber products.

I must make a note that the gap between shift kit side plate and the seatpost tube might be different on your bike, so you'll need to measure this gap, or simply purchase rubber of different thicknesses and see which one works best.
Ideally you want the rubber to be ever so slightly thicker than the gap, as it will compress over time. In my case, the rubber used (which was very hard rubber) has compressed almost 1mm through the force being applied between side plate and seatpost tube.

Lol I think there's a vending machine in the gents toilets in the local tavern. :p

Yes, of course it would be.. mine will be 28.6mm diameter on my final frame, though I'm seriously considering doing a quick proof-of-concept build-up on my newest Subway 2 which is 32.1mm. What's your seat tube OD? I can figure it out from that.
 
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I beleive I was wrong about the shift kit reliability. now that the engine settled and I now have a 29er with front suspension, I rode 70 miles today and not one single hiccup other than a little gas leakage when the bike sits with the the petcock open. I have put threadlock on everything.
 
I beleive I was wrong about the shift kit reliability.

It is quite likely that the reliability you are experiencing is because of this:

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I have put threadlock on everything.


When my next door neighbour finally assembled his shift (after f*$king up the assembly numerous times), it didn't take long for parts to be flying off it; leaving a trail of bits and pieces scattered along the road, because hid didn't listen to advise of using Loctite, (and then later, the correct Loctite specification) being the most important item in the assembly process.

If you don't install the SickBikeParts right hand side chain tensioner, you'll find that chain tension issues will be rather annoying, particularly when on a long ride, and over dusty surfaces.

The SickBikeParts left hand side chain tensioner not only does what it's name suggests, but it also gives improved jackshaft stability.
Both the right hand side and left hand side chain tensioners are *** must have items ***














but this version looks better:




20140347.jpg
 
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Fabian, you said "the right Loctite.."

Is it mostly Loctite 243 that you use, then?




I feel sick because I saw the rare bicycle I would kill/die for. :'(

But I found some silicone tubing.. as if that'll comfort me now.
 
Fabian, you said "the right Loctite.."

Is it mostly Loctite 243 that you use, then?




I feel sick because I saw the rare bicycle I would kill/die for. :'(

But I found some silicone tubing.. as if that'll comfort me now.

I use Permatex red (Loctite 271 equivalent) for most of mine. Most people suggest 243, and if you're going to be taking it apart and putting it back together a lot I'd agree. The only parts I have 243 on are parts on the engine block that I may remove at some point, ie head bolts and manifold studs, and there only because I'm not confident that these engines can take the 500 Fahrenheit it takes to break red threadlocker.

red is generally more secure, but 243 is really all you need for these things. the only reason I use red is because I always have a bunch of it, while since I rarely use blue I almost never have it.
 
Fabian, you said "the right Loctite.."

Is it mostly Loctite 243 that you use, then?

Yes, i mostly use (medium strength) Loctite 243.
I use (low strength) Loctite 222 for the little screw that prevents the clutch flower nut rotating, and i use (high strength) Loctite 263 if a part comes loose using Loctite 243, which virtually never happens.

If i am constantly having to remove and install a component that normally doesn't come loose, i'll use Loctite 222.
 
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