The Blue,the Black and the Ugly (White)

[Torques]

I just discovered the kpr 112 which is brighter I believe. The have them at my local hardware store for 2.99. Should the wire be the same gauge as the white wire from the engine or can I use a smaller wire?

 

[arceeguy]

The "KPR" bulbs are filled with Krypton gas, so I guess the filament can be burned brighter. As long as it doesn't exceed about 3 watts, I guess it'll be fine. You can use the same gauge wire as the white wire (22 AWG, I think) since he light draws very little current.

The halogen HPR-55 might also be a good choice, but they are expensive. (over $6)

 

[duivendyk]

I started this thread to enlighten members about the electricals of HT engines and I had hoped to get better info from members about what the white wire output is really like electrically speaking,this would be very helpful in refining the design of a white wire 6V battery charging circuit, which would be easy to build.All it involved was taking some (to me) rather simple measurements.But I've been talking to deaf ears,most posts are just blue sky brainstorming exercises that are not likely to ever get of the ground.Dream on.

 

[BoltsMissing]

duivendyk

I started this thread to enlighten members about the electricals of HT engines and I had hoped to get better info from members about what the white wire output is really like electrically speaking,this would be very helpful in refining the design of a white wire 6V battery charging circuit, which would be easy to build.All it involved was taking some (to me) rather simple measurements.But I've been talking to deaf ears,most posts are just blue sky brainstorming exercises that are not likely to ever get of the ground.Dream on.

These are not pipe dreams, very real infact. Somewhere on this forum they have tried to use the White Wire, and it taxes the CDI, thats why the "logic" has evolved to a 2nd auxilary magneto.
It does become "dream on's" when ya talk about DVD motors etc to use as starter motors ?
Well, anyone with mechanical expirience ought to understand a 12v starter motor and a 12v heater blower are 2 differant type of electric motors. The word "robust" comes to mind.

BTW, I am in no hurry whatsoever to build my own version of a 2nd HT Auxilary Power Magneto, it's figured, it's a matter of having time to get it done, depending on priorities.

 

[Torques]

Yes sir, you are correct, more load = less volts - less load = more volts. The PR12 (6V .5A = 3W) bulb was "standard equipment" with the chrome bullet style dynamo headlights. If you get a battery powered one (with 2AA cells and a PR2 bulb), just replace the bulb and wire it to the white wire. If your genset has a tail light, I would wire in a couple of super bright red LED's (with suitable dropping resistors) as the incandescent bulb may overload the lighting coil and weaken your spark.

Can someone please end my confusion. I thought the white wire was AC, if so then how can you connect it to the same lighting system that is powered by 2 aa batteries. Isn't that DC? Would I be connected AC to a DC lighting system? I don't want to mess anything up. I may be missing something. I believe my white wire is grounded to the engine mounting bolt as my instructions indicated. The motor runs well and the kill switch works normally so I don't believe I have it wired wrong.

 

[arceeguy]

Can someone please end my confusion. I thought the white wire was AC, if so then how can you connect it to the same lighting system that is powered by 2 aa batteries. Isn't that DC? Would I be connected AC to a DC lighting system? I don't want to mess anything up. I may be missing something. I believe my white wire is grounded to the engine mounting bolt as my instructions indicated. The motor runs well and the kill switch works normally so I don't believe I have it wired wrong.

An incandescent light bulb doesn't care whether it is fed AC or DC, as long as the voltage is correct. I should have been more specific when mentioning the 2 cell headlights. You need to remove the battery holder and batteries, replace the 3V bulb with a 6V bulb and wire it to the lighting tap on the HT engine.

Hope this helps!

 

[Torques]

An incandescent light bulb doesn't care whether it is fed AC or DC, as long as the voltage is correct. I should have been more specific when mentioning the 2 cell headlights. You need to remove the battery holder and batteries, replace the 3V bulb with a 6V bulb and wire it to the lighting tap on the HT engine.

Hope this helps!

Thank you very much for your help. One other question though, my white white is grounded or attached to one of the engine mounting bolts as per my instructions said the white wire should be the ground. Can I just attach the power wire (that runs to my headlamp) to the white wire where it attaches to the mounting bolt? In other words, should I disconnect my white wire to the mounting bolt in order to run it to the headlamp. Thanks in advance.

 

[duivendyk]

Grounding the white wire is a NO NO,confusion still seems to be rampant.Read my the initial post on this thread!!!.It can be (mis)used as a halfassed kill wire.May work or may not,but if you don't manage to kill the engine with it or have it grounded accidentaly you've probably cooked part of the generator coil (open circuited). if so, the only way the engine will run is with the kill switch closed in order to have a path to the black wire (ground).The generator output would be somewhat reduced when this has happened, but the ignition could still work,but of course no output from it since it is now grounded.

 

[Torques]

Wow, I am really confused now, I hooked up the wiring as per a major builder/maintenance motorized bike person in Tucson. The blue and black wire from the engine are hooked up to the blue and black wire to the cdi, the white wire is grounded to the engine mount and the kill switch wire is spliced into the white wire. The bike operates normally and the kill switch works perfectly so I'm not sure what the confusion is. I still would like to hook up a wire to the white wire if that is the correct one to operate the stock light on the bike (with upgraded bulbs of course). I read the first post a number of times and am totally confused. I am sure you understand but I just need simple instructions. Here are Grubee instructions:

A) Mount CD ignition coil on bike frame, close enough to attach coil wire to spark plug. Mount as far away from exhaust pipe as possible to avoid heat damage to semiconductors in CDI module.

B) Attach CD ignition coil wires to same identical color coded wires coming from engine.

C) Install Engine Kill Switch on the handlebar or use kill switch on left hand grip. Only one is needed, but 2 are supplied. Attach kill switch wire to white wire coming from engine. This will ground ignition and stop the engine when the red button on the kill switch is activated.

D) Route all wires away from engine exhaust heat. Secure wires with a plastic tie straps.


This is identical to what I did except I did mount the white wire to the engine mount with the kill switch spliced into it. If this setup is correct, can I also connect the lighting wire at the same place where the kill switch is connected (white wire)?

 

[Torques]

How about this diagram, is it correct:

http://www.chrishill.myknet.org/bicycle_engine_kit_electrical.htm

If so, the guy is Tucson gave me completely mixed-up instructions as I even wrote them down.