M
mickal1025
Guest
WOW! That's an awfully busy chain. What I would recommend:
The return side of the chain (feeding from the bottom of the front sprocket); There should be little tension on that side. I'd replace a couple of idlers with that Teflon tubing used on many recumbents. The Hostel Shop carries it at a reasonable price: http://www.hostelshoppe.com/cgi-bin/readitem.pl?Accessory=1019853379
I'd buy the spring clips for it. They make it easy to keep the ends of the guard in the right general area, while allowing any movement necessary for shifting: http://www.hostelshoppe.com/cgi-bin/readitem.pl?Accessory=1159554927
I would try to avoid the acute angle you have running on the power side of the chain. I'd put that first idler as far back as possible. If you're worried about chain grease on your clothes, you can use some Teflon tubing on that run also. I would try to avoid having the tubing take any serious bends on the power side, but after a little more than a year, the tubing seems to be fine where my chain takes a gentle bend to get past my motor.
It's possible that one length of tubing (and 2 sets of springs) might cover both sides of the run. I'm not good with those silly logical measurement units that the rest of the world uses, and I don't remember how much I cut off to handle the run on my trike.
You might think about one of those chain tensioners made for single speed BMX bikes somewhere on the return run, just to make sure that the chain isn't getting too slack.
thanks Van
i ran the chain down to keep the chain at frame level to make it easier to step accross the frame(bad idea) and back to the peddle bracket assembly because i was to lazy to make another idler bracket. (another bad idea). so i'll try and reroute and see how aukward the step across and sit down is. thanks again for taking the time to look it over and think it through. i could also shorten the riser my bottom bracket is mounted to but dont want the peddles much below the frame.