My First Project

Discussion in 'General Questions' started by toxicmammoth, Jun 11, 2007.

  1. toxicmammoth

    toxicmammoth Guest

    My first project!

    Starting with a nonamecustoms type 5 frame.

    Its an awesome frame, the workmanship is fantastic and I'm having second thought about adding all the extra to make it motorized! Too many cables.

    I'll probably try to make a custom tank for it since there's enough room below the top tube to do it.

    I have about a dozen issues to solve. Seat tub is too thin, chain drags across the engine, need to extend the exhaust pipe internal cable routing, on and on! (yes the tank is on upside down..)



    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     

  2. JosephGarcia

    JosephGarcia Guest

    that frame is WAY more deserving of a bigger more powerful motor.

    if your going to use that one, make a new exhaust pipe that extends to the rear, and definately have someone custom build a gas tank. the stock tank will ruin that bikes look...


    if the seat tube is too thin, shape thin sheet metal around and cut it to size to use as spacers.

    Also get thicker meaner looking front forks, at least with suspension.

    I'm really loving those tires, really motorcycley. Where did you get them and will they fit any standard 26 inch rim? or is the whole assembly special made?

    use a longer chain and two homemade tensioners to route the chain under the engine case instead of against it.
     
  3. locoWelder

    locoWelder Guest

    Nice start toxicmammoth , Man I got alot of ideas but its your build:sad:
     
  4. iRide Customs

    iRide Customs Member

    Jay makes great frames! The style is similar to the bike I am working on right now. I ran the pedal chain above and below the clutch side case. The seat tube on the Nonames is probably a 1'' diameter and you should use pieces of inner tube as a shim...it works great and isolates some of the vibration.

    I also fabricated a tank that slips under the top tube...here's a link to pics of my bike.

    http://www.motoredbikes.com/viewtopic.php?t=1623
     
  5. toxicmammoth

    toxicmammoth Guest

    thanks for the feedback!

    Thanks for the comments!

    I'm actually going to use a jackshaft so I only have one chain total driving the rear wheel. I don't like the way the out of the box kit attachs the sprocket to the rear wheel. Of course this is a butt load more work on my part. With what I have in mind, there won't be an idler/tensioner used in the design. If you look at the bottom bracket on the bike, I had Jay install a tandem shell that's adjustable so I will be able to tension the chain between the BB and the jackshaft.

    And after seeing iRide's custom tank, I'm gonna try my hand at fabracating my own. Simple design, no curving except on the top and bottom. my sheet metal skill are weak at best so bondo and some time of gas tank liner is going to be necessary. I have to figure out where he got the filler neck and cap. I suppose I can cut the existing one out of the stock tank. All the weld in filler necks I've found are for full sized bikes and way too big.

    for the front fork I'm thinking a BIG dual crown Fox shock with one of the thru-axles, but those things are massivly expensive, even used. The steering tube is 1 1/8 so I can fit the larger fork.

    The pipe hits the crank arm so I will have to make a new pipe that will somehow clear the frame, not burn the igintion wires, clear the crank arm and curve down and run paralell to the bottom tube. The frame sits at 4" high so the pipe can't hang below it so it will run next to it and hopefully close enough to not burn the paint when its all done..

    The tires on their now are Max tape worms with some old circa 1979 blue anadoized beach cruiser rims that have been in the attic since about 1979. They'll be replaced with some 26 2.5 rims and the biggest tires i can find.

    Jay also put a killer adjustable disc brake bracket on the rear drop out so I'll have discs on the rear and can still adjust the chain tension between the rear freewheel and jackshaft.

    The engine, well its tiny, nothing I can do about that!
     
  6. JosephGarcia

    JosephGarcia Guest

    Re: thanks for the feedback!

    Sounds good, you know what you want to do. I would say, first change your exhaust so you have the clearance. then install the kit at stock, buy a new J8c sparkplug (dont use the one it came with) DEFINATELY install an in-line fuel filter, and break it in now with 20/24:1 before you go all out with the gas tank and other parts. Becuase if you get that stuff done and then you realize your engine doesnt run you will be in real trouble.
     
  7. iRide Customs

    iRide Customs Member

    Re: thanks for the feedback!

    The tank was relatively easy to make, it just took 2 days worth of work. I mananged not to have any leaks but I sealed it with Kreem tank sealer anyway. I also decided not to use any bondo on the tank for fear it may crack from all the engine vibration. The bung, cap and petcock bung are all out of the tank that came with the kit because I ran into the same problem you talked about...all the aftermarket ones seemed to be too big.

    Did you try mounting your engine a little higher in the frame? That might alleviate all the exaust and chain clearance issues.

    Dan
     
  8. SlicerDicer

    SlicerDicer Guest

    toxic have you seen part of what I am doing with the jackshaft?
     
  9. toxicmammoth

    toxicmammoth Guest

    Re: thanks for the feedback!

    Thanks for the comments!

