My Orange Coast Chopper Build

Thanks, man...

Lots of research and hard work finally paid off.
She takes off and fans through the gears to the mid 40's right now with thick mix gas. Once she's broken in she'll stride past 55. Handles like a BMX. I can lay it down in a 90 degree turn at 30 and pull out of it. The motor mounts isolate the engine vibration. The exhaust sounds great but may need some more tuning after the break in mix is over. I think I may need to go mikuni carb and a reed valve. She cruises comfortably and stops on a dime with the custom disk brakes (thanks for the calipers, Kawasaki). I think I need to locate nylon lined brake cabling as all the tight bends sinking the cables in the frame has made for harder pulls on the shifter, throttle, and levers. I solved the leaky gas cap with a custom seal I plan to sell and a new and improved petcock. I already went through the stock exhaust gasket. Jim has developed a soft copper gasket that is the end all beat all.
There are other goodies coming from the R & D of this build very soon.
Thanks, Jim. I couldn't have done it as well without you.

All in all, a very rewarding build my Orange Coast Chopper has been.... =-]'

'BrettMavriK
 
Loving the Matt Black...Just last night i applied a matt black etch primer to the new rear end I made for my trike...after seeing yourz in Matt black and how Gangsta it looks i thinkz i might just have to continue on and paint the rest of my frame Matt black...Awesome job turned out a treat have fun riding himz..

The break lines...ChoppersUS sell teflon lined cables Unfortunately its grey casing, a way around this would be too use the cable sleeving us PC case modders use to cover the wires in the PC cases to pretty them up...Sleeving is available in BLACK which would match your ride ;-) I went for the stainless steel Braided jobz they work great they have a plcky liner they work very well for my trike which runs EXTRA long cables...
 
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Thanks,
I'm lovin' the rat rod paint scheme although it's already been done many times. The shape of this bike embraces the attitude of rat rod pretty well I think. I chose the scheme because I may have a few sold already, and that scheme more people can identify with.

Yeah I saw the grey cables from Choppers US. I think I can find black ones somewhere. Just gotta dig around.

The only other bug I'm running into is the rear end has a slight torsional twist under power. Once in awhile it will throw the 3/32 chain off the jack shaft drive sprocket going into 4th or 5th. The bottom rear wheel cage hoop will flex different than the top hoop under load or gear change, in which you can see the rear wheel jerk in a torsional twist motion.. I'm going to bridge and gusset the two hoops together near the pivot, and then I'm Jim's gonna help me machine some hard plastic bushings for the pivot instead of urethane. This coupled with another swing arm chain tensioner for the top "return" chain near the tire will solve it or keep it at bay. The rear shock was an experiment and it works very well otherwise. The bike pivots right under the seat on bumps so it almost feels like the front has a suspension. A custom built springer fork is coming as well. After seeing what companies want for these, we've decided to build our own. The stock Stingray's front fork is way too raked for good handling and the tubes are too small, so I thought a cool big bar double barrel springer or rigid fork with built in caliper mounts to be used with our Stingray wheel disk brake adapters would be cool to go along with the Stingray jack shafted and bushed clamshell motor mount set up that is coming soon. These bikes are something else when you can shift though 5 speeds, rip though corners, and stop on a dime.

'BrettMavriK
 

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BrettMavriK said:
The only other bug I'm running into is the rear end has a slight torsional twist under power. Once in awhile it will throw the 3/32 chain off the jack shaft drive sprocket going into 4th or 5th.
Click to expand...


I had the exact same problem with my trike...except a handle full of throttle in first spun the rear wheel up then threw the chain due to the flex in the derailleur...cured it by re-alignment of the trike rear conversion, the derailleur was holding the chain over on the first gear of the freewheel, not like your case it seems, your derailleur is holding chain in 4th and 5th and has pretty straight alignment in 1st...i also bought a Deore XT Derailleur to help the cause, alot sturdier than the el-cheapo off the side of the road unit i was using...

Have you seem John Brains plans for DIY springer forkz?
These are the plans I used for the forks on my trike, they are fantastic
IMHO the design is alot nicer than the ChoppersUS fork too...cost
under 100 bucks to make them too cheaper if you stick to the plans, i used rose joint ends on my springer tubes
cost ~18 bucks a pop :-S

Couple picks of the one i made-->

http://members.ii.net/~aussiejester/index/pictures/Springer_fork.JPG

I picked up a set of bar clamps used on a pocket bike so i could do away with the standard bicycle 'stem' too...

http://members.ii.net/~aussiejester/index/pictures/Custom_crusier_17.jpg

Best of luck with future endeavors be interested to see the jackshaft you offer for sale ;-)

Regards

Kim
 
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Thanks, Graucho!
Coming from the Wizard Extremist of Artisry on 2 Wheels, that says alot....

Penguin,The exhaust is for a pocket bike. I can't remember what place I got it from.

Kim, that's a great job on that chopper fork. Jim and I have been kickin' around the ideas of making billet springer forks because of the astronomical prices we see them go for. We were thinking of a Billet 36" Springer Fork with Disc Brake Caliper Mounts built in both sides for around $150-175. The closet thing to that we saw was nearly $300.
My derailer is centered to the rear cluster. I had to push out the freewheel sprocket for the pedals off center because they want the same space. I ordered one more of those spring arm chain tensioners like I have on the bottom run of the rear chain. It will be mounted right above it, slanted the opposite direction so they will look like a face card in poker. Then I can move the front sprocket and align the tensioner to it, so it won't matter where the derailer is at in whatever gear it is in. The tensioners make great aligners before the sprocket, and have hoops to capture the chain around the idler sprocket on the arm.
I'm gettin out to the garage in a couple minutes to change my gear ratio in the jack shaft. I want to hit 6000 rpm at 23 mph in First, 46 mph @ 6000 in Fifth. I think that will center the engine in its' power band.
'BrettMavriK
 

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