suspended leaning trike

WOW! That's an awfully busy chain. What I would recommend:
The return side of the chain (feeding from the bottom of the front sprocket); There should be little tension on that side. I'd replace a couple of idlers with that Teflon tubing used on many recumbents. The Hostel Shop carries it at a reasonable price: http://www.hostelshoppe.com/cgi-bin/readitem.pl?Accessory=1019853379
I'd buy the spring clips for it. They make it easy to keep the ends of the guard in the right general area, while allowing any movement necessary for shifting: http://www.hostelshoppe.com/cgi-bin/readitem.pl?Accessory=1159554927

I would try to avoid the acute angle you have running on the power side of the chain. I'd put that first idler as far back as possible. If you're worried about chain grease on your clothes, you can use some Teflon tubing on that run also. I would try to avoid having the tubing take any serious bends on the power side, but after a little more than a year, the tubing seems to be fine where my chain takes a gentle bend to get past my motor.
It's possible that one length of tubing (and 2 sets of springs) might cover both sides of the run. I'm not good with those silly logical measurement units that the rest of the world uses, and I don't remember how much I cut off to handle the run on my trike.

You might think about one of those chain tensioners made for single speed BMX bikes somewhere on the return run, just to make sure that the chain isn't getting too slack.

thanks Van
i ran the chain down to keep the chain at frame level to make it easier to step accross the frame(bad idea) and back to the peddle bracket assembly because i was to lazy to make another idler bracket. (another bad idea). so i'll try and reroute and see how aukward the step across and sit down is. thanks again for taking the time to look it over and think it through. i could also shorten the riser my bottom bracket is mounted to but dont want the peddles much below the frame.
 
reroute of the chain seems way better after one short ride. thanks again Van. i was getting serious about the hybred idea. now that the chain is at a slant i'm thinking a chain guard with a built in dashboard-instrament panel would fit well on that slant. speedo, tach and volt gauge. maybe even a cup holder. i've got an old aluminum trailer fender just begging me to make it happen. on the other hand i better do fenders, windshield and then think about the redo of the leansteer some more first.
 

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ahh to heck with it. while i think over the rest of my changes i'm going to do the chain guard while the idea has me(or me it) whatever. here is the plan. cut to overall size, mill slots to ease bending, cut a couple of mounts from 1" sq. with tabs attached with pre drilled holes. possible slant cut at closest point to the seat to ease step across. leave gauge holes uncut till later. stop me if you see a flaw in my thinking.
 

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went with shallow grooves instead of slots to make the bends. pics show after cut and beating it into submission(bend). still need to make mounts but am pleased so far. last pic is with mounts welded and panel bolted in place.
 

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You might also want to look into pedal extensions. That would give you a bit more clearance between your shins and your chain fender. I've heard that some find they improve comfort for pedaling in a recumbent position. I don't really know. I've never tried them.
 
Van, the chain side peddle runs close to the crank but the opposite side has about 3/4 in. clearance. i will ride it some more and if uncomfortable your suggestion will come in very handy. thanks i have 5 new basement windows on order that should be in today or tomarrow. when they get here i may be absent from the forum for a few days, till i can get them put in.
 
no windows yet, so i put my old MB speedo on the trike until i can find moped parts that will work, then started making a back fender.
 

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found an old bracket to hold the front of the fender, transfered the hole pattern, drilled the fender, welded the bracket in place, then made the braces. cut 3/4 in wide strips from same trailer fender i used to make bike fender, bent 90 degree on ends, then drilled holes on bent ends offset 1/8 in. then drilled and tapped mounting holes by back axle. now just need to cut threaded rod to length. the fender seems sturdy and i can adjust it if needed.
 

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