Street Ryderz
Well-Known Member
Alot of closely numbered jets like a #69 and a #70 for example will have the same dia but the oriface on the #69 will be a little longer to slow the flow rate through it!
Some are categorized only by flow ratings which seems to make the most sense.Alot of closely numbered jets like a #69 and a #70 for example will have the same dia but the oriface on the #69 will be a little longer to slow the flow rate through it!
I suppose if they didn't do it like this they would have to have one hellova assortment of bits.Alot of closely numbered jets like a #69 and a #70 for example will have the same dia but the oriface on the #69 will be a little longer to slow the flow rate through it!
Oh okay neat, that'll put me in the right ball park.I am at 5400 ft. and rejet NT's with a #68. At 9000 you should get a #66 and a #64 to find the sweet spot.
Yeah, I am beginning to realize that's probably the best way forward. I'll just take it slow and make small adjustments to keep the alignment happy. I also realized that, with my current configuration, tightening the bolts enough could actually begin to warp the sprocket itself.I think Crassius has the right answer. You have to file out the center hole on the sprocket so that it can settle into the wheel. Files are cheap.
Oh okay neat, that'll put me in the right ball park.
Yeah, I am beginning to realize that's probably the best way forward. I'll just take it slow and make small adjustments to keep the alignment happy. I also realized that, with my current configuration, tightening the bolts enough could actually begin to warp the sprocket itself.
I suppose I'll make a run by Harbor Freight and pick up one of those ultra cheap rotary tools. Not good quality, but I imagine I'll hardly ever use it anyway, lol. That'll be nice too because I need to grind the corner of the left pedal crank off as it currently runs into the exhaust. I actually sat down with a multitool file yesterday and started trying to grind off that corner, then realized how utterly long that would take.
Hay Jeff. Before you take things all apart could you show us a pic. of the sprocket at a 90 deg angle to the last pic. I would like to see a pic. of how the hole in the sprocket is aligning to the bearing housing on the hub.Oh okay neat, that'll put me in the right ball park.
Yeah, I am beginning to realize that's probably the best way forward. I'll just take it slow and make small adjustments to keep the alignment happy. I also realized that, with my current configuration, tightening the bolts enough could actually begin to warp the sprocket itself.
I suppose I'll make a run by Harbor Freight and pick up one of those ultra cheap rotary tools. Not good quality, but I imagine I'll hardly ever use it anyway, lol. That'll be nice too because I need to grind the corner of the left pedal crank off as it currently runs into the exhaust. I actually sat down with a multitool file yesterday and started trying to grind off that corner, then realized how utterly long that would take.
Ooooh that's a clever idea. I'll have to try that out!this allows you to turn the muffler away from the pedal
Sure!I would like to see a pic. of how the hole in the sprocket is aligning to the bearing housing on the hub.