New Golden Eagle belt drive - 24 hour impressions

Discussion in 'Rack Mounted Engines' started by Tinker1980, Oct 29, 2011.

  1. Tinker1980

    Tinker1980 New Member

    Yesterday, at about 5 pm, I installed my first GEBE kit. I have the 32cc Tanaka engine, and it's installed on a full-suspension mountain bike. I proceeded to zip tie the belt out of the way, pedal it to QT with a gallon can for mixing gas. Mixed the gas, slipped the belt on, and on the 2nd pull the engine started.

    Compared to my HT setup, this engine is far, far smoother, and much quieter. It also has much less torque, which is likely due to the smaller displacement, and what feels like higher gearing. Once you have the bike moving, it does great. Still smooth and quiet at speed. And it's very nice to be able to tie the belt out of the way, to pedal it. My other half, who the bike was built for, seems to like it.

    The only problems I see with the setup, is the small engine, and the price. $660 shipped is a bit much for this kit. The engine, I'm guessing, can be changed - if and when the Tanaka quits. I think I also have the option of modifying the Tanaka engine for more power, or putting a lower gear ratio on the kit.
     

  2. Tinker1980

    Tinker1980 New Member

    Took the new bike to the grocery store, left my Android Speedometer app running in my pocket. Top speed reached was a heady 29.08 MPH. Have to admit - this engine is smooth. Anyone try the 14 tooth gear with the Tanaka? I like leaving the bike in 21st gear and flying up the hills at half throttle.
     
  3. seanhan

    seanhan Member

    Just wait

    The tanaka gets a lot stronger after break inn !!!!
    You got a great engine.. Worth every penny..
    After a few hundred miles check the fuel tank mounting bolts.
     
  4. Virginian

    Virginian Member

    I switched to the 14 tooth gear on my Tanaka 32cc, and I really like it. Top speed is a little higher and the engine is quieter while cruising.

    It loses a little speed going up hills - not enough to be a problem, but perhaps that is due to my riding style. Going up hills I pedal as hard as I can to try to maintain my speed. For me, that's a lot of fun - it's a blast! If I didn't pedal, I would still get up the hill, but but I would be going disturbingly slow and the fun would be gone.
     
  5. seanhan

    seanhan Member

    Is

    Your fuel tank cap facing up ?
     
  6. Virginian

    Virginian Member

    Yes, fuel tank cap is at top of tank. I have also added an auxillary tank that extends my range to 80 miles. With 2 fuel bottles in water bottle cages, the range exceeds 130 miles.
     

    Attached Files:

  7. seanhan

    seanhan Member

    Wow

    Thats some good range...
    :eek:
     
  8. Tinker1980

    Tinker1980 New Member

    I like this mod. How does it work? Plug the Tanaka's tank vent, run a line from the tanaka tank to the auxiliary tank, aux. tank has the vent?

    The GEBE machine has been the wife's motorized bike. I've been promising to build her one since before she was my wife. We rode both machines (GEBE and my HT I've had since 2008) down to the Goodwill on Southwest Boulevard. Wife was on here Full-suspension GEBE bike, I was on the old Kulana Moon Dog with the 66cc engine, and a loaded bike trailer... No way I could keep up with her. I can't even hear the Tanaka over the HT engine, and I've never done anything to make the HT louder.

    I think that the quietness of the new machine is a good thing - the quieter my motorized bikes are, the less likely there is going to be some kind of movement from the easily offended to ban them from the roads.
     
  9. Virginian

    Virginian Member

    This is the way that it works.

    Drill a 1/4" hole in the top of the Tanaka tank and run the fuel line from the aux tank into the Tanaka tank. Then, plug the vent on the Tanaka tank gas cap. As the engine pulls gas out of the Tanaka tank, it creates a vacuum, which causes gas to flow from the aux tank into the Tanaka tank.

    The Tanaka tank will stay almost full until the aux tank has been emptied. That way it's easy to see how much gas you have left.
     
  10. Tinker1980

    Tinker1980 New Member

    That sounds easy. I've a spare 1 gallon gas can I can try this with. I also have an old respirator, which has little one-way valves in it that I might put in the vent on the second tank. I think this will be a mod I can do for the price of some scrap metal and fuel line.
     
