Alright this is actually pretty f'n smart. I'm in the middle of an MS440 build and will most likely need to raise the front of the engine. Personally I feel safer with this method than a CNC mount, and having to spend the $30 for it.Like using long studs and what would normally be a rear mount.
I've noticed more than one build using the chain tensioner for clearance rather than tension.
I want to say the load would be carried by the spacers but I'm not sure. If the load is carried by the studs the problem is that the shear stresses will bend the studs as fasteners are only strong in tension.
The metal and mount were spare but the rear mount can be bought off ebay or bike berry for pretty cheap before shipping. Ebay usually has better rates, bike berry shipping is stupid expensive and crazy slow for something that would cost two stamps.
Like using long studs and what would normally be a rear mount.
I've noticed more than one build using the chain tensioner for clearance rather than tension.
Alright this is actually pretty f'n smart. I'm in the middle of an MS440 build and will most likely need to raise the front of the engine. Personally I feel safer with this method than a CNC mount, and having to spend the $30 for it.
YEP, the CNC front mount from CDHPower would be very much like the homemade one that is on my bike which also eliminated any vibration as well as providing chain clearance from the chainstays etc, etc,...There is also the extra advantage of the swivel mechanism that is built in mine as well as the CNC mount to get motor and everything else positioned perfectly which cannot be achieved with the other types of mount since the whole motor angle is totally dependent on the angle, or lack of adjustable angle, on a fixed, rigid design mount.The only issue I can see with that option is more vibration. You can buy cnc front mounts that do the same thing as that.
I can see the benefit in some builds using it, or needing it, especially depending on your frame geometry. I'm doing an MS440 build as we speak and due to the exhaust, I'm going to need to either shell out the money for a CNC mount, or use this trick that @cloakedvillain just shown us.YEP, the CNC front mount from CDHPower would be very much like the homemade one that is on my bike which also eliminated any vibration as well as providing chain clearance from the chainstays etc, etc,...There is also the extra advantage of the swivel mechanism that is built in mine as well as the CNC mount to get motor and everything else positioned perfectly which cannot be achieved with the other types of mount since the whole motor angle is totally dependent on the angle, or lack of adjustable angle, on a fixed, rigid design mount.
Mounting it this way also made it real easy to just eliminate a tensioner altogether...Runs and rides much smoother without all that chain drag type of noise as well.
https://www.amazon.com/CDHPOWER-Sil...ront+motor+mount+40mm&s=sporting-goods&sr=1-3
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You can buy the wider tube version of the rear mount for the front. My suggestion is to just make a pipe for it ot modify a Jog pipeI can see the benefit in some builds using it, or needing it, especially depending on your frame geometry. I'm doing an MS440 build as we speak and due to the exhaust, I'm going to need to either shell out the money for a CNC mount, or use this trick that @cloakedvillain just shown us.
I'm wondering though, how would his spacer trick work for frames that use the large downtube U-bolt mount?
Wider tube version? I'm unsure if I recall what you're referring to. I know when they switched from pre-G4 to G4 the mount space was increased, unless this is a modification.You can buy the wider tube version of the rear mount for the front. My suggestion is to just make a pipe for it ot modify a Jog pipe