Rear Wheel is killing me

[MotorBicycleRacing]

I will be getting the MM hub adapter when I start upgrading the bike. I am trying to do everything right now as cheap as possible. I will start a build thread in the next couple of days.

Great, you got it working.

When you get the MM adapter you will want to get a smaller
sprocket like a 36. If you order the sprocket at the same time
it's only $20 extra if they are shipped together.

 

[happycheapskate]

I know of two easy solutions, for about $40-50

BikeBerry.com has metal "pineapple sprocket adapters" which replace the rubber donuts, and have slots that line up with the spokes.

PedPower makes a replacement rag joint that has a LOT of screws, and several layers, and it is easy to line up. It also freewheels if you take 2 metal pins out of it, if you don't need to use the motor for a while or want to coast a long way downhill.
hybri-ped sprocket system thread here:
http://www.motoredbikes.com/showthread.php?t=18372

I have tried for a couple of hours now to line up the rag mount with the rear sprocket. The rubber plates make the screws go crooked and then the metal plates overlap on themselves.

Does anyone have any tricks? I am so ****ed right now I had to take a break.

On another note-This wheel has 12 gage spokes and a freewheel hub. The hub is a lot skinnier than a coaster break. I am assuming that this will not be a problem?

Aaron

 

[happycheapskate]

I agree. Check the bike first, and see if your chain hits the spokes. I would just use 1 rubber donut if that setup works. Remember, too, you can re-dish spoked wheels, and can re-space an axle in many cases (changing placement of the wheel by adding, or removing washers, spacers, nuts). A lot of people widen out steel frames when motorizing.

I didn't widen mine, but I have run a cog on the coaster brake wheel just using a rubber donut in the center of the hub, with the cog backed against the spokes. The cog is softer than the spokes, so they just bedded little notches on it and it's never moved. I can't run a 415 chain though.

before you take it all back apart, put the wheel on the bike and check your chain alignment (chain from the engine to the rear sprocket.
it may be fine the way it is because sometimes when you have a rubber on the inside and a rubber on the outside, it may push the sprocket too far out and make your chain alignment wrong. every oncew in awhile there's a case where you can't put a rubber on the outside (between the sprocket and the spokes) because the sprocket will be out too far.
you can also flip the sprocket over if the alignment is off as well.
i know it's a pain, but it takes time to get it right, and chain alignment is VERY important.
the instructions are useless in this department because no 2 rear sprockets will go on exactly the same way.
just like so many other aspects of building one of these, a lot of it is trial and error.

 

[motorpsycho]

there's only one problem that i have with the m.m. adapter...the cost!
I just can't justify spending that much for an adapter when you can make the rag joint work with a little bit pf patience.
The m.m. adapter is 1/2 of what i paid for my entire engine kit brand new.
maybe i'm just a cheapskate, but i like to make things work and not spend a ton of $$.

 

[motorpsycho]

I agree. Check the bike first, and see if your chain hits the spokes. I would just use 1 rubber donut if that setup works. Remember, too, you can re-dish spoked wheels, and can re-space an axle in many cases (changing placement of the wheel by adding, or removing washers, spacers, nuts). A lot of people widen out steel frames when motorizing.

I didn't widen mine, but I have run a cog on the coaster brake wheel just using a rubber donut in the center of the hub, with the cog backed against the spokes. The cog is softer than the spokes, so they just bedded little notches on it and it's never moved. I can't run a 415 chain though.

That's how i did the sprocket on my 20" schwinn. It has straight laced 38 spoke rims with a coaster brake, and i have the sprocket right up against the spokes and one rubber on the inside. It's been that way for 4 years now and i have not had one problem with it. I am running a 2" wide cheater slick in the back, and a 415 chain. The chain does not rub the tire(but it's close) and my chain alignment is perfect...It's never thrown the chain.
I also have a custom made sprung chain tensioner on it that i made.
My o.c.c. sprocket is set up the same way and it's been fine for 3 years now.

 

[motorpsycho]

I know of two easy solutions, for about $40-50

BikeBerry.com has metal "pineapple sprocket adapters" which replace the rubber donuts, and have slots that line up with the spokes.

