New build, general questions

[Jason8178]

So I am fairly new to the motorized bike scene. I have a good amount of mechanical knowledge with small engines such as mowers and weed eaters. I purchased my first engine kit from Amazon a few months back. I ended up getting an 80cc pexmore kit. With that said I put it together and it ran . Went Inside for a few, cam a back out and it wouldn't turn over. Long story short I pulled a piece of metal out that was stuck to the crank bearing. Once I got it to turn of course. So for my next build, (which I hope will be this coming month) I would like to gather some info from anyone on what actions to take to ensure I have no issues like before

 

[Jason8178]

Oh... and it took me another 2 weeks to figure out I didn't have the woodruff key in lol. On my 3rd teardown of the engine to find the issue as to why it wouldn't run. Pulled the magnet and no key. Needless to say when I did install it, the bike fired right up

 

[DAMIEN1307]

So I am fairly new to the motorized bike scene. I have a good amount of mechanical knowledge with small engines such as mowers and weed eaters. I purchased my first engine kit from Amazon a few months back. I ended up getting an 80cc pexmore kit. With that said I put it together and it ran . Went Inside for a few, cam a back out and it wouldn't turn over. Long story short I pulled a piece of metal out that was stuck to the crank bearing. Once I got it to turn of course. So for my next build, (which I hope will be this coming month) I would like to gather some info from anyone on what actions to take to ensure I have no issues like before

The first thing you should do with any new motor kit is to take the bottom end and turn it upside down to shake out any metal filings that are usually in it when it was manufactured, during drilling, milling etc....Then flush it out with just a little breakin gas/oil mix you have lying around and then pour it out.

Remember that in China, they hire only the most qualified 12 year old Quality Control personnel at the unheard of high pay rate of 2 bucks a day as their "experts" to oversee that their "quality" is "Just barely good enough" for export to the USA...lol.

And always remember, they are built from only the finest "quality" Chinesium aluminum that money can't buy...lol...lol.

 

[Jason8178]

The first thing you should do with any new motor kit is to take the bottom end and turn it upside down to shake out any metal filings that are usually in it when it was manufactured, during drilling, milling etc....Then flush it out with just a little breakin gas/oil mix you have lying around and then pour it out.

Remember that in China, they hire only the most qualified 12 year old Quality Control personnel at the unheard of high pay rate of 2 bucks a day as their "experts" to oversee that their "quality" is "Just barely good enough" for export to the USA...lol.

And always remember, they are built from only the finest "quality" Chinesium aluminum that money can't buy...lol...lol.

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Lol. Gotcha. To try and get the most out of the engine I do run premium gas and full synthetic oil. I have seen post where someone said the higher octane gas needs a higher temp to ignite. Not sure the truth behind that. Also I run an ngk b5hs plug

 

[DAMIEN1307]

To try and get the most out of the engine I do run premium gas and full synthetic oil.

What you really need to be running in these motors is what is called "Pure" gas, AKA Ethanol Free Gasoline...High octane Premium gas should really not be used on these low compression Chinesium motors...They are NOT high compression motors and do not need "premium" grade gasoline...This is the usual rule for all 2 stroke motors as ethanol in gas is detrimental to all two stroke motors in general as it corrodes these aluminum carby's as well as it also eats out the bottom end crank seals as they do not use Viton seals in them.

Also, synthetic oil should never, ever, be used during breakin period which for the Phantom 85 is a period of 300 miles, use only a good conventional oil like Valvoline 2 sroke multi-purpose CONVENTIONAL oil for the break in period mixed at 20:1 and only AFTER breakin should you go to full synthetic 2 stroke oil...I have kept mine at 20:1 even after breakin as the Phantom seems to like that mix the best...That translates to 6.4 ounces of oil to 1 gallon of Ethanol-Free gasoline which is usually around the 87 octane rating and the Phantoms run beautifully on that mix...Do not "chintz" out on the oil with these motors, they need it not only for better lubrication but is also necessary for keeping the heat situation with them in control.

 

[DAMIEN1307]

Also I run an ngk b5hs plug

Change the spark plug to a lower heat range plug...I run the colder NGK-BR8HS plugs in mine.

 

[Jason8178]

Great advice. Ty. I will keep that nugget of Info at the front because I do plan on purchasing one

 

[Jason8178]

Change the spark plug to a lower heat range plug...I run the colder NGK-BR8HS plugs in mine.

Ok. Before I had any understanding of plugs I thought the 5 represented a shorter thread . What I mean is the plugs I was using was too long and the piston was hitting the plug

 

[Jason8178]

Is the 5 ok for now considering the weather in my area? I haven't checked the plug in about a week or two.

 

[DAMIEN1307]

What I mean is the plugs I was using was too long and the piston was hitting the plug

NOPE, that number is actually the heat range of the plug...With NGK plugs, the higher the number, the lower the heat range.

That particular plug I use will not hit the top of the cylinder on the Phantom 85 motor.