Thinking outside the box. X-port on intake

[Jayraye39]

So an exhaust X-port is designed to reduce an dissipate heat from the cylinder. It effectivly lowers cylinder and exhaust tube temps via heat soak and dissipates that heat through its heat seek fins. It also allows allows for a longer header length. So my question is has anyone ever tried it on the intake side? The intake tube is made of aluminum also which seems to me just a likely to become heat soaked. That soak would cause the incoming charge to heat up much more than its natural ambient temp. Most of us know that colder air is filled with more oxagen allowing a better running motor. So could it lower intake tube temps and charge temps? Does this seem plausable? By adding the extra 1inch to the intake tube length seems like it would also give you better lowend power. So could it be a win/win situation? Well were all about to find out cause I got an extra Xport and it is port matched with 40mm spacing. Doesnt hurt to try. Gonna document my findings with a laser temp reader on a fully warm motor at idle. With and without the x port. Also gonna video the ride and speed with and without. Feel free to speak your thoughts on this subject. As im always trying to find ways to make these motors run better.

 

[GW's Motorized]

So an exhaust X-port is designed to reduce an dissipate heat from the cylinder. It effectivly lowers cylinder and exhaust tube temps via heat soak and dissipates that heat through its heat seek fins. It also allows allows for a longer header length. So my question is has anyone ever tried it on the intake side? The intake tube is made of aluminum also which seems to me just a likely to become heat soaked. That soak would cause the incoming charge to heat up much more than its natural ambient temp. Most of us know that colder air is filled with more oxagen allowing a better running motor. So could it lower intake tube temps and charge temps? Does this seem plausable? By adding the extra 1inch to the intake tube length seems like it would also give you better lowend power. So could it be a win/win situation? Well were all about to find out cause I got an extra Xport and it is port matched with 40mm spacing. Doesnt hurt to try. Gonna document my findings with a laser temp reader on a fully warm motor at idle. With and without the x port. Also gonna video the ride and speed with and without. Feel free to speak your thoughts on this subject. As im always trying to find ways to make these motors run better.View attachment 189847View attachment 189848

Sounds like it would work. Engines usually have a plastic spacer for this reason. The plastic spacers usually just don't travel heat.

 

[Jayraye39]

Sounds like it would work. Engines usually have a plastic spacer for this reason. The plastic spacers usually just don't travel heat.

Yes that is along my thoughts aswell. The only thing i see is that the charge will still have to pass through the hot xport before it arrives inside the case. It is possible for it to still heat the charge. But by how much? Could still lower temps im thinking because the charge is only passing a 1in span of high heat instead of traveling the entire length of a highly heated intake tube. I have good hopes for this experiment

 

[GW's Motorized]

Yes that is along my thoughts aswell. The only thing i see is that the charge will still have to pass through the hot xport before it arrives inside the case. It is possible for it to still heat the charge. But by how much? Could still lower temps im thinking because the charge is only passing a 1in span of high heat instead of traveling the entire length of a highly heated intake tube. I have good hopes for this experiment

I think the charge would be better than the solid intake tube.

 

[Risk Man]

We are using these on the modern Whizzers. Stock Aluminum and I milled a few out of phenolic (Bakealite) for more heat insulation.

second picture is rough cut out stage before finishing on the sander. The modern whizzer carbs run Hot and tend to "boil"the fuel in the bowl. The spacer provides enough insulation to eliminate that boiling over.

 

[Jayraye39]

We are using these on the modern Whizzers. Stock Aluminum and I milled a few out of phenolic (Bakealite) for more heat insulation.

second picture is rough cut out stage before finishing on the sander. The modern whizzer carbs run Hot and tend to "boil"the fuel in the bowl. The spacer provides enough insulation to eliminate that boiling over.

These china engines dont get nearly that hot. By the shear thickness of thoes spacers thoes carb temps are crazy hot. glad you chimed in cause atleast now i know that this idea is being used in another apllication. May not be to cool incoming air but used in a very similar mannor. Why do thoes carbs or cylinders get so hot?

 

[Risk Man]

@Wrench is the expert on Whizzer temps from a testing standpoint. At idle for 3 minutes temp can hit 400 degrees acording to his testing but at speed of 35mph and wind, it is acceptable at around 300-325:

"
I know what temp these NE-5 s run.
The only accurate way to take the cyl head temperature, is while riding the bike in the wind @ 35mph
Trying to take the temp going any faster than 35 mph holding that temp gun, made me feel like I might crash

My testing NE-5
After 10 miles on a 82*F day, going 35 MPH in the wind and holding the temp gun 1' away from the cyl head, pointing the laser at a flat spot on the cyl head by the spark plug The temps were 300*F to 325*F which is acceptable for a flat head 4 stroke.
Case temp was 150*F to 175*F
But while at Idle within 3 minutes the cly head temps spiked past 400*F. Good thing stoplights are not longer than 3 minutes.
I don't use fancy heat coatings in the combustion chamber either. (A rumor was started that Whizzers needed heat coatings)
The Rumor claimed that the temp of a Whizzer was over 500*F and a combustion chamber heat coatings reduced the temp to 300*F
If it makes ya feel better and have more confidence in your Whizzer than use heat coatings They can't hurt and just might do some good too. But I find them not necessary on the NE-5"

 

[GW's Motorized]

@Wrench is the expert on Whizzer temps from a testing standpoint. At idle for 3 minutes temp can hit 400 degrees acording to his testing but at speed of 35mph and wind, it is acceptable at around 300-325:

"
I know what temp these NE-5 s run.
The only accurate way to take the cyl head temperature, is while riding the bike in the wind @ 35mph
Trying to take the temp going any faster than 35 mph holding that temp gun, made me feel like I might crash

My testing NE-5
After 10 miles on a 82*F day, going 35 MPH in the wind and holding the temp gun 1' away from the cyl head, pointing the laser at a flat spot on the cyl head by the spark plug The temps were 300*F to 325*F which is acceptable for a flat head 4 stroke.
Case temp was 150*F to 175*F
But while at Idle within 3 minutes the cly head temps spiked past 400*F. Good thing stoplights are not longer than 3 minutes.
I don't use fancy heat coatings in the combustion chamber either. (A rumor was started that Whizzers needed heat coatings)
The Rumor claimed that the temp of a Whizzer was over 500*F and a combustion chamber heat coatings reduced the temp to 300*F
If it makes ya feel better and have more confidence in your Whizzer than use heat coatings They can't hurt and just might do some good too. But I find them not necessary on the NE-5"

I sat at a stop sign for more than 5 minutes yesterday. I could tell my bike was getting pretty hot,.so I shut it down and waited for traffic to go by

 

[ImpulseRocket]

Counter argument to trying to cool the intake tube. The fuel in the intake charge cools by evaporation, and the more fuel evap that happens before the combustion process, the more efficient the burn.

How great is the cooling effect? I've seen intakes frost up or condensate on the outside In cooler temps when the dew point was high enough.

In forced induction setups with a blow through carburetor box, the intake charge temps can easily drop over 100 degrees from the evaporation.

 

[Risk Man]

Counter argument to trying to cool the intake tube. The fuel in the intake charge cools by evaporation, and the more fuel evap that happens before the combustion process, the more efficient the burn.

How great is the cooling effect? I've seen intakes frost up or condensate on the outside In cooler temps when the dew point was high enough.

In forced induction setups with a blow through carburetor box, the intake charge temps can easily drop over 100 degrees from the evaporation.

As mentioned, on the Whizzer Flat Head 4 stroke, the issue was the carb bowl heating up and boiling over and fuel running out the drain tube. I have not experienced that since installing the extender.