Question about a funny clutch cable.

Tarvarno

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I did a search, and this question seems not to have been answered before. I got a 4-stroke kit from bicycle-engines.com that uses a Grubee stage III gearbox, which I'm installing on a Schwinn beach cruiser with a SBP shift kit. The cable running to the clutch on the gearbox isn't a single cable, rather it's a couple of cables spliced together with a sort of rectangular bracket inside of which is a small metal block to which are attached the ends of both cables. The cable ends are screwed into the little block, which can then slide inside the bracket. So much for the description, now for the question.

Is there some good reason that the clutch cable isn't just a single, jacketed cable? Should I just get a single cable from some place if I don't feel like screwing around with making sure this bracket component works correctly?

Thanks,

Tarvarno
 
I did a search, and this question seems not to have been answered before. I got a 4-stroke kit from bicycle-engines.com that uses a Grubee stage III gearbox, which I'm installing on a Schwinn beach cruiser with a SBP shift kit. The cable running to the clutch on the gearbox isn't a single cable, rather it's a couple of cables spliced together with a sort of rectangular bracket inside of which is a small metal block to which are attached the ends of both cables. The cable ends are screwed into the little block, which can then slide inside the bracket. So much for the description, now for the question.

Is there some good reason that the clutch cable isn't just a single, jacketed cable? Should I just get a single cable from some place if I don't feel like screwing around with making sure this bracket component works correctly?

Thanks,

Tarvarno
The Stage III does not have a clutch cable because it has a centrifugal clutch.

That cable is for the dis-engager that should be left permanently disengaged.
Engaging the motor at higher rpm's will result in gear box damage.

Get rid of the clutch lever and rig up a way to make a shorter cable keep it disengaged.

Been a long time since I even cared about a Stage III
You should have bought the 4G T belt gearbox.
 
The Stage III does not have a clutch cable because it has a centrifugal clutch.

That cable is for the dis-engager that should be left permanently disengaged.
Engaging the motor at higher rpm's will result in gear box damage.

Get rid of the clutch lever and rig up a way to make a shorter cable keep it disengaged.

Been a long time since I even cared about a Stage III
You should have bought the 4G T belt gearbox.

Thanks for the answer. I'll figure out how to keep that cable locked in place for now. Supposing however I should want at some point to have another way of interacting with the drive train besides the centrifugal clutch, what should I do about that cable?
 
Thanks for the answer. I'll figure out how to keep that cable locked in place for now. Supposing however I should want at some point to have another way of interacting with the drive train besides the centrifugal clutch, what should I do about that cable?
Your supposing will get you a damaged gearbox.
There is no good reason to use the engager.

The quirks of the Stage III gearbox were discussed here years ago.


Start out by Checking out posts by the long gone member @ocscully
 
That looks like a good way of locking the cable. But do you mean to say that there is just no non-destructive way of using the disengager at all? It seems to me that I've read here somewhere about people using it correctly by only ever changing its state when the engine is idling, so this surprises me.

The stage III kit was a good bit cheaper, and at the time I was doing my research on the options the 4G T-belt had (and maybe this has been fixed by now) a recurring problem with that one-way bearing, while the stage III didn't seem to have any real issues besides being noisier. That was my reasoning in a nutshell.
 
I ran a Stage lll for over 5 yrs with NO problems.......The last one I had was stolen so I have a NEw one now...which I keep permantly engaged..a centenline kickstand helps...NEVER , NEVER, EVER...USE THE ENGAGER WITH THE ENGINE RUNNING EVEN AT IDLE. I also have a 4G kit on another bike.....it's ok, the only problem I had with it was the centerline bolt that holds the clutch came out...the one way bearing problem was solved unless you bought a very old kit.....and don't be fooled by what some vendors are calling the 5G kit.....it's just a new name for the infamous "hoot" gearbox...a worthless piece of junk...
 
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