Still looking for a round tank.

[jimraysr]

Rust

Remember, rust will continue as long as there is any whole metal for it to eat into. As we don't have access to remove all the rust from inside a tank, then it needs to be sealed off from moisture and air.

Last time I cleaned a tank, I used clean gravel first then went to the nuts and bolts.

Jim

 

[jimraysr]

Bung In Gasoline

Just got around to putting a Mini-Keg bung in some gasoline. Used my better digital caliper and made measurements of all areas. Will let it set for a week and then re-measure it

I was wondering how to hold the keg in the drill press to cut the holes, especially the 2.25" one for the deck fill fitting.

Came up with using a couple of my large "Vice-Grip" wood clamps end to end with a 2X4 between them and cleamp them in the drill press vice. May put some bungies around as well down to the VG clamps to stedy the top some. Don't want the hole saw to catch in the thin stainless steel.

Need also to find some sheet neoprene for a seal under the deck fill fitting. Doesn't look like there is any RTV type material suitable.

Noticed a "made in" etch in the side. Where else, Germany. So now that should up the worth from just a China / Japan / USA one. )

Jim

 

[DetonatorTuning]

did anyone every determine one way or the other as to if the cpvc and it's cement is fuel compatible ?

that is, doesn't break down and come apart or disolve and leach into the mixture.

thanks,
steve

 

[MotorbikeMike]

PVC Schedual 40 tank

Hi a customer of mine made one, and then painted it black, he used it for 6 months or so till he sold the bike back to me. The tank now lives in Tacoma WA. and as far as I know, still holds gas just fine.
Gary had glued the whole thing together with the PVC type glue.

Mike

 

[Esteban]

A couple of vintage round tanks form old Briggs engines, etc., have recently sold on the Bay for around $20. If not rusted badly inside, that is a deal !!

 

[jimraysr]

Mini-keg Rubber

Well, as I was afraid about the bungs in the Mini-Keg, they swells in gas. After two days in gasoline I would guess it was around 25% larger. Will measure it later (after a week) but obviously not good for the bike application.

Using fender washers and the ox-acy rig wt. brass rod. Been a couple of years for me to do any brazing, so not very impressed with my workmanship.

I intend to finish this one and then use my learning errors to make a presentable one out of the 2nd keg.

The flange of the deck fill pulled down fairly flat after I added 3 holes to the 3 OEM ones. A gasket cut from a bike tube should seal it. The PopNut threads all pulled out of the rivets when installing them, I exchanged the tool with Harbor Freight. The new HF Nut Riveter worked well with a new design nut. It was obvious the design difference between the two. Threads were longer and the barrel was thinner, so mushroomed inside before the threads pulled out. I backed the nuts with 1/4" washers. They are cad plated. I didn't want to wait until I could get stainless ones.

I have pictures, but will wait to show and tell after I get something I am willing to show in public.

And the song goes on. )

Jim

 

[sjackson]

You've convinced me that this nut riveter is something I need in my arsenal. Can't wait to see the finished product!

 

[jimraysr]

Scraped Mini-Keg

Red face, but facts are facts. I had to use too much heat for the brass rod (1/16") and the steel fender washer. The temper or forming stress in the stainless keg couldn't handle my craftsmanship. I had a couple of cracks outside of the weld area.

Now looking at a Coleman Fuel type can from the paint store. On its side, petcock in the bottom, deck fill in the top. All mechanical junctions, no solder. But it would soft solder if need be, unlike the stainless steel keg.

Guess I will give the other keg and bungs to the son-in-law who has an appreciation for beer that I never developed in 25 years. Now 26 years of non drinking and still can remember not liking the taste, but drank it anyway. 8O) =

Jim

 

[Partsboy22]

I'm new to this subject, and trying to learn, but I am wondering why some people who order GXH50QXA engines from me don't want the tank on them? Is it because you want to relocate the tank or some other reason?

 

[fetor56]

I'm new to this subject, and trying to learn, but I am wondering why some people who order GXH50QXA engines from me don't want the tank on them? Is it because you want to relocate the tank or some other reason?

My only logic for choosing a QXA then removing the tank was simple economics....it was more cost-effective to buy a QXA from overseas than buy a QHA(or QXA) in my own country.Whatever engine u choose(both fit optional components) you'll need to disconnect the governor:
http://www.motoredbikes.com/showthread.php?t=8310