Son Of A Bracket!!!
On 10/29/07 the GEBE lower mount strap (which I sometimes used to call the GEBE "main bracket", but which I now call the GEBE "death bracket") broke on my bike. There didn't seem to be a point in ordering a replacement part from GEBE. I was and still am convinced that neither of the stock GEBE brackets can stand up to the demands I am making on them: haul nearly 300 pounds of fat ranter, with bike, 20 miles a day, 5 days a week, up good sized hills and over some pretty broken asphalt, at an average trip speed of 19mph.
http://www.motoredbikes.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=3484&stc=1&d=1198217044
It took me 2 weeks to think about what I wanted a replacement to look like, and 2 more weeks for the machine shop to fabricate it for me. My bike was down for a month, and to say I was disgusted with the Golden Eagle Bicycle Engines company would be an understatement. I know that Pious in DelRay Beach has logged 12k on his lower mount strap, but I've BEEN to DelRay Beach and the biggest hill there is a speed bump in the parking lot of a Rite Aid. I have been in a pretty foul mood since my brocket braked which is why I have not posted much lately.
Because of the GEBE/kit design, my replacement, BracketZilla, has essentially the same dimensions as the original GEBE lower mount strap, with a few important differences.
1. Width. The shoddy GEBE Death Bracket is 1 1/8" wide. BracketZilla is 1.5" wide.
2. Metal Thickness: The GEBE Death Bracket is 5/32" thick. BracketZilla is made of 1/4" thick rolled steel. If that breaks I will go to 3/8". It was good and rusty when I got it and so I painted it with a chemical that reacts with rust and forms a tough protective coat. I like the way it looks and I never have to worry about it rusting. Another thing I like about it is that it's a very strong piece of steel, but not brittle, so it should hold up to the shock and vibration.
http://www.motoredbikes.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=3485&stc=1&d=1198217069
3. Mounting Holes. The original GEBE Death Bracket used 1/4" holes in the top to connect to the L-shaped "clutch bracket". First I had the machine shop drill M8 holes in the top of BracketZilla, and then drill out and tap M8 holes in the GEBE clutch bracket.
http://www.motoredbikes.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=3486&stc=1&d=1198217069
One of the original bolts that attaches the lower mount strap to the "clutch bracket" is a button-head 1/4 20. Okay, GEBE decided that 1/4 20 bolts were big enough to hold the engine onto the lower mount strap. But what blows my brain pan is that they used button head bolts, and then sanded one of the button heads down to nearly nothing, presumably to get clearance between the bolt head and the clutch housing. There is so much wrong with this that it's difficult to know where to begin, but I'm gonna take a shot at it:
1. I am using M8 hex head bolts to attach the engine to the lower mount strap, and as the pictures show there is PLENTY of room between the top of the bolt and the clutch housing, so that the bolt doesn't NEED to be sanded down.
2. Even if you decided to sand down the bolt head for clearance, why in the name of the holy ******* virgin would you use a button cap bolt??? When the original GEBE lower mount strap broke, their 1/4 20 bolt sheared off at the bottom of the clutch bracket. I tried to remove it with a bolt extractor, but that didn't work. Do you have any idea how ******* hard it is to remove a button cap bolt where the head has been sanded down to about 3/32" of an inch? Do you? Huh? Do you??? Well let me tell you, it's ******* hard. Finally I was able cut "sides" on the bolt head using a jewelers saw and twist it out with locking pliers. That was a fun couple of evenings.
After I got BracketZilla from the machine shop, it went on the bike with a small amount of kanoodling, and I've had the bike up and running for about 2 1/2 weeks now.
By way of ending, I'd like to say that one of the biggest mistakes I made in this whole project was not putting a cyclo-computer on the bike earlier. I've just gotten one on the bike while BracketZilla was in progress and when I put the next bike together it will be the first thing I do. A decent cyclo-computer is one of the handiest tools ever for performance testing and diagnostics on your motored bike and I'd encourage every new builder to get one.
Sincerely yers,
Mahasasamatman, fat ranter.
http://www.motoredbikes.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=3487&stc=1&d=1198217069
Decal is done. T-shirts are coming.