Tubes Need better inner tube

My stuff finally arrived. New tube, new tuffy liner, (and I cannot believe the tire "irons" I bought are really tire "cheap plastics" Who ever heard of plastic tire irons. At least they were indeed cheap.)

Anyway, new tube is in. Already took a short test ride. So far so good.
And yes, it was that ****patch that gave..... AGAIN! Lost count how many times I RE patched that hole.
Biggest patch in the box and it lost it's grip.

Until the next long nail I pick up, hopefully this will work for awhile.
 
I use tire liners and slime tubes "super thick ones from walmart". Using just the tire liners I've had thorns puncture my tube before, but they are just small holes so the slime has no problem sealing them. If you are worried about glass or nails you can even kick it up by getting kevlar belted tires.
 
Warning on the Pyramid Punctureproof: Don't over-inflate them, in fact, keep them in the 35-40 psi range.

Reason? I've had two customers say they split at the seam. Both riders were hefty, and the clue was, maybe a month or two after they picked them up, both added air. One guy mentioned he got it rock solid, with his shock absorber seat post and suspension rear end on the bike, he didn't think anything of it, until a 2 inch rip happened, near the stem.

The reason the "tire in a tire" is really iffy is the abrasion the cut sidewall of that inside tire will rub and rub and rub, intensified by the heat and speed that our motorizing causes.

It won't happen right away, might be in a thousand miles, that the inner tube gets sanded down in spots, just like sandpaper. When you fix that flat, you'll find rubber dust packed in the tire from the abrasion.

Layers of tape on the spoke ends, punctureproof tube and tire liner, that is the best recipe with standard tires, I'm hoping the Serfas tire is the ultimate combo.
 
I've never been a big fan of the word "proof"....bulletproof/waterproof/shockproof/punctureproof.About the best anyone can do is make something Resistant(even that's to varying degrees)
Though i've never had a puncture with Serfas tyres in bama's configuration i'm still trialing this liner;results posted down the track,good or bad:
http://www.motoredbikes.com/showthread.php?t=20983
 
Like loquin says in your thread, it's all about the chaffing.....

(and thin, which may be important from a tube-chaffing viewpoint...)

With the "tire in a tire" config, the inflated tube would overlap and "form to fit" over the cut edge, and that 1/8" of sidewall, on the entire circumference of the inner tube, would be where the rubber grinding occurs.

Asphalt heated air pressure will eventually escape out the weakest spot.

The thick tubes at $10 are vastly superior to the slime tubes at $7, especially in the rear.

In the fronts I go with the $7 slimers and liners, fronts are never the problem as long as the $2 tubes that come standard equipped are tossed out.
 
tire liners wont work cause u have the smooth surface of the tire liner.and then the ruffer surface of the tire.where the tube meets the liner u tend to get little holes that wear thru from abrassion.
 
Couple of years ago I bought a used MTB and last year motorized it. It ran great and I put 500 miles on it before I had the bright idea to rotate the tires. That's when I found it had tire liners and didn't pay much attention putting them back in. In 3 days I had 3 flats, all pinch flats.
That's when I had to learn about laying in tire liners, pitiful little on the web about them even from the manufacturer but I stuck with it because I knew they worked from the 500 miles I had ridden with no punctures. That was a little over 700 miles ago and have not had another problem.
 
Hmmm. I didn't do anything special when I put my liner in. Hope I don't get these pinch flats now. I was a little surprised at how narrow the liner is. Got these big balloon tires and this stupid little inch and a half wide liner right down the center.
Better keep my rides in a radios I'm willing to walk for awhile.
 
Like loquin says in your thread, it's all about the chaffing.....



With the "tire in a tire" config, the inflated tube would overlap and "form to fit" over the cut edge, and that 1/8" of sidewall, on the entire circumference of the inner tube, would be where the rubber grinding occurs.

Asphalt heated air pressure will eventually escape out the weakest spot.
u shouldnt have an 1/8 of rubber anywhere.u only cut the bead off.all the side wall is still intact[and i mean all of it].the sidewall is nowhere near an 1/8 inch thick.probaly about the same as a liner.
tire liners wont work cause u have the smooth surface of the tire liner.and then the ruffer surface of the tire.where the tube meets the liner u tend to get little holes that wear thru from abrassion.
sorry for this message.its probably not accurate because ive never actually put a liner in my tire.there by making every thing ive said an assumption.bama have u tried the tire in a tire?r u assuming?because my thread has over 2000 veiws and i have trouble believing no one is trying this.i mean im sure if they were trying it and getting flats they would surely say something in the thread.now if it is working for them they might just be like cool and forget about the thread.i mean i am still running the same tubes and there the 3 dollar ones.:whistle:
 
Yep, I tried "tire in a tire", it did what I described, abraded the tube. I wrote 1/8" just to describe "whatever" mil thickness a side wall is. But the tube "overflows" like rising bread in a pan, and the abrasion is a circular line where I cut the inner tire, all along the tube.

Before discovering Mr. Tuffy tire liners, I also tried lengths of doubled up duct tape.
 
Back
Top