QUOTE]

the only problems, i have with this adapter is the cost, and that it won't work with 38 straight laced spokes (which one of my bikes has).
it's a great alternative to the rag joint if you are willing to pay the price, and if it will work with your spoke arrangement.

 

[MotorBicycleRacing]

there's only one problem that i have with the m.m. adapter...the cost!
I just can't justify spending that much for an adapter when you can make the rag joint work with a little bit pf patience.
The m.m. adapter is 1/2 of what i paid for my entire engine kit brand new.
maybe i'm just a cheapskate, but i like to make things work and not spend a ton of $$.

A Custom Sized Manic Mechanic adapter is Only $45 and that
price includes the $6 for Priority Mail so that makes the adapter $39.

You paid $78 for an engine kit before shipping? You can't even buy an
engine for that price now and most kits are closer to $200.

Most people want to change the sprocket size anyway after they try
a 44 tooth for the first time and usually go smaller like a 40 or a 36 tooth.
A sprocket ordered at the same time is only $20 more with no extra shipping.
I would get a couple of sizes then be able to change sizes in less than 10
minutes instead of struggling with a rag joint......

All the advantages of not stressing the spokes and having instant side
to side adjustment as well as a perfectly true running sprocket and chain
line seems like a no brainer to me.

 

[motorpsycho]

A Custom Sized Manic Mechanic adapter is Only $45 and that
price includes the $6 for Priority Mail so that makes the adapter $39.

You paid $78 for an engine kit before shipping? You can't even buy an
engine for that price now and most kits are closer to $200.

Most people want to change the sprocket size anyway after they try
a 44 tooth for the first time and usually go smaller like a 40 or a 36 tooth.
A sprocket ordered at the same time is only $20 more with no extra shipping.
I would get a couple of sizes then be able to change sizes in less than 10
minutes instead of struggling with a rag joint......

All the advantages of not stressing the spokes and having instant side
to side adjustment as well as a perfectly true running sprocket and chain
line seems like a no brainer to me.

yes, as a matter of fact i bought my first engine kit, a brand new 49 c.c. 2 stroke slant head for $87.99 with free shipping in 2009. (ok, so my engine kit was a little more than double the price of that adapter, but still...less than $100.00 for a complete brand new kit.)
my 66 c.c. that i bought in 2010 was $125.99 with free shipping from the same vendor.
yes, both engine kits were brand new in the boxes when i bought them and i have not had a single bit of trouble out of either of them.
I have never had a broken spoke or a thrown chain with the rag joint set up and the chains on both of my bikes run true.
yes, i spent time working over the sprockets on both bikes to get them as straight as possible (both are 41 tooth sprockets) and to get them cenetered on the hubs.
all i'm saying is that the rag joint set up works for me.

 

[Big Red]

Rag Joint's.

That's how i did the sprocket on my 20" schwinn. It has straight laced 38 spoke rims with a coaster brake, and i have the sprocket right up against the spokes and one rubber on the inside. It's been that way for 4 years now and i have not had one problem with it. I am running a 2" wide cheater slick in the back, and a 415 chain. The chain does not rub the tire(but it's close) and my chain alignment is perfect...It's never thrown the chain.
I also have a custom made sprung chain tensioner on it that i made.
My o.c.c. sprocket is set up the same way and it's been fine for 3 years now.

Really Moto, Sprocket on the spokes? I'd be afraid to try that. When I get an alignment issue like that I make my own, very thin, rubber out of an old worn out tire or whatever. But I guess the proof is in the pudding. Four years and no problems. Is it luck? Is it mad skills? I'll vote for the latter.
Big Red.

 

[Irish John]

People won't really bother changing sprocket sizes on a bike. they just won't. It's not like "hey what a great day today - I think I'll change down up from 36T to 44T" because there is a lot more involved than just changing the sprocket. For every size of sprocket the chain length is different and working with a filthy chain isn't my idea of fun. Then there is the setting up of the chain tensioner. I had two identical rear wheels for my 4-stroke. A 48T for everyday and a 44T for fast motorway runs. Guess what? After one attempt I decided to stay with one sprocket size and that is what any sane person does. It's not just the sprocket its the chain and tensioner.