Now Selling 52mm Bore 85cc Kits! Phantom Killer

[GW's Motorized]

I put less than 10mi. with the break-in oil then put Mystic synthetic 2-stroke oil in it. Ran fine until about 30mi. Maybe ran lean due to intake leak and over heated the ring?

You need to run conventional 2 steoke oil for 300 miles for break in.

 

[mony0_3]

I have built these kits for the last 4 years and used full synthetic during break-in with no problem. Some engines are just crap out the box! I have built at least 50. I have 10 kits on standby and 12 built bikes that I ride not counting 2 electric ones.

 

[DAMIEN1307]

This is my break-in oil.

I put engine assembly grease (really thin stuff) on the ring, liner and wrist pin bearing.

Well, you did use some lubricant during assembly. I'm going to guess
that the break-in oil was not the cause, but something else, some other
defect in the motor design.

You just confused two different member posts in your answer Mike and just assumed they were the same person, one has blown his motor, the other has not.

 

[Wyvern]

You just confused two different member posts in your answer Mike and just assumed they were the same person, one has blown his motor, the other has not.

Not yet that is¯⁠\⁠_⁠(⁠ツ⁠)⁠_⁠/⁠¯

 

[Deleted Member 4613]

I have built these kits for the last 4 years and used full synthetic during break-in with no problem. Some engines are just crap out the box! I have built at least 50. I have 10 kits on standby and 12 built bikes that I ride not counting 2 electric ones.

I am referring to Mony, who experienced the failure. From the picture he posted, it looks like
there are some black deposits at the top of the piston, which does indicate lubricant failure.
What a mystery, but it could be the BR break-in oil, or the Mystic Synthetic that failed. Are
there any more deposits on the piston, anywhere?

 

[mony0_3]

I am referring to Mony, who experienced the failure. From the picture he posted, it looks like
there are some black deposits at the top of the piston, which does indicate lubricant failure.
What a mystery, but it could be the BR break-in oil, or the Mystic Synthetic that failed. Are
there any more deposits on the piston, anywhere?

I think there was an air leak at the carb and intake which caused it to over-heat, wasn't idling well the last few times I rode it. Carb had a lot of slack on intake so even with o-ring, might be what caused my problem.

 

[Deleted Member 4613]

Well, if it was me and I suspected the engine was prone to over heating due
to an leak and lean mixture, I would definitely choose a 2 stroke synthetic oil with
greater heat resistance. The Mystik 2 stroke only has a flash point (ASTM D92)
of 203 degrees F. It's moderate protection. Use one with a much higher flash point,
so the oil doesn't oxidize under high heat and cause deposits. You can find the
flash point of any oil in the SDS Safety Data Sheet.

 

[Wyvern]

I checked every fastener and re-seated the carb on my avenger today, didn't want to start as the idle was too low.

After warm up, idle was high so turned it down a touch and seemed to stabilize and
did fine for a 5 mile run around the block.

Running very well, 44t sprocket is almost too much torque for my frame, rear wheel bearing is getting loose. Mag wheels are in my future.

Is idle rise after warm up typical of these engines or do you think I have an air leak?

 

[mony0_3]

I think you should spray a little carb cleaner around the carb and intake and see if the rpm's change!

 

[Wyvern]

I dropped the needle one click rich and replaced the plug with NGK, starts and idles well, doesn't 4 stroke unless you top it out (I only did it for a second as it is a new engine) plug is chocolate brown with just a bit of tacky oil on it.