Time for Upgrade: What Kit to Use?

[Tinker1980]

I hadn't thought about tire temperatures with a friction drive. Seems obvious though! In OK I would be running a MB in temps closer to 110 than 90 in the summer. (Although this summer is weird... it's august and 60 degrees outside.)

Tire flex would contribute to the heat buildup, and of course, to get your friction roller to work right, your tire must be deformed by the roller.

Speaking of rollers... a solid steel roller would get hot rolling on a tire for 16 miles. What about a hollow one, made from a pipe nipple and some round bits of 1/8" plate? What about aluminum? I think I have also seen pictures of wooden and urethane rollers. I have an engine I am going to be experimenting with for a friction drive, and it has a much lower RPM than the 25-50 cc engines normally used. I will as a result need to make a roller with a ~ 2 1/2" OD. How would lower RPM affect heat issues?

-Mark

 

[Esteban]

I never promote or suggest any one dealer over another. That way, I stay neutral, at least I think so. BUT, I will say that for your needs, a Japanese motor is ALL that I would suggest, whether you use it friction drive, chain, or belt. I like friction drive, for the simplicity of it, & the motor is behind me so I can hear better & don't smell gas, or fumes. Change out knobby tires for much smoother tires.

 

[moondog]

Hi Moondog. My comments were posted in general but particularly considering the context of the OPs question IE getting to work on daily basis:



This is all opinion here but I usually try not to chime in unless I've had direct experience on something. Started with a HT but jumped to the Japanese engines for reliability and was pleased with FDs 'cause they worked pretty well when I rode and I rode in good weather with short hops of a few miles.
That has changed for me now.

Never had much of an issue with tire wear that some (many) talk about. I think if a FD is set up right and with constant attention to tire inflation psi it's not a problem.....until the weather gets really hot.

A couple of months back I had the need to commute again, not 32 mi. RT like the OP but around 20 mi. RT. This has been a wet summer here to begin with and now it's gotten hot. As a dependable commuter bike the FDs just don't cut it for me with that distance. The steel rollers slip in wet weather and the steel rollers (and tire) get intolerably hot in the 90+ degree temps at that distance....to my observation in fact speeding tire wear (I'm using a 'sticky' slick) and creating excessive heat in the bearings and engine crank area.

A GEBE drive came my way at the right time and it has since proven commute worthy and I ride in ALL weather without concern. I still have the FDs (for awhile) but use them less and as I said more for short joyrides. I also think the belt drive would be far more suitable for distance touring than any FD ever could and that's something I hope to be doing later this fall.


BTW, I'd be really interested to see those plans, any way to get a peek?

Hi, Yes my roller does get hot.

I am in serious search mode. I can't find those plans. I bought them on eBay a couple of years ago. I might have loaned them out.

They removed the pedals and put a B+S type motor in the frame.

There was a foot operated lever that moved a roller that would make the belt tight when pushed down with the foot. (clutch)

They tack welded a rim on to the wheel and ran a belt around that rim.

They also had to cut and weld the leftside chainstay to move it out and make room for the double wide rim and belt.

I will send a P.M. when I find it and send you a copy.

Thanks

 

[5-7HEAVEN]

I live and die by friction drive.

This New Year's resolution was to commute to work, rain or shine. If it's raining or the roads are wet, I just suck it up and pedal to work on my FD bikes. Odds are that it'll clear up at day's end, so I can motor home.

If the roads are dry, I ride 5 miles over two moderate hills. If roads are wet, I pedal-assist 6 miles, of which 2.5 miles are dry and under the overpass.

I wouldn't recommend this method, unless your commute is short and you're a diehard FD fan.

I MIGHT build another bike with gears and sprockets soon, but only because I need more low end torque to conquer hills and headwinds.