  11. seanhan

    seanhan Member

  12. loquin

    loquin Active Member

    Yeah - this approach seems to be a better one... If you continue to dump the returned fuel into the existing tank, you'll always end up with fuel in the auxiliary tank when the existing tank is empty. This is because the fuel return line generally has air bubbles in it, which will reduce the amount of fuel that gets sucked into the existing tank.

    FuelTankPlumbing.JPG
    From an old thread on the same subject.
     
    Last edited: Nov 10, 2011
  13. Virginian

    Virginian Member

    No, if you seal the vent on the stock tank, what I see every time is that the auxilliary tank completely empties before the level in the stock tank starts to drop.

    That is because it is a closed system that can only make up the volume of the fuel that has been lost by drawing from the aux tank. The "air" in the fuel return is probably just gas that has heated and vaporized.
     
  14. When I first decided to build a motorized bike, I was pretty much set on the Honda GX35 engine, with a Staton friction drive. But after reading all the positive comments on the GEBE setup, I may go with that instead. Only I would get the EHO35 35cc Robin/Subaru 4 stroke engine. It is an expensive setup, and has a couple of drawbacks for me. Unlike the Staton setup, there is no room to mount a basket on top of the friction drive assembly. But apparently you can mount panniers to the sides of the GEBE support, so that should work. The other thing is how the drive ring mounts to the wheel. It only attaches to the spokes on one side of the wheel. Having been a long time bike rider, and having some degree of skill/experience in wheel building, to me this is not a good thing, I would rather have a hub mounted pulley. But, I have yet to hear of any problems caused by this, so it must be stronger than it seems like it would be, and my bike has a lot stronger wheels than the walmart bikes I see their kit installed on on their site.

    I have no need for speed, 20 mph is fine, what I need is range. I would like to go on 300-400 mile trips on it.
     
  15. I had a GEBE-Robin EHO35 setup on a bike and it was a superior setup. Smooth and quiet with adequate power and torque. There are at least 4 drive gear options, so if you want more speed or more power you can try different drive gears. As to the driven "gear"(I'd call it a sheave) atached to the spokes, my suggestion is to go with at least 12 gague stainless steel spokes as the minimum. The 10.5 gague spoked wheel GEBE offers is one of the strongest and best wheels you can buy. It is as good as a light motorcycle wheel. It is well worth the price and if you buy it with the kit the gear(sheave) will be correctly mounted and centered on the wheel and you will be able to rely on it for many years of hard use. If you mount things to the motor mount support, do it by clamping to the mount, not drilling through it. Trust me on that.
     
    Last edited: Dec 2, 2011
  16. Virginian

    Virginian Member

    What problems did you have with holes drilled in the mount? I have drilled holes in mine and so far have had no problem. It seems to still be very strong and rigid. Have I made a mistake?
     
  17. I did drill a few small, 1/4" holes in mine at first to mount an auxillary fuel tank. When I moved the kit to a better bike I found that it seemed quite weak and flexible compared to when I originally mounted it. I ordered a new mount strap and to compare the strenghth with and without extra holes is like day and night. I wouldn't do it, anymore than I would drill holes in a bike frame. The mounting strap isn't all that rigid, even without extra holes. Grab your engine and see how easy it is to move it side to side in relation to the bike. The price of the replacement mounting strap wasn't all that expensive. With the new strap in place I found ways to mount the bigger fuel tank by clamping to the strap. It is more difficult, but I'm sure if you asked GEBE they would tell you not to drill holes in the strap.
     
  18. Tinker1980

    Tinker1980 New Member

    I would have gone with the EHO35 engine myself, BUT, they were out of stock for the immediate future. I'm not sorry I got the Tanaka engine at all. If nothing else, I can replace it with a Honda 35cc or EHO35 when the tanaka wears out.
     
  19. Don't hold your breath on the Tanaka engine wearing out any time soon. They are a fine engine and, with proper care and the recommended fuel mix, may out-last the bike it is mounted to. I suggest you ride and enjoy your GEBE-Tanaka.
     
  20. rawly old

    rawly old Member

    Virginian,
    I like your aux. tank mount. Where'd you find that tank; looks like it would
    work well on my other bike. Check out the aux on my tourer. It's 1 gal. with
    a pump cap. when the stock tank gets low, I just pump some in from the 1
    gal.
    Here' the whole setup.
     

    Attached Files:

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