    ------------------------------------------
    iRide Customs

    The tank was relatively easy to make, it just took 2 days worth of work. I mananged not to have any leaks but I sealed it with Kreem tank sealer anyway. I also decided not to use any bondo on the tank for fear it may crack from all the engine vibration. The bung, cap and petcock bung are all out of the tank that came with the kit because I ran into the same problem you talked about...all the aftermarket ones seemed to be too big.

    Did you try mounting your engine a little higher in the frame? That might alleviate all the exaust and chain clearance issues.

    -----------------


    Thanks for the heads up. I can gut the stock tank for its filler neck. on the sites with the weld in filler necks there's also weld in oil can-cooler necks but I figured they wouldn't have the venting in them like a gas tank.

    For you it took 2 days, for me its going to take a lot longer but I'll get it done some how.

    For mounting the engine, I'm working that one. you mentioned that you made the engine fit between the chain had me thinking about an idler/chain guide on the return-bottom of the frame. I still will need a wider BB spindle for a little extra clearence I'm thinking. Mounting the engine above the chain is way too high.


    -------------
    SlicerDicer
    toxic have you seen part of what I am doing with the jackshaft?
    --------------
    No, do you have a link to the thread, I would love to see it!.

    I've got a cool idea that I'm betting a lot of time&$ on that will work.
     
  10. toxicmammoth

    toxicmammoth Guest

    Update - Finally Got the Engine Mounted!

    Well I finally got the engine and jackshaft put together. I had to rediscover my brazing skills. Was pretty rough at first but I started getting back in the groove after a bit.

    I had to mount the engine way higher than I wanted. The jackshaft is in place but I dont know if its going to be sturdy enough. It worked out just as I had planned but I will have to see.

    Next it to double/triple/quadruple check that this will work, weld it up tight then slap the pieces on to get the motor fired and test it.
     

    Attached Files:

  11. gone_fishin

    gone_fishin Guest

    very nice!

    i'm gonna add something that may help avoid quadruple checking...somewhere (i can't find it) someone had a huge problem with vibration that eventually cracked the frame: it turned out his custom engine-mounting tubes were too long and unsupported, and they would get all "harmonic" on him...consider doing some serious gusset-work on your mount-extensions 8)
     
  12. azbill

    azbill Active Member

  13. toxicmammoth

    toxicmammoth Guest

    Thanks for the heads up

    my mountine look just about the same has his! Except my is dangling out there even more! thanks for the link!

    I've got the room to gusset the **** out of it and hopefully that will do the trick.

    I'm gonna try firing it up and give it a test run in a couple of days. the stock exhaust pipe curve & length wont work so I have to lower the pipe and exend the exhaust tube. I got some copper pipe to give it a try with. if the layout works i can replace it with a steel pipe. I thought i read someplace that copper tubing wont last long as an exhaust pipe.
     
  14. azbill

    azbill Active Member

    I believe the prob with copper is if you solder it, it gets hot enough to undo the joint :eek:
    I am pretty sure people have brazed successfully :D
    good luck !!!
     
  15. toxicmammoth

    toxicmammoth Guest

    I'm hooked!

    So I finished hobbling up the copper tube to extend the exhaust pipe. no problem brazing the copper to the chrome plated steel. The copper didn't bend as nicely as i wanted to it looks kinda crappy but its only a temp..

    I then read through every technical thread related to first time firing up and problems.

    then I added the beer can wrap to the carb. much better fit.

    bought a inline fuel filter, strapped the tank on.

    Wired the sucker up, had to use a new plug wire cuz of the distance. Took and old wire from a mustang project and cut & fit it. black to black, blue to green, tape off the white. pulled the plug, could see the spark - kinda dim but it was there.

    bought the gas, got the craftsman synthetic oil, measured a 20:1 ratio, broke the **** gas cap - the little tab fell into the cap (****!) stuck the cap on and hoped for the best.

    retighted all the bolts on the bike, check the chains, checked the brakes... then checked everything again.


    took it out started pedeling and it fired up by the 3rd house! Idled fine and wasnt bogging. rode it back, to the house, locked in the clutch and check to see what was gonna fall off and try to hurt me. so far so good!

    Took it up the street & back then around the block. almost hit two moving cars cuz i wasn't looking. took it home, monkeyed with the idle screw and the throttle adjustment & stalled it. the barrel in the carb is all the way rested at the bottom and the idle adjust is about 2 - 2 1/2 turns. put the adj back and fired it up again!

    These things are a kick in the butt to ride! IM HOOKED!:eek::eek:
     
  16. azbill

    azbill Active Member

    Another !!!
    my name is toxicmammoth,I am a MotoredBikeaholic ! :D
     
  17. gone_fishin

    gone_fishin Guest

    your news started my day off in totally the right direction!!!

    it's always great when i hear that MBc is doing something right...

    nice post and a good lesson for all first-starters 8)

    one thing...it's recommended to avoid synthetic during break-in. someone who knows more can tell you why.
     
  18. toxicmammoth

    toxicmammoth Guest

    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 15, 2007
  19. azbill

    azbill Active Member

    looks good in mock-up :D
    can't wait to see final ! :cool:
     
  20. Wow - looks like you are really putting your time into this build - looks really great.

    I love the CAD (cardboard aided design)... :D
     
Loading...