Engine Trouble My engine is Squeaking.... and wont start

Discussion in '2-Stroke Engines' started by ryansclzo, Aug 17, 2012.

  1. ryansclzo

    ryansclzo Member

    my new 2 stroke engine that I finally got running after my throttle cable snapped after the first ride, now is squeaking like crazy :S... I checked the wheels and everything to make sure that wasn't the problem but the only time I get the really bad squeaks is after I release the clutch. Can someone plz help me diagnose this problem? I use weedwacker fuel for it...
     

  2. motorpsycho

    motorpsycho Active Member

    squeeking like a metal to metal squeek?
    or squeeking like a rubber to metal squeek?
    what is your fuel - oil ratio right now?
    so it's squeeking and it won't run?
    I assume the squeeking is happening when you are trying to get it to run(while the bike is moving, clutch engauged?)
     
  3. HeadSmess

    HeadSmess Well-Known Member

    head gasket.

    a "squeak squeak squeak" sound while theres some sort of...burbling? going on in the exhaust but its not darn startin!

    run your hand around the cylinder while you bust ya guts pedalling.... or simply take off the head n have a look see ;)

    could just be loose cylinder studs...
     
  4. Fabian

    Fabian Well-Known Member

    Exactly where did the throttle cable snap? for this will help diagnose the problem.

    If the cable snapped inside the carburettor, then metal could have made it's way into the engine - this will cause a healthy squeaking sound.
     
  5. Chooko

    Chooko New Member

    My clutch used to squeak like that, slight slippage etc, tighten the fowl screw a little (on your clutch plate), unless it feels like it is engaging strongly that is..........
     
  6. jaguar

    jaguar Well-Known Member

    There are some posts sticking out from the clutch towards the clutch cover. Take the cover off and see if there is a big circular mark on it from metal to metal contact. Then add a second clutch cover gasket.
    The only other squeek I can think of is when the head nuts are loose and compression is escaping. check their tightness. Also sometimes the heads are slightly warped which would allow that. You can plane the head surface with sandpaper on glass (and the head on the sandpaper). Press down and move in a circular pattern. If you want more power from more compression then start off with very rough sandpaper and take .5mm off the head surface. Then order a new wrist pin bearing to replace the stock one which is **** and goes south quickly from increased compression.
